Heard a snap on a blade????

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Jun 16, 2008
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I had a few knives HTed and had them back a week ago. I worked on one with out testing the hardness first. Anyways I was done with it and I gave it a bending test with my hands. It didn't bend of course, but I applied a good amount of pressure from my girly arms and I heard a snapping or light popping sound. I went to get my bldes tested with a knifemaker friend of mine and it turns out one blade was at rc 61 almost 62. The others were 58. Maybe the one I didn't test was too hard and needed an additional temper. What could that noise have been? I looked at it with a magnifying glass and found no visible fractures. Needles to say I won't be using that company for HT anymore. Thats the second ime I got blades back that were not where I wanted them to be. Last time they were at RC57. The steel used is ATS34 by the way.

-frank
 
You sure the popping you heard wasn't your spindly, girly muscles and tendons snapping under the strain? You wirey South Texicans. :D





Girly arms



:p
--nathan
 
Ya know it might be the case. I didn't realize I screamed like a girl until my wife told me. Lol.
 
If there is a crack in the blade it wont have the same note as the rest.Try hanging them from a string or wire and check the pitch...dont ask me what note I'm tone deaf:rolleyes:
* also a good check if your buying a girder/springer front end:thumbup:
 
Can you tell me who it was in an email? Im gonna send a blade out to be heat treated when Im finished but I wanna be sure its not them.
 
Since there is no way to hear the sound , I can't say what it was. It could have been your hands/wrist popping, or something else.

I'm guessing it is a hidden tang knife, most likely with a pin or rivet.

One possibility that can occur is the blade breaking in the handle. This happens most often just the other side of the guard. The stress of the bend is highest there.When this type of break happens, you can usually either wiggle the blade, pull it out, or it falls off in your hand. The second place it occurs is at the first pin/rivet. This is more likely if the pin hole takes up too much of the tang, leaving a weak area. This type of break often does not cause the knife to come apart, as the epoxy holds the shortened tang firmly in place. In such a case, the knife may perform fine....or the blade may come loose after a period of use.

When creating and finishing blades, always consider where the stresses will go under load, as well as where stress risers can form in HT. Some places where problems can lurk are:
Thin areas within 1" of the guard/ricasso are big problems ( as with a very deep finger choil or deeply cut back blades).
Sharp angles, as would be made by cutting the tang on a band saw, at the ricasso are blade killers.
Tangs that are too thin or narrow, and have holes drilled to close to the edge.
Holes with the edges not chamfered.
Deep filework, saw teeth,cute cuts and notches in the blade, etc. Any acute angle is a starting place for a crack.

Most of the above can be made with no problem if all sharp angles are rounded.
One final comment about blade design. The point of highest stress is going to be the ricasso/guard junction. This is the fulcrum of all leverage ( intended and unintended) applied to the blade, and should theoretically be the thickest and widest place on the blade. In practice it is often not the thickest and widest place, so pay extra attention to making sure there is enough metal there, and that you have added no other problems for the steel to deal with.

There is more than just dumb luck and bad luck involved in all this. Metallurgy is involved.
Since we have made the blade from a hardened ,and thus less ductile, steel, we have greatly lowered the plasticity of the steel. We need to design in the most strength for the shape we have made.
It is a property of metals that they be much less plastic if there is a notch. A 1" cylinder of steel with a 1/4" deep notch ground around it will break cleanly at the notch when it is stretched or bent. It will,however, stretch or bend far more if the same amount of reduction in diameter is made by a gradual reduction to 1/2" thick. This is called the notch effect. Sharp corners, notches, or sudden reductions in thickness should be avoided as much as possible.

Stacy
 
Frank, cooked right and froze there should be no problem at all with Ats-34
at 61-62 Rc, and if its capable of the higher Rc with no problems why go 5 points
Lower? It would seem you could use a different steel if thats the case.
Ken.
 
Frank, cooked right and froze there should be no problem at all with Ats-34
at 61-62 Rc, and if its capable of the higher Rc with no problems why go 5 points
Lower? It would seem you could use a different steel if thats the case.
Ken.

I heard that somewhere. If it is good then I really can't complain, but I asked for 59-60 because I have had good results with that. I am new to this craft and am still learning. Thanks for the feedback.
 
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