Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Aug 20, 2004
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In a series of emails to several newer makers I have come to believe that many are reading more into the numbers than is really necessary. Here is one of my replies to get this subject going.
There is a big thing being made by a lot of makers, "Oh, my blades are all Rc 61.etc..."( I have heard boasts of Rc66). This is mostly said by those who don't understand the actual situation. An example is a piece of glass. It has a high Rc but makes a poor knife. It will get razor sharp (sharper than any steel blade is able to) but the edge will chip and the blade will break. A plain piece of unhardened steel can be honed to a very sharp edge,and will not break under most any use. It just won't be able to keep that edge from wearing away or bending over.This too would be a poor knife.The optimal knife is one that has some features of both.
The aim of making a quality knife blade is to have a hardened edge that can withstand use (and a bit of abuse), be easily sharpened, and be tough.Its edge should be tough enough not to chip out or roll over. The Rc figures found on most charts are for industrially quenched large objects and tools, not knives. A good blade will temper down to Rc 59 area, and be springy enough to withstand side pressure without bending permanently or breaking.This is the subject that Ed Fowler,mete, Kevin and others like myself discuss ( I do not put myself in their sphere of expertise). Few ABS master smith blades are hardened beyond a final Rc 59. I can assure you no Rc61 blade ever passed the JS or MS testing.
The idea is to get a particular steel and learn all you can about how it works for YOU. If you have a lab with a SEM and argon shielded ovens - that is what you should master. If it is a propane torch, a can of ATF, and a set of yard sale files - that is what you should master.
I do O-1 blades with the Ac temps for O-1 ,a quench in Heat Bath's AAA and a double temper at 400, and a spine draw to achieve a properly balanced blade of a hard edge and a soft spine. On a blade done this way the Rc will vary depending on where you test.Rc 52 on some places, Rc59 at the very edge. A blade like this will outperform almost any simple quench and temper blade.
So to make it a simple catch phrase, "Don't learn the numbers...learn what the numbers represent."
I would rather have a blade made by a smith who understood the theory of knifemaking and made his blades to do a specific purpose (with procedures designed to attain that purpose) and didn't really care what the Rc is ,than one from a person who said ,"The chart said Rc61 so I tempered for that target hardness."
Stacy
There is a big thing being made by a lot of makers, "Oh, my blades are all Rc 61.etc..."( I have heard boasts of Rc66). This is mostly said by those who don't understand the actual situation. An example is a piece of glass. It has a high Rc but makes a poor knife. It will get razor sharp (sharper than any steel blade is able to) but the edge will chip and the blade will break. A plain piece of unhardened steel can be honed to a very sharp edge,and will not break under most any use. It just won't be able to keep that edge from wearing away or bending over.This too would be a poor knife.The optimal knife is one that has some features of both.
The aim of making a quality knife blade is to have a hardened edge that can withstand use (and a bit of abuse), be easily sharpened, and be tough.Its edge should be tough enough not to chip out or roll over. The Rc figures found on most charts are for industrially quenched large objects and tools, not knives. A good blade will temper down to Rc 59 area, and be springy enough to withstand side pressure without bending permanently or breaking.This is the subject that Ed Fowler,mete, Kevin and others like myself discuss ( I do not put myself in their sphere of expertise). Few ABS master smith blades are hardened beyond a final Rc 59. I can assure you no Rc61 blade ever passed the JS or MS testing.
The idea is to get a particular steel and learn all you can about how it works for YOU. If you have a lab with a SEM and argon shielded ovens - that is what you should master. If it is a propane torch, a can of ATF, and a set of yard sale files - that is what you should master.
I do O-1 blades with the Ac temps for O-1 ,a quench in Heat Bath's AAA and a double temper at 400, and a spine draw to achieve a properly balanced blade of a hard edge and a soft spine. On a blade done this way the Rc will vary depending on where you test.Rc 52 on some places, Rc59 at the very edge. A blade like this will outperform almost any simple quench and temper blade.
So to make it a simple catch phrase, "Don't learn the numbers...learn what the numbers represent."
I would rather have a blade made by a smith who understood the theory of knifemaking and made his blades to do a specific purpose (with procedures designed to attain that purpose) and didn't really care what the Rc is ,than one from a person who said ,"The chart said Rc61 so I tempered for that target hardness."
Stacy