Heat treating 5160 questions and problems?

[flatgrinder]

I just heat treated a bowie in 5160.

Heated it to non-magnetic, let it soak for 5 minutes and quenched in transmission fluid. I tested it with a file and it skates across leaving light surface scratches, but doesn't dig in. Is this okay?

The reason I'm asking is that with O1 and 1095, the file doesn't even leave scratches or anything, the steel seems to get as hard as glass. Perhaps it's the higher carbon content that makes O1 and 1095 harder? Is 5160 softer ... which explains the better toughness?

Also, how do you drill the tang after the blade has been fully quenched? Do you heat it with a propane torch until it turns blue and then drill it?

Any ideas would be appreciated! Especially from the guys who use 5160 frequently. Thanks! :thumbup:

 

[steelshaper]

I am no Mete or Kevin Cashen but I use 5160 alot and I always get a little scratching from the file mostly its the scale. The O-1 I have used does get harder for sure. I like 5160 because it is very forgiving. I have had only one blade crack out of at least a hundred blades I have made with it. O-1 on the other hand I have had crack often but I am not as used to it yet. I also quench in transmission fluid. If I am doing a hidden tang or a stick tang I use a propane torch to soften the tang being carefull not to heat the blade. On full tang knives I drill the holes before quench.

I hope this helps. It is what I think I know. I am sure if I am wrong some one will tell us.

Good luck! Will Crump

 

[Chris Meyer]

According to the Heat Treater's Guide, 5160 should be heated to 1525 degrees F for hardening. The Currie point for steel is 1414 degrees F, so you could be under heating by as much as 100 degrees. I would suggest getting a pyrometer and using real quenching oil, but that's just me.

(Also, I found a thread on Sword Forum that addresses 5160 and the Currie Point.)

​

Also, how do you drill the tang after the blade has been fully quenched? Do you heat it with a propane torch until it turns blue and then drill it?

I drill a hole in the tang before I heat treat the blade. If you blue the tang you can probably get away with using a regular drill bit, otherwise, you can use a carbide drill bit (masonery drills will work in a pinch).

 

[mete]

Chris is correct about hardening temperature ! With file tests you must be aware of scale and decarburization that may give false info about hardness.5160 is a good beginners steel in that it's easy to HT and 'forgiving' !