Heavy-bladed, Light-handled Wilderness Chopping Knives

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Apr 3, 2006
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What, really, do you need to chop in the wilderness?

If you are in a cold climate and it is absolutely critical to have shelter and fire, then it would be foolish to rely on a knife alone. An axe or big saw is pretty much essential.

For wilderness trips in more temperate climates your chopping needs might be of less importance. Perhaps you want to make the odd camp gadget, make kindling, and maybe cut some brush for bedding.

My own chopping needs are fairly modest. When setting a trap line I might want to cut away a few twigs that interfere with my set, cut the odd small-diameter pole, and maybe make a few triggers etc. Occasionally I might want to cut through a sapling that has fallen across a track, or maybe clear a few blackberry vines.

I've tried carrying a variety of choppers. Tomahawk, hatchets, golok, several khukuris and machetes.

Currently my chopper is a 10" Tramontina machete. The tomahawk wasn't enough of a chopper, the hatchets are fairly heavy and a pig to carry, and the khukuris were relatively heavy and a bit bulky with their own scabbards.

But even the 10" Tramontina is a bit inconvenient to carry, and I don't always need that much of a chopper.

My treasured Bark River Gameskeeper can chop well enough for most of my casual needs, even if it does take a bit longer to cut through a decent sapling. But it is convenient to carry and it can be used for a wide variety of chores. And if something decent does need to be cut, I can use a baton to drive the blade like a chisel. But it isn't quite big enough. I think I'd like to try a knife with maybe a 7 or 8 inch blade that has plenty of weight in the blade while still having a relatively sharp point. So I'm looking for a general purpose hunting knife that is also fairly good for light chopping. And I prefer straight knives.... I never did get used to the khukuri 'kink'.

I like knives that have the majority of the weight forward. These chop nicely. When I agonized over this topic in the past, Esav suggested that a Leuku might be a good choice for me. I certainly like the look of them. And I also like one or two of the parang-style knives I've seen. Often both these types of knife have a rat-tail tang. These tangs make it simpler to fit a handle in primitive conditions, but I'm concerned that a handle could come loose when I'm some distance back in the bush with no time assigned for knife-fixing.

So.... I'd like your opinions and thoughts please.

What experiences have you had with working knives that have rat-tail tangs? What other relatively small 'chopper' knives have worked well for you?

Thanks in advance... Best wishes.... Coote.
 
I know I'm not really answering your question but I often wonder how one of these would work in the woods !

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Maybe a Japanese hand axe would suit your needs also !
 
I reckon that concave shape would work extremely well for cutting light brush, especially the nasty, springy blackberry vines I encounter. It should also perform well enough for slightly bigger jobs.
 
Perhaps the BK7? Strong as an ox, Very nimble, easy to sharpen....excellent warranty through KaBar, it is almost exactly the specs you named.


There are a lot of after market scale options, although a lot of people love the factory grivory (myself included). It is easily modified to fit your individual likes, and looks pretty nice stripped and polished! Dont let the plain black looks fool you, it has potential under that black wrapping.

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Or if you want something a lil more traditional looking, the BK5 has all the toughness of it's brothers and is VERY very nimble and light in the hand..you will swear you're holding a knife half it's size.
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Here are a couple threads that may interest you.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...A-Tale-of-Two-7s-*and-a-5*-(Pictorial-Review)

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ppreciation-Week!?highlight=appreciation+week


I may be a Beckerhead, but my suggestions are based on using and appreciating these knives...not just from ''fanboyism"
 
Hey Stephen,
You have some important points. To speak to the initial question I would first say that it depends what wilderness I'm in, for how long and for what reason.

For long term living I'd say axe and saw are my first choices.

A long day on trails and beach when grilling I would want my Sven saw or at least my SAK Farmer with it's saw and thicker blade.

Camping where we would want a long burning and well supplied fire all night I would like at least a hawk or large khuk.

I too have an old Gameskeeper that a pal turned into a drop point and roughed up that slick handle to be grippier. It gets abused and can take it. For finer all around camp chores I love my D. Farmer Trade Sticker for my woods cooking and prepping.

In thinking about your questions I realized that in my habit of double redundancy and being spoiled with so many blade choices I really don't know how to answer you fully.

I must ponder this on the tree of whoa!

Take care,
Mark
 
Thanks for the ideas so far. Much appreciated. And I agree that a saw and an axe are needed for some situations. And like you Greenwoods, I seldom have just one knife with me, even though I seem to be on the search for that one does-it-all magical tool.

Actually we've had a huge wind today, and I've been reflecting on the fact that I don't have a chainsaw or a full sized axe if I need one to clear a tree off our road or fence. A man should at least have a big axe in his shed.

