Hawk Design Advice?

[David Mary]

Based on a design sent to me by the customer, adapted for .140" MagnaCut. 4" blade, 15.5" handle from base of hawk head to end of handle. Will be heat treated on the softer side, and over .020" behind the edge. I want it to be fast and I want it to be strong enough. I'm not educated in this stuff (physics, engineering, etc), and I was confident at first, but my eyes tell me something is still off. What is it? The skeletonization near the head of the hawk? Or am I good to go?

 

[David Mary]

Or maybe like this?



I feel like that is the spot that will experience the most torque, but also seems like a very important spot to save some weight.

 

[000Robert]

Maybe the edge needs to be turned up a few degrees?

 

[David Mary]

Maybe the edge needs to be turned up a few degrees?

How's this?

 

[000Robert]

How's this?

View attachment 1918108

Maybe. How does it look to you?

 

[David Mary]

It's my current version.

 

[David Mary]

Ah but a fool I would be! Hold on

 

[000Robert]

It looks pretty good to me but I'm not really qualified to say much about it.

 

[000Robert]

I don't like the second hole from the top being as large as it is but I'm not sure that it really matters much.

 

[David Mary]

Well I just got to thinking that if he's heavy handing it that long slot at the base is going to be a stress riser too. I figured light and fast hawk he's going to hold it choked up, but maybe not always, and if he hits say a wood door, then stress will build up right there big time.

 

[David Mary]

Hits like that over time, probably, or a monster hit not really suited to the design.... Like hitting a cement wall. So maybe I'm overthinking it?

 

[000Robert]

Would fullers going up the handle instead of holes and slots make the Hawk lighter and also stronger?

 

[David Mary]

Now I'm thinking the whole handle is too wide....... hidden tang?

 

[David Mary]

Would fullers going up the handle instead of holes and slots make the Hawk lighter and also stronger?

Yes, but I think I'm still a ways off from a proper process for fullers.

 

[000Robert]

Yes, but I think I'm still a ways off from a proper process for fullers.

You can't use a piece of steel bar stock and hammer the fullers in?

 

[Tony Mont]

I personally like the last design. My suggestion would be to make a template out of mdf/plywood to get a better idea of ho it feels in hand. Also, I believe with a couple of practice runs on a scrap piece, fullering the tang wouldn be a breeze.

 

[David Mary]

You haven't seen my shop then.

 

[David Mary]

I know I have room to set up the equipment to do all that. But it's going to take me time.

 

[David Mary]

Okay. I know it's a little funny looking, but there will be textured suretouch hiding it all, secured by the four 1/4" pin holes.

 

[David Mary]

And yes, I can probably do fullers as well, since they'll be hidden. I'm just not good at nice looking fullers. The truth comes out.