hello all. I had a question about the Temper of 1095 steel. the heat treat went well. but I tempered in the oven at 350 degrees for an hour. after 2 cycles of 1 hour I noticed that the edge of the blade failed the brass rod test. it bent horribly and stayed bent. I'm going to try the temperate 250 degrees. does anyone have any suggestions on how to improve this this time? the blade is 3.5" and handle is 4. the thickness is 3/32.
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heat treat 1095
- Thread starter Sirmasta
- Start date
SBuzek
Basic Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2006
- Messages
- 3,607
If the edge bent and stay bent tne H/T did not go well.I usually temper 1095 at 425-450 for 2 hours twice.
The only thing to do now is normalize and re H/T.
Tell us your process,step by step so we can help you figure out where it went wrong.Also how thick is your edge during H/T.
Stan
The only thing to do now is normalize and re H/T.
Tell us your process,step by step so we can help you figure out where it went wrong.Also how thick is your edge during H/T.
Stan
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2006
- Messages
- 1,363
Here is some info I go by Given to me by Stacy."Bladsmth"
Dave,
1095 HT specs:
Forge at 2100F, never below 1500F
Anneal after forging and before grinding -
Full anneal - soak at 1475 for 10 minutes and then cool at 50F per hour to 1200F and then air cool to room temp.
Spheroidal anneal ( best choice) - heat to 1200F and hold or a few minutes. Cool in air to room temp.
Grain refinement and spheroidal anneal -
Heat to 1450F , soak for 5 minutes, quench in oil.
Heat to 1350F and quench in oil.
Heat to 1200F and air cool to room temp.
Hardening -
Austenitize at 1475F for 10 minutes
Quench in fast oil or brine ( brine is severe and may cause warp and cracks)
Straighten any warps before the metal reaches 400F.
Temper at 450F , 2 hours, repeat, Rc= approx. 60-61
Stacy E.Apelt
I Hope this helps you, it has helped me.
Dave
Dave,
1095 HT specs:
Forge at 2100F, never below 1500F
Anneal after forging and before grinding -
Full anneal - soak at 1475 for 10 minutes and then cool at 50F per hour to 1200F and then air cool to room temp.
Spheroidal anneal ( best choice) - heat to 1200F and hold or a few minutes. Cool in air to room temp.
Grain refinement and spheroidal anneal -
Heat to 1450F , soak for 5 minutes, quench in oil.
Heat to 1350F and quench in oil.
Heat to 1200F and air cool to room temp.
Hardening -
Austenitize at 1475F for 10 minutes
Quench in fast oil or brine ( brine is severe and may cause warp and cracks)
Straighten any warps before the metal reaches 400F.
Temper at 450F , 2 hours, repeat, Rc= approx. 60-61
Stacy E.Apelt
I Hope this helps you, it has helped me.
Dave
I used a freon tank forge and let the blade soak for 7 min. why 7? Sounded good i guess. i immed. quenched in veg oil that was pre warmed to 115 degrees. i did the edge quench moving the blade forward and back. i used a file to test and the file skid across the blade nicely. the oven is a digital kitchen oven that has always worked well cooking. pisses my wife off but until i can get a toaster oven shell live with it for now.
I just realized after explaing the steps that I
I always leave a thicker edge to prevent warping
the knife has a lot of scale on it and when i take
it to the belt grinder the thin the edge, i may be
ruining the temper by overheating. i use a bucket
of water but here lately ive been using gloves.
Prob. be better if i went back to my bare hands to
better judge the temp. i cant beleive i didnt think
of this before i posted the thread.
I always leave a thicker edge to prevent warping
the knife has a lot of scale on it and when i take
it to the belt grinder the thin the edge, i may be
ruining the temper by overheating. i use a bucket
of water but here lately ive been using gloves.
Prob. be better if i went back to my bare hands to
better judge the temp. i cant beleive i didnt think
of this before i posted the thread.
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2006
- Messages
- 1,363
I leave the edge thickness around the thickness of a quarter to a dime. Bare hands is the way to go. If you see Any color come on the blade it is getting to hot. Blue color means you need to re heattreat it again.
My wife also complained about me using her kitchen oven before I got a kiln. The left over oil residue would smell up her oven. So now If I have to use her's because mine is busy I give the blades a good degreasing first.
Got to keep the ladies happy!!!
Dave
My wife also complained about me using her kitchen oven before I got a kiln. The left over oil residue would smell up her oven. So now If I have to use her's because mine is busy I give the blades a good degreasing first.
Got to keep the ladies happy!!!
Dave