there has been quit a bit on heat treating lately, and for me it has raised many more questions than it has answered. ive got some general questions concerning any generic knife steel, and some specific questions about CPM M4, that I cant find adequate answers because it is so different (austenitizing temp over 2100 F), additionally I cant heat treat the M4 so I have a couple of questions about professional ht.
O.k. General
1. differential quenching-Why does w2 almost allays have a sweet hamon, and also if one does differentially quench (I am assuming edge dunking, but I suppose for clay also) does the part you dunked obtain the same hardness as if you dunked the whole thing? I think since the top is not cooling through water, or oil it will transfer most of its heat to the submersed part. also if edge dunking if you normally used oil should you use water?, or if you would normally use water use a brine? or would the distortion be especially dangerous in a differential? also should the temper be at a lowere temp.? I've heard that some tools will quench (differentially), and the excess heat in the rest of the tool will temper the blade.
2. should one use a higher austenizing temp, and then temper at higher temp or austenitize lower and temper lower for the same hardness?
3. does vacuum ht reduce/eliminate decarburization? and increase consistancy
CPM M4 and prof. Ht
1 if sending out to a professional can I request a quenching medium, and will they quench differentially, or at least not quench the tang? (This one I find to be much more important than differential b/c a brittle hiden tang is bad, as well as for a skinny necker with no scales drobing it on the handle might fracture it.)
2. additionally Id like the M4 on small blads up to 64/65 will most H.t.ers do this high? Recommendations?
and if you have a heat treating kiln would you ht M4 up to 65?
Thanks in advance
[edit]
everyone using HSS must read this http://met-sol.com/pdfs/pdf0008.PDF
pay special atention to the photomicrographs, now imagine what a particle metallurgy steel would look like
salt baths are the way to go
O.k. General
1. differential quenching-Why does w2 almost allays have a sweet hamon, and also if one does differentially quench (I am assuming edge dunking, but I suppose for clay also) does the part you dunked obtain the same hardness as if you dunked the whole thing? I think since the top is not cooling through water, or oil it will transfer most of its heat to the submersed part. also if edge dunking if you normally used oil should you use water?, or if you would normally use water use a brine? or would the distortion be especially dangerous in a differential? also should the temper be at a lowere temp.? I've heard that some tools will quench (differentially), and the excess heat in the rest of the tool will temper the blade.
2. should one use a higher austenizing temp, and then temper at higher temp or austenitize lower and temper lower for the same hardness?
3. does vacuum ht reduce/eliminate decarburization? and increase consistancy
CPM M4 and prof. Ht
1 if sending out to a professional can I request a quenching medium, and will they quench differentially, or at least not quench the tang? (This one I find to be much more important than differential b/c a brittle hiden tang is bad, as well as for a skinny necker with no scales drobing it on the handle might fracture it.)
2. additionally Id like the M4 on small blads up to 64/65 will most H.t.ers do this high? Recommendations?
and if you have a heat treating kiln would you ht M4 up to 65?
Thanks in advance
[edit]
everyone using HSS must read this http://met-sol.com/pdfs/pdf0008.PDF
pay special atention to the photomicrographs, now imagine what a particle metallurgy steel would look like
salt baths are the way to go
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