Heat treating asemetrical grinds and warp prevention. How to?

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Oct 8, 2009
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Im making a crescent leather knife and im doing a single bevel, chisel like grind, The only thing im afraid of is how this might act in the quench.

Im starting with 1/8 inch 1095 and planning on a bevel about 1/2 inch wide.

Is there anything i could do to prevent the warping, or is it not somthing i should worry about?

Thanks, Hodges.
 
Unless it's a really big knife, I shouldn't worry about it.
Most warpage on small knives can be corrected post HT.
 
I'm interested in your design ideas on this head knife. Why the chisel grind? 6" from tip to tip?
 
Do three normalizing cycles and the pregrind to about.050,paint with a thin satinite wash.use good controlled heat and a fast quench and it should do fine.
finish grind after H/T.
Stan
 
I mostly do chisel ground knives and do all my own heat treat. I think the key to avoiding warpage on chisel ground knives is keeping the heat down when grinding, I use sharp belts and keep the steel cool.

You have to keep your heat even and quench without twisting or much lateral movement, in my opinion this applies to both single and double grinds but I thought I'd mention it.

I have only made a few blades in 1095 and haven't had the best luck with keeping warpage down with that particular steel, the fast quench speed probably has something to do with it... according to the charts I have read it has a higher distortion rate than a lot of other steels. Have some thick leather gloves and a straightening rig nearby to straighten hot out of quench, straightening during temper also works well.

You could also leave the blade at full thickness prior to heat treat or leave the edge thicker, both will help.
 
Do three normalizing cycles and the pregrind to about.050,paint with a thin satinite wash.use good controlled heat and a fast quench and it should do fine.
finish grind after H/T.
Stan

That too!
 
I quenched a 1095 copy of a fallkniven F1 in transmission fluid (when I thought all carbon steels were ht'd equally) and it warped. That might be due to uneven grinding too, I couldn't say. But it's a slower quench than some oils or water, I think.
 
Hmm that's an interesting idea on the straight edge. But then your top point becomes redundant?
 
Yeah I know the design. I've probably worn out 30 or 40 of em over the last 40 years or so. A round knife/head knife has 2 points, one at either end of the crescent. If your flat is on the left side and that is where your straight edge is (bevel on the right for pushing the leather away from your cut) you will never use the upper half of the blade. Unless you are ambidextrous. The top half of the blade is ground for a lefty, the bottom half for a right hander, with this chisel grind. That's part of the advantage of the round knife design is that basically you always have 2 edges that can be used, rotating it over before having to stop to strop your edge. Also there should be a slight rocking motion with the cut, also part of the design, ending towards the point. The points are used to cut curves. The tighter a curve the more to the point ya go. So with a chisel grind flat to ride against the straight edge you would only ever use half the knife. The side with the point down. There's kinda my confusion. Now I'm not saying this is a bad deal but how about more of a tear drop design with only one point, kinda half of the crescent. I've seen and used those before but without the chisel grind. I like the out of box thinking. I'd like to see how it works. If ya want to build a head knife that leather workers would really love, start with thinner stock and do your half inch bevel (or more) on both sides. Most store bought round knives are too thick and have too steep a bevel.
 
ok I get where your coming from now. Well I already cut the blade out and attached the tang via grove/notch joint and had somone weld it for me (the machine shop and shop supervisor at my college rocks) I gues I might try get the bevel a little shallower then. I just really dont want to have to grind it streight if i can avoid it.

I think the top point will still get a good ammount of use cutting curves and such.

Im excited with this one, It's simple but a new thing for me.
 
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