Heat treating A-2

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Mar 10, 2002
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I know I know..the search tab right..well all i get are error messages..so here we go again..would anyone be willing to share their method of heat treating A-2? I am trying this steel because i heard it is similar to 01 and more rust resistant..any help would be appreciated..thanks Luke
 
Go to my web site, follow the link to fixed blades for sale, follow the link to more stag pictures and on the bottom of the page is a lable for the A2 that I buy that has heat treat instructions on it.
 
Wow lots of info..do i need to adjust times on these? It says 1 hour per inch..im no where near an inch on my blades..This can be confusing..thanks for all the info fellas..later Luke
 
Thanks Patrick..i couldnt find a link to more stag pics on your site..mustve missed something..thanks Luke
 
Different manufacturers give slightly different temperature Ranges, but if you harden between 1720°F and 1800°F you won't be far off. I get good results at 1780°F, soaked at temp for 20-30 minutes.

Pay attention to the soak times. those given are minimums-don't cut the time because yours is less than an inch. The minimum is what's required to dissolve the carbides.

Notes the impact strength peaks at HRC 60. Both harder and softer tempers result in lower values.

Cryo will increase hardness slightly, but lower the impact strength. An extra temper will give you some of the extra retained Austenite conversion that cryo treatments are good for.

I did cryo for years on A2, but now just use three tempers, two hours each. I start at 400°F and then do the final two at 450°F.

I got my basic method from Uddeholm Steel's recipe.
 
Thanks a bunch..im up against it on this knife..do you preheat? or just heat your oven to 1780? Thanks again Luke
 
Although preheat should not be necessary, I think most people do it anyway. No harm.

Mind what Steve said about soaking, it won't hurt to soak a little too long, but too short is not good. A2 isn't as bad as some, but it can suffer from under soaking.

You can plate quench A2 with good results.

I recommend using foil.

If you're interested in cryo, the heat treater's guide shows that A2 responds pretty well to it, especially at the lower tempers people use on knives. $5 dry ice from the grocery store mixed with $5 acetone from the hardware store does the job. It has usually been recommended to soak in cold for several hours, but it is not a diffusion conversion, so there is an argument that says you just need to get it cold and you're done. Regardless, make the cryo part of the quench for best results, meaning out of the plates, into water then into dry ice without delay.
 
I know I know..the search tab right..well all i get are error messages..so here we go again..would anyone be willing to share their method of heat treating A-2? I am trying this steel because i heard it is similar to 01 and more rust resistant..any help would be appreciated..thanks Luke

The "Search" function on this site is down right HORRIBLE! It is truely one step above useless. For such a great site I can't believe nothing has ever been done about it.
 
http://www.bucorp.com/files/aisi_a2.pdf

This is the info sheet for Bohler/Uddeholm North America for A2, See: http://www.bucorp.com/cold_work.htm for all cold work tool steel info.

I have another paper in my files that is the first independent (not done by a Cryo company) study of the effects of Cryo on A2:

http://www.airproducts.com/NR/rdonl...019GLB.pdf#search="cryogenic quenching steel"

This is what changed my mind about cryo treating tool steels. This is the only independent study of the effects of cryo on tool steel I have found. Most things you search out on the web are published by cryo companies with the agebda of selling you on the process.

Soaking longer than recommended will not hurt-see old threads on O1 here-and may help as long as you do not excede max temp.

I have also read posts from Bob Dozier on several forums where he said that if you are getting gains from cryo on D2, you are not heat treating it right,

I have since concentrated on getting the most out of conventional HT. I still cryo Stainless.

I plate quench A2 and use SS foil.
 
A2 is a great steel if you are looking for good toughness, ease of heat treatment and the ability to take a really keen edge. The only real negative (all steels seem to have at least one don't they) is the lack of corrosion resistance.

I soak at 1775 for 30 min and quench in air, draw twice at 500 one hour each draw.

I've quit cryo-ing A2 because I did not see as much benifit as I see in D2 or Stainless.

jim
 
Load blades in stainless steel foil packets (crimped 3 times). Kiln should be room temperature. First segment ramp to 1200-1250 and soak for 10-15 minutes and then bring temperature to 1750-1800 and soak blades for a mininum of 30 minutes up to say 45 minutes. The thicker the blade is, the more time you need to soak it.

pull it out once the 2nd segment is over and either take it out of foil packet, check for straightness and hang to cool (if you have some sort of hole in the tang or plate quench.

If you're doing a blade say 1/16 to say an 1/8 inch thick, make sure your crimps on the foil packet isn't thicker than the flat on the blade, otherwise it could cause your blade to warp or stay warped if it warped in the kiln when plate quenching.

use 1/2 to 1" inch plates of aluminum to quench. works fast!

There is about a gagillion ways to heat treat steel and experimentation is what you're gonna need to do.

The heat treating data that comes with the steel is just technically a bare mininum or safety method of heat treating the steel....but like anything, you can really push it to the edge and make it a crazy cutting machine (if you figure something else out beyond average).
 
I've been using Google to search this site, works just fine. What you must type to Google:

heat treat a2 site:bladeforums.com

the 'site:blaah' part says of course from which site the results should be displayed.

HTH

Viljo

The "Search" function on this site is down right HORRIBLE! It is truely one step above useless. For such a great site I can't believe nothing has ever been done about it.
 
Thanks a bunch guys..i will start with the info from here and just ht some blades..once again you guys get me out of a bind..later Luke
 
I've been using Google to search this site, works just fine. What you must type to Google:

heat treat a2 site:bladeforums.com

the 'site:blaah' part says of course from which site the results should be displayed.

HTH

Viljo

I agree when you Google something many hits come up on this site. But to do a search directly thru this site is down right useless! Worst search function on any forum I have ever used.
 
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