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Heat Treat Oven 101-
- Thread starter panch0
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- Oct 30, 2002
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Verify this for me. In the pics, it looks as though the coil is not connected to anything at all. Is this right? If so, and the TC is actually connected to the SSR, it's very much incorrect.
--nathan
--nathan
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- Oct 30, 2002
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Looking at the TC from TKS, you may have something similar, but without the wiring terminal. Look in the bottom left corner of the oven and see if that's not it.
BTW, a TC is just a special wire joined at the sensing end. The white round blocks you see in the TKS picture are just ceramic insulators.
--nathan
BTW, a TC is just a special wire joined at the sensing end. The white round blocks you see in the TKS picture are just ceramic insulators.
--nathan
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- Jun 16, 2008
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Yes thats what is on there. a folded wire covered with insulated round rocks.
is this the k type wire you meant? http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=87
is this the k type wire you meant? http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=87
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Then that should be connected to your PID where the TC inputs are (9 and 10). I don't know how to tell you to determine the +/-.
--nathan
--nathan
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- Oct 30, 2002
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That's actually a TC with wire attached. Let me post the link...
THIS thermocouple is typical in furnace/forge/kiln use. See the coiled yellow wire above it in the picture? You can specify the length you want when ordering the TC, so maybe you could email Auber and ask for just the terminal block and connecting wire. Or order the entire TC/wire/terminal package and have an extra on hand
. Heck, it's only $23.
Using dis-similar wires/splices can add error into your temp reading.
--nathan
THIS thermocouple is typical in furnace/forge/kiln use. See the coiled yellow wire above it in the picture? You can specify the length you want when ordering the TC, so maybe you could email Auber and ask for just the terminal block and connecting wire. Or order the entire TC/wire/terminal package and have an extra on hand
. Heck, it's only $23. Using dis-similar wires/splices can add error into your temp reading.
--nathan
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- Oct 30, 2002
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Glad I can help!
--nathan
--nathan
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http://www.evenheat-kiln.com/technical/glasspecs/glasspecs.htm
Model Width Length Depth Temp. Feet Volts Amps Watts Receptacle Weight
Copper 10" 6.5" 9" 2200°F .340 120V 12A 1440W 5-15R 54lb.
The specs for your kiln...
You can buy the element based on this, Even Heat, or generic...
element length is part of that, so I would buy my first element OEM, and then measure it for any generic replacements later.
120 Volts AC, 1440Watts, a "normal" 15 amp plug
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2008
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Are there special kind of connectors for the wires or are ones like in the pictures ok?
I have the new coil, interrupt switch, dc SSR, thermo couple, high temp wires and ktype wires. Now I will see if I can get her all wired up next week.
I have the new coil, interrupt switch, dc SSR, thermo couple, high temp wires and ktype wires. Now I will see if I can get her all wired up next week.
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- Oct 30, 2002
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Which wires, Panch? Try to avoid any uncecessary conncetions in the thermocouple pathway. I just used the connector block that came with my TC and then the K-type wire directly to the controller.
As for the elements, I used threaded stainless bolts through the forge body. I drilled a hole by the head of the bolt and passed the kanthal wire through the hole and then tightened a stainless nut agaist it. That is done inside the oven. The bolt then extends through the body of the oven where I connected the high temp wire. Make sure you have plenty of clearance between the metal oven body and the bolts. If your elements touch or arc to the body, your oven body will be live which is a bad thing
.
As for all other connections, you can use whatever you have on hand.
--nathan
As for the elements, I used threaded stainless bolts through the forge body. I drilled a hole by the head of the bolt and passed the kanthal wire through the hole and then tightened a stainless nut agaist it. That is done inside the oven. The bolt then extends through the body of the oven where I connected the high temp wire. Make sure you have plenty of clearance between the metal oven body and the bolts. If your elements touch or arc to the body, your oven body will be live which is a bad thing
.As for all other connections, you can use whatever you have on hand.
--nathan
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- Oct 22, 2007
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- 123
Hey Frank,
I checked the specs on the switch case and see that it's made of thermoplastic and only good for up to 300 F. It would be a good idea to check the temperature where you plan to mount the switch on the oven beforehand. Finding a new switch that melted stopping the heat treat cycle would be a bummer.
Hey Nathan, I just had a random thought. You use through bolts and attach the elements inside the chamber. How much heat gets transferred through the bolt to the outside, I assume you have the bolts attached to a piece of G11 to keep it off the frame? I am in the middle of my build also and am concerned with the exposed bolt getting hot enough to char the G11.
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Gixxer, you are correct that the bolts get quite hot. I use 5" carriage bolts, and the outside end never gets to irridescent, but you need to keep it clear of flammible stuff. I have mine mounted to a slab of micarta, and I haven't had trouble. Do use high temp wire because the connection wire gets hot enough with conducted heat energy to melt insulation on regular wire.
--Nathan
--Nathan