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Im building a heat treat oven to run off 110v. Is there any electrical savvy people out there that can review this for me.
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Heat Treat Oven Build
- Thread starter Owl Knives
- Start date
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Basic circuit looks OK. There are some questions/suggestions:
You have a 15 amp breaker feeding a "MAIN" switch rated at 10 amps. Use a switch rated at the same or more than the breaker.
What is the coil going to draw? ( watts/ohms )
Why two fans? ( not a problem, just a question)
A red indicator light on the output from the SSR to the coil is nice. It tells you the coil is being energized and the PID is working. Connect it to ground like the green one.
Use a heavy TC, 8-10 gauge.
You have a 15 amp breaker feeding a "MAIN" switch rated at 10 amps. Use a switch rated at the same or more than the breaker.
What is the coil going to draw? ( watts/ohms )
Why two fans? ( not a problem, just a question)
A red indicator light on the output from the SSR to the coil is nice. It tells you the coil is being energized and the PID is working. Connect it to ground like the green one.
Use a heavy TC, 8-10 gauge.
Looks like your fans will be turning off whenever the relay is off. At steady state your coils probably won't be on very much so the fans won't really be on. For my oven I used a 110VAC fan that is only switched off by the main switch.
How large is your enclosure? My oven draws around 12A and the cavity is 4.5" x 4.5" x 15". It takes about 75 minutes to get up to 1500F. I'm a hobbyist so that's ok, but more power will come in handy if time costs you money.
How large is your enclosure? My oven draws around 12A and the cavity is 4.5" x 4.5" x 15". It takes about 75 minutes to get up to 1500F. I'm a hobbyist so that's ok, but more power will come in handy if time costs you money.
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Im getting my information from here https://www.youtube.com/user/Librislt/videos
-Added the indicator light and removed a fan.
-As for the kill switch, I thought when the voltage decreased the acceptable amperage increased? because I see a lot of switches with different amp rating depending on whether its running 110 or 240v.
-Power density at 0.8 = 2168W ... wouldn't that need a 20A circuit? ...OR... 15A: 1500W = 0.63 Pd ... but Im worried that it will take too long to heat up.
-Added the indicator light and removed a fan.
-As for the kill switch, I thought when the voltage decreased the acceptable amperage increased? because I see a lot of switches with different amp rating depending on whether its running 110 or 240v.
-Power density at 0.8 = 2168W ... wouldn't that need a 20A circuit? ...OR... 15A: 1500W = 0.63 Pd ... but Im worried that it will take too long to heat up.
No, if something says 1000V and 1A that doesn't mean you can necessarily put 2A at 500V.
I run mine off a 20A circuit just in case. Try to find a coil combination that will draw 15 or 16 amps. That will be the fastest oven you can do on a dedicated 20A circuit.
I run mine off a 20A circuit just in case. Try to find a coil combination that will draw 15 or 16 amps. That will be the fastest oven you can do on a dedicated 20A circuit.
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the libris guy is ok but dcknives has better information (dcknives.blogspot.ca).
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Zhyla - Good catch on the fans being in the SSR circuit.
The fan should run all the time the oven is turned on. It cools the SSR. Use one rated 120VAC and tap its power right after the green light.
As said, all switches and components are rated for a specific current value. I usually go about 50% over the expected draw. For a circuit that will draw 15 amps, use a 20-30 amp switch.
The fan should run all the time the oven is turned on. It cools the SSR. Use one rated 120VAC and tap its power right after the green light.
As said, all switches and components are rated for a specific current value. I usually go about 50% over the expected draw. For a circuit that will draw 15 amps, use a 20-30 amp switch.