- Joined
- Dec 9, 2003
- Messages
- 4,817
I am starting to learn more about heat treating as I get into making knives and I am trying to understand something.
I understand that stainless steels need long soaks and have more complicated rules (lets call them recipies.) Whereas some of the carbon steels (all?) can be done in a forge by eye without a complicated recipie.
Is heat treating stainless steels pretty much down to a simple science? Put the knife in the knife oven, punch in the recipie and out pops a perfectly hardened knife ready to go? Tempering included?
Does the stainless steel done in those ovens not need to be quenched?
Whereas the carbon steels you look for a certain color, and see if it is magnetic and quench it in some liquid that can be any number of products and then temper in a oven. It seems more of an art. Can the kiln ovens heat treat carbon steels? 1095, D2 O1 etc?
I read about the knife competitions, people showing how strong their blades are and how they dont break, but how is that competition when anyone can stick a piece of metal int eh computer controlled oven and out pops a blade?
Im sure that you can use different recipies if you want the stainless at different hardnesses for different uses, but does the computer kiln pretty much take any guesswork out of knife making?
I read a lot about the different ways to build ovens and heat treat this or that, various techniques for better results. Does the automatic oven not pretty much take the guess work out of the metal hardening? In that sense also, shouldnt any sizeable company be able to turn out a 440C blade with a great heat treat? (some companies have better reputations for their heat treats while some have worse )
The only heat treating I did was on some thin sheet steel. I think it was 304 steel, used for liners. I got it from Jantz. I wanted strikers for the flint rods I bought from goinggear.com. I just held it with pliers at a corner and heated it up witha propane torch till it wouldnt get any brighter red color and quenched in warm water. I know this is of course not proper or optimal but I did notice an increase in hardness. At least it felt less pliable and it worked as a striker. A little soft still but definately worked.
I understand that stainless steels need long soaks and have more complicated rules (lets call them recipies.) Whereas some of the carbon steels (all?) can be done in a forge by eye without a complicated recipie.
Is heat treating stainless steels pretty much down to a simple science? Put the knife in the knife oven, punch in the recipie and out pops a perfectly hardened knife ready to go? Tempering included?
Does the stainless steel done in those ovens not need to be quenched?
Whereas the carbon steels you look for a certain color, and see if it is magnetic and quench it in some liquid that can be any number of products and then temper in a oven. It seems more of an art. Can the kiln ovens heat treat carbon steels? 1095, D2 O1 etc?
I read about the knife competitions, people showing how strong their blades are and how they dont break, but how is that competition when anyone can stick a piece of metal int eh computer controlled oven and out pops a blade?
Im sure that you can use different recipies if you want the stainless at different hardnesses for different uses, but does the computer kiln pretty much take any guesswork out of knife making?
I read a lot about the different ways to build ovens and heat treat this or that, various techniques for better results. Does the automatic oven not pretty much take the guess work out of the metal hardening? In that sense also, shouldnt any sizeable company be able to turn out a 440C blade with a great heat treat? (some companies have better reputations for their heat treats while some have worse )
The only heat treating I did was on some thin sheet steel. I think it was 304 steel, used for liners. I got it from Jantz. I wanted strikers for the flint rods I bought from goinggear.com. I just held it with pliers at a corner and heated it up witha propane torch till it wouldnt get any brighter red color and quenched in warm water. I know this is of course not proper or optimal but I did notice an increase in hardness. At least it felt less pliable and it worked as a striker. A little soft still but definately worked.