Heat Treating revisited

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Feb 5, 1999
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There was recently a thread about heat treating and foil. Since I do a fair amount of this, I thought I'd take a look at the methods that were used.

First, I use a KM14D Paragon furnace. I buy my tool wrap from Enco as it works as well as any other place I've purchased it. I do not use the high temp, just the regular and have for years without a problem. That lays out some basics.

There were those advocating a small hole in the wrap. That has always produced scale for me, so I didn't try that again.

Normally I use a small tab of wood inside the wrap. When I'm done there is a piece of charcoal in the wrap. I used to use paper, but always worried because I don't know how much is needed to completely remove the O2 from the packet, so I went to a small tab of wood. I double fold the open sides after I put a blade in, and use a pair of pliers with a 2" wide flat jaw to crimp the folds all around. Got them at a garage sale for 50 cents, a really good investment.

For both tests I used 8 blades, mostly 154CM and a little ATS34. The blades were washed clean in tap water and dried prior to wrapping. I don't wrap the blades so that the foil is tight fitting, but neither do I leave much space for air. Both sets of blades were ramped up to 1950 and held for 25 minutes. That is the standard I use.

The first batch of blades I used a piece of paper about 1/2" square in each packet. That's a lot less combustible than I normally use.

The second set of blades was done without any extra combustibles at all.

In examining the difference, there is quite a difference. The batch with paper in the packet were clean, had the various rainbow colors from heat treating, and a slight bit of soot. A very slight bit.

Batch 2, without any extra combustibles, looked uniformly dirty. There are colors visible, but it really looks like a very thin coat of scale on every blade. I haven't ground any of it off. The amount of scale possible isn't much, but none the less, is present.

So in my own mind and for my methods, I've seen the results and will go back to wrapping blades as I always have. A liitle soot is quite preferable to a little scale. I may not use as much wood and will probably go back to maybe a 1" square of paper, but I will always put something combustible inside the foil packet.

Gene
 
I ran an experiment because of that thread, too. I had 4 very small blades from 1/16" D2 stock. The blades were washed with dish soap, rinsed with tap water and dried with a paper towel. Not wanting to deal with much oxidation, for the first time I wrapped them bag-in-a-bag, both rolled double seams using Type 321 "low-temp" Precision brand foil. Nothing was included in the bag as sacrificial oxygen scavenger.

The blades were austenitized at 1850 for 30 minutes, then plate quenched. The outer bag was the typical blackened mess, brittle as can be. The inner bag was discolored and embrittled, but not as brittle or blackened as the outer bag.

The blades came out of the inner bag some of the prettiest I have done since I started my own HT in 1985. There was only the slightest amount of greying to the blades and some goldish coloration in places where the foil was touching them. No other colors. I can't remember ever getting this before.

The blades HRc'd at 63, right on.

This whole issue of what causes nasty stuff happening in the bag has always confused me. At times I've suspected pinholes from the bag expanding against the blade or ones that went unnoticed during "bag assembly". At other times I wonder if the brittleness of the bag oxidizing allows oxygen infiltration. I'd love to get a definitve handle on it and be able to repeat this last experience every time.

Some sources claim that Type 321 foil should only be used to 1800F while others claim 2000. I next want to find a source for a small amount of Type 309 high-temp foil and give that a try. Some sources claim 2000 for it, others 2200F. Either way, i am hoping it will resist oxidation a little better.

I hope others share recent experiences. Could be a very good thread, Gene. Thanks for starting it.
 
well i just (as in 30 min ago) plate quenched some M2 blades
2100f 321 foil nothign inthe pack but the blade all folded done 2 times
1 inch AL plates there gettign ready for tempering now
this is how i do it every time
i have no picture of the nasty chared foil but here are the blades oo and the hunter is cpm10v
DSC03389sm.jpg
 
Gene, I believe your thread a very good one. In my first learnings, or trying to learn, I was instructed to use a small piece of clean paper (1 inch square max or smaller). I used to use a piece of grocer brown paper bag. I have heat treated lots of complex steel and complex steels for other makers. I still believe in the combustible within the packet. I must admit though there have been a time or two I just forgot to put one in there. You know how it goes with foil wrap. You get all anxious about getting it wrapped just to remember you forgot the paper!! Bottom line; I've done 1950 F. steel with and without paper. Either way I never got into trouble but I prefer a little bit of combustible (a small amount, not any more than that). I do not believe it takes much and too much can potentially cause problems. A wood chunk I would not prefer to use. I have heard of a clean cigarette filter being used by a knife maker I most highly regard. Today I use about a square inch of common printer parer. Brown paper bag is very good too from my experience. Too much combustible is predictable. We do not want the wrap compromised by expansion. ...and you are exactly correct: we DO NOT want any pin holes in the foil wrap. Pin holes are for those not knowing better.

