heat treating bolsters

G

Glenn

Joined
Jan 13, 1999
Messages
91
It is mentioned that stainless steel is often used in place of nickel silver on bolsters for increased durability. My question is are you heat treating the stainless you use for the bolsters? If so to what Rc?

Regards,
Glenn H
 
I personally use either 309 or 416 SS for bolsters and guards, and don't heat treat it. I have heard that 416 offers better stain resistance if heat treated, but don't know any specifics. I'm not sure why else you would want to harden bolsters or guards though.

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316 is the best stainless, it's used for many things that can't rust for a very long time. my dad said a company he worked for tested it's rust resistance. they had it in water for months without it rusting.
 
316 is one tough mutha!!
For bolsters that are going to be engraved 410 ,416, 420 are pretty much standard..
These steels will machine better if there 28-32 rc than they do at full annealed There gummy and soft. 416 is the best of this bunch to machine..
I think some knife supply houses offer them in the heat treated state..


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Most knife supply houses that I am aware of offer 303 (304 for thong hole tubing) and 416. Although 316 is very corrosion resistant, it is also very hard to work with. For example, trying to peen a pin into it would be tough to say the least, it tends to work harden. I have never seen 316 pins readily available (that doesn't mean they aren't, I just haven't really looked that hard).
I have not used 416, only 303. 303 is not as difficult to work with as some folks would believe. I use it almost exclusively for bolsters and guards. It doesn't scratch as easily as nickel silver or brass which stands to reason.

C Wilkins
 
Out of shear boredom and lack of any other precision ground steel in my shop, I am making a two blade folding hunter completely out of ats-34. I am going to have all the parts heat treated, partially because ats will rust real easy in it's annealed state, but also because it looks like it would make the knife alot tougher. How many dings have been put in bolsters when they were dropped? Would heat treating them make them less likely to dent or scratch? Would it make them too brittle? It just seems to me it would make a better knife overall, and if I can make a better knife for my customers by treating the frames and bolsters(integral bolsters on mine) then why not??? Whew!! I sure am long winded tonight!! Take care! Michael

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I should have mentioned this in my previous reply, 303 is not "heat treatable". It is non-magnetic. This may be the case in all 300 series stainless but I am not sure.

C Wilkins
 
none of the 300 series is heat treatable, but since 316(the most stainless) and the others are more stainless they wouldn't need to be anyway. i know 316 has 17-18% chromium, and 17-18% nickle. that's why it lasts so long under water without rusting. it can be polished to a very bright finish, becuase of the chromium and nickle contents.
 
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