Heat treat question

Don't want to upstage TTTis, but you must remove the titaniun stud, gets too hot in there.
I remove the stud on all of mine to reprofile the edge, then reinstall the same stud, not difficult.
 
When CRK removes the stud, I believe that they toss it as it gets damaged. Also, I would imagine a double lug is a lot more challenging to remove.
 
Quick note before I get out of town for the day.

I did talk to the material science department about how closely you can test the heat treat. First, the equipment used is pretty important. They do have a Wilson hardness tester..I used to own one of these myself, but used it exactly 2x and then sold it off...Anyway, I digress. Testing hardness on this machine will get you ~the graduation of the machine, which is 1 point of hardness. The calibration squares are good for 1-2pts of hardness depending on the material being calibrated. (multiple hits and average are probably better for an average). There are not really any fractional graduations on this machine..It's only a guess between two marks.

Someone analogous to a post I seen here several years ago showing the "accuracy" of CRK parts with a pair of digital calipers and the 4th decimal place in the pic. The calipers, even by the manufacturer (Mitutoyo), are only accurate to within .002in. Subject to user error as well as the measuring tool.

There are two other machines that they use that they can get get far better numbers. As with anything, you have to pay to play..Seem to remember the measuring tool (impingement tool) being in the microns on one machine and I think 100 nanometers on the other. Pretty cool working through a doorway to a multi-million dollar lab :)

Beit for bragging rights or even the placebo effect, you spend your money where you want. It's all about preferences..I have thousands wrapped up into knives and tools myself. Using titanium on knives isn't really necessary..It's simply cool. The same can be said for carbon fiber as well as some of the other modern metals, plastics..etc.

In the end, I am just as guilty as they are all but knives...
 
Don't want to upstage TTTis, but you must remove the titaniun stud, gets too hot in there.
I remove the stud on all of mine to reprofile the edge, then reinstall the same stud, not difficult.

I assume it's pressed out. How do you do it?
 
It's 2015, and the heat treat thing is still going?

Nothing wrong with wanting to make something perform better. The Rc scale is not like a 1-10 scale where each number is just one step up. It is more like the Richter magnitude scale (not identical though) that is used for earthquakes. There is a difference between 59 and 61.

Publication_hardness.jpg


Summary & Conclusion

Hardness is an important factor when choosing a material for a special purpose. Fifteen specimens of materials were chosen for hardness testing in this lab. The samples were designed on an approximate comparison of hardness scales chart to show the relationship between the hardness values of the samples. A table of comparisons was developed to show the hardness values of the samples on the different scales.

In this lab, it was found that Rockwell B is being use for soft steels and nonferrous metals. On the other hand, Rockwell C can be applied to hardened metals. The shore scleroscope measures hardness in terms of the elasticity of the material. Shore D measures the penetration of a steel penetrator with a static spring load applied

The hardest material sampled was Bearing Race with a hardness rating of 60.5 Rc. The softest material tested was Polyvinylcloride (PVC) with a hardness rating of 76 Sd.

http://lennon.csufresno.edu/~mhk03/hardness_1.htm
 
This is interesting. Is the thumb stud removed prior to heat treat? If so, does Paul Bos provide the service? If not, what does the thumb stud look like after? I'm assuming the blue changes color.

You can remove the stud with a pin punch and hammer, that's what I do. I never put the stud back in because I use different studs on my Sebenza. PaulBHT will not remove the stud for you, they will harden the blade with the stud in. The stud will change to a yellowish color if you don't take it out. If you get it done with the stud in, the stud will fall out and you can put it back in with some jb weld or something like that.
 
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