Oh, and for a cleaner outcome always place your combustible at tang area of packet instead of blade area. The oxygen within does not care. It will seek it out. It has no choice. It must equalize within the packet chamber.

rlinger
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Roger, back when I used to use oil to quench 440C and ATS34 I used to include two "used" cigaret filters in order to make a bunch of gas in the envelope on purpose! :)

It would make the packet a little easier to quickly rip the blade out and get a good grip on with the tongs.

Dang, I sure don't miss those days! Here's a big "thank you " to whoever first thought of plate quenching air hardening blades. :thumbup:
 
Dang, I sure don't miss those days! Here's a big "thank you " to whoever first thought of plate quenching air hardening blades. :thumbup:

i may have only oil quenched a few blades before getting my plates but it sure did suck to do

ever have a blade not want to come out the pack but time was wasting so the hole works went into the oil to be swished around :barf:
it came out ok and the hardness was fine but that was the last straw for me to get the plates
 
Fitzo, I love ya buddy and that's a twist I never would have thought of but have read of here. When I used to force air quench deep hardening steels I cut them, frantically, out of the packet. Since discovering the benefit of plate quench of deep hardening steels (thank you Kit Carson for talking me into it) getting hot blades out of foil is a thing of the past for me. I used to argue against plate quench because it made no good sense. That was before I tried it. I was wrong, again.

rlinger
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....ever have a blade not want to come out the pack but time was wasting so the hole works went into the oil to be swished around :barf:
...

That's a good time to know how to cuss well! :D Makes the foil come off a little easier digging around under the oil, I think!

Frantic is the exact right word to describe that dance trying to get the foil off!

Roger, we all keep learning, don't we? All those experiments you did made those of us around at the time understand the process a little better than we did before. We owe you a "thanks", too!:thumbup:
 
As for oil quenching regardless of hardening type:

Oil quench in foil is worthless unless, perhaps, there is a partial vacuum within the packet that holds the foil skin tight to all blade geometry and that ain't going to happen. If cutting foil you are not going to get it out in time for optimum quench (deep hardening steels exception) and cutting slits or holes in the packet will never give a consistent oil quench. One objective in all quench is instant consistency about all surfaces of concern.

rlinger
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plate quencher here!! My first foil wrapped D2 blade was a large 17" overall monster and came out at an RC of 64 tempered down to 61 and holds a great edge:thumbup: I cant imagine trying to snag a blade out of that glowing foil!!!:(
 
Plates for me too. I'm happy to hear that others have done the frantic dance while trying to get the foil off. Before plates I would snip the ends of the packet off quickly with tin snips and cool with an air blast from a vortec cold air gun. It cooled the blades quick, a little too quick IMHO. Every once in a while one would warp (could have been due to an inconsistant air blast), which is what led me to the plate quenching. For some reason my blades come out much cleaner when I don't use a combustible in the packet :confused: . Something I've been doing the last 6-8 months is saving some of the packs (mostly from my large camp blades) and re-using them for stress relieving, normalizing etc., and having excellent results. It has been said not to use foil packs more than once I know, but this has been working very well for me. I believe stress relieving prior to final austenitizing has all but eliminated problems with warping for me. Good thread Gene :thumbup:
 
Okay, so realistically how many blades can be plate quenched in a session? Is this a omesy-twosey thing or something that can be realistically worked up to 8-10 blades per session?

Guess I need to do some homework on plate quenching, but I seldom heat treat just ome blade.

Gene
 
depending on thickness about 6 or so till that get warm on me and i want to cool them off
my plates are 6x18x1 inch thick im thinking about milling slots in the back and plumbing cool water into them as a quick way to get them back to cool and do like 12 blades at a shot

ooo and if the blades are the same thickness you can press 2 at once if you like (just not on top of each other)
 
Great thread gents,

What about plate quenching in conjuction with salt bath heat treating? Would there be a concern for the salt residue left on the blades corroding your quench plates prematurely? Is anyone working with this system?
Thanks, Rod
 
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