Heat Treat oven problems

Joined
Feb 21, 2014
Messages
266
So I have been attempting to wire up a heat treat oven and have run into a problem. I have everything supposedly wired up correctly according to the wiring diagram. I have lights to the ssr's and but no power is being transferred to the elements at all. I don't know if i accidentally blew the ssr's or what. But figured if I did blow them the light wouldn't turn on. Any help from anyone would be great I am beyond frustrated at the moment.

diagram I am working from

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...eat-Treat-Oven-Wiring-Schematic-Future-Sticky
 
Thats what I will have to do next. I had a meter that I didnt use for ever was a HF deal totally dead and have to get a new one(not from HF)
 
Meter batteries will run down, even if not being used.

Does the oven's display give any indication of an error code..?
 
i changed the battery and the fuse was fine and it still wouldnt work. I just think it was cause it was from harbor frieght.
 
Start with the obvious places.
Is the door switch wired right and closed?
Is the SSR on/off switch closed?
Is the SSR light wired to the right terminals?
Is the PID turned on and in the RUN mode?
Are the coils properly wired?
Is this system running on 220VAC? ( plans are for US 220V wiring)



Using the meter, check for DC voltage between SSR terminal 3 and 4 on both SSRs. If there is voltage there, the problem is in the AC circuit. If not, check for DC at PID 7&8.
If the DC checks out at the SSRs, check for 220VAC between the two SSR terminal #1s. If there is no AC between them, then it is in the coils.
 
This is wired for 220vac

Here are my readings:

ssr on terminal 3-4 tested on DC. 10
pid 7-8 tested on DC. 10

I got 244 on both ssr terminal 1

terminal 1 and 2 i got 122

power going into the box 244
It is on run mode.

Now the confusing part you mentioned a ssr on/off switch when I didnt see one so how do you know if its on or off?

Am I missing something?
 
Kieran, are you sure you don't have a normally closed relay? If your not sure, and you want to check it, disconnect the 10 VDC to points 3 and 4. If it is a normally closed relay it will shift when the control voltage is disconnected.

Also if you want to check SSR operation, disconnect the 10 gage and high temp wires and connect your ohm meter to points 1 and 2. Turn your control voltage on and off, either by disconnecting one of the wires on 3 or 4, or just open the door. Your meter should read zero when control voltage is energized and should read open when control voltage is de-energized.
 
244VAC read from SSR1 terminal #1 to SSR2 terminal #1 indicates all is working right.
I know it sounds dumb, but the coils are connected in the middle...aren't they?

The SSR on/off switch is the toggle switch in series with the door switch. Turning it off will shut down the coils.
 
244VAC read from SSR1 terminal #1 to SSR2 terminal #1 indicates all is working right.
I know it sounds dumb, but the coils are connected in the middle...aren't they?

The SSR on/off switch is the toggle switch in series with the door switch. Turning it off will shut down the coils.

In a effort to try and figure out what is wrong I temporarily deleted the ssr switch and have it wired direct to the pid.

I have the element ends wrapped around a stainless bolt running through the back for high temp wire one and two. I have them then wind around in the box where they meet in the back and I have them wrapped together. If that is what you mean.
 
This is wired for 220vac

Here are my readings:
I got 244 on both ssr terminal 1
terminal 1 and 2 i got 122

Kieran when you read these voltages, were you reading them to ground?

I was measuring terminal one which is wired to power and terminal two which is wired to the elements. which I assume is one half of the 220v legs which is why its half of the 244 reading I got.
 
Any chance you could snap a couple pictures of your set up using the macro setting on your digatal camera?
 
I know it looks a mess I hope you guys can decipher it.

Ok here the ssr's are wired up.
2014-04-27175333_zps4cf3043e.jpg
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Pid wired up shot + and - for the ssr are in the correct slot.
2014-04-27175435_zpsa8281e8a.jpg
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switch with lines to the ssr and powering the pid. Incoming power lines on the top and ssr's one the bottom along with pid power.
2014-04-27175403_zpsf1c8f1e4.jpg
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high temp wires in back.
2014-04-27180528_zpsf7549b4a.jpg
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elements wired within
2014-04-27180634_zps704126a3.jpg
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Hope this helps and again sorry for the mess I know it itsnt how you hook it up permanent but at this point with so much switching around it was just easier to set it up as it.
 
Last edited:
2014-04-27175403_zpsf1c8f1e4.jpg


Hope this helps and again sorry for the mess I know it itsnt how you hook it up permanent but at this point with so much switching around it was just easier to set it up as it.


:eek:


...balls...
 
I will just assume I F***** up big time.
]

Naw man, I'm just saying that some people have different levels of risk aversion. And you must carry your balls around in a wheel barrel. That's all.

Sorry, I didn't mean to derail.
 
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