Those Bravo 2s look very nice indeed, and I'd gladly own one. They cost a bit though. Still, that is no reason to give up on wanting one.

I've long admired the BK7s. I've looked at the pictures, read the forum posts, and hunted for a dealer who sells them at a reasonable price and who will ship outside the USA. I am keeping my eye out for a good deal. I can't justify buying one immediately as my discretionary 'outdoors' fund is set aside to pay for having a new sound moderator fitted to my .308 hunting rifle. (I might have it done by this weekend.... I've loaded up some subsonic loads using bullets I've cast myself. Should be almost as quiet as a bow and arrow !!). Thanks for those links.

I'd be quite happy to have either a Bravo 2 or a Becker 7 hanging at my side.
 
Oops. I see this thread has been shifted. Sorry about that. Should have thought about it before posting.
 
Well it's not a quarter inch thick behemoth 8" mashing iron but have you considered this Browning? "A general purpose hunting knife that is also fairly good for light chopping" looks like exactly what this is, and it seems whole lot of knife for the money considering I've seen them on a foreign Amazon for 70blah. The Browning badged stuff I've seen so far from that Crowell Barker competition cutter through to the Escalade series always gets a warm reception. Kommer came up as a hunter too not a neo-bushcrafter or ninja. I could be way off here but given your adoration for your Gameskeeper I figure you should be aware of this one despite the lack of huge mass and it having hollow grind.
 
Hey sc, too bad you don't like bent blades because you know what my choice would be: KaBar Becker Machax:

KaBar Era
Shape: clip
Edge Angle: ? degrees
Grind: flat
Steel: 1095 CroVan
Rc hardness: 56-58
Blade length: 9.375 inches
Overall length: 14.6875 inches
Blade thickness: .200 (about)
Knife Weight: 15.2 oz
Handle: Grivory-GV-6H
Sheath: Nylon/pouch style (probably with BK13 keeper)
Origins: knife made in USA

Doc
 
For a lightweight chopper I like the Mora #333. It only weight 7 oz. and handles knife tasks well, but the thin blade bites a lot deeper than you'd expect and the 13" blade length gives you just enough reach for it to be useful clearing brush. I keep mine on my pack or in a simple baldric for just tossing on when doing chores around the homestead.
 
I don't really mind a 'bent' blade, it is just... as a hunter.... i prefer a straight blade. I hardly ever stick a pig nowadays, but I know that it is helpful to have everything in your favor if you have to finish a hog with your knife. They can thrash about and generally dont seem to want to be grabbed and killed. I have had look at the Machax, and I feel fairly sure that if the point was even slightly sharp I could easily slip it through a pig skin. But whereas most of the knives I've used have a point that lines up with the handle, a Machax or kukri doesn't. I wouldn't want to bother with mental geometrical calculations when things are tense.

When the dog suddenly disappears into thick scrub and the air becomes filled with barking, growling, crashing, snorting, squealing and the clacking of tusks..... one tends to fall back into instinctive mode. For fifty years my knives have been straight. At such times I'd be focused on keeping out of harms way, figuring out which furry blur is the dog..... and which hog leg I should be grabbing as I'm trying to keep my balance.

I have to add that I don't have a pig dog any more. And when I hear reports of killed or injured dogs it upsets me. But heck it can be exciting.

I'd still happily own a Machax though. So when you get sick of yours Doc, send it down to the south Pacific. I have a few tasks it would be well suited to.

I didn't know Mora made the 333. I found your thread describing them thanks 42B. They'd make a great light chopper. And the small Mora I have is excellent.

I like the look of those Browning Knives thanks Baldtaco. Nice lines and a conveniently slim, well-shaped handle. I also feel very attracted to the Crowell-Barker chopper. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2XfJOFOjJY&feature=related
 
Yeah the #333 isn't quite exactly what you described in the OP but it's a great "EDC machete" :p and great for a whole lot more. It's a very strange beast! Also, the Svord machete is quite nice, and has a more forward mass to it.
 
You also might be interested in the buck hoodlum. Its made of 5160 and heat treated right. 7inch blade and light in the hand.
 
You also might be interested in the buck hoodlum. Its made of 5160 and heat treated right. 7inch blade and light in the hand.

Are you sure you're talking about the Buck Hoodlum? It has a 10" blade. The Buck Punk is closer, but that's under 6" I believe.
 
Thanks for the further ideas. I enjoy checking out images of the names you suggest.

I weighed my 10" Tramontina to get a comparison to the quoted weights of the knives I like the look of. The little machete weighs about 9.3 ozs according to our electronic scales. Its relatively thin blade may partially compensate for its lack of weight, but it has made me keener to try one of these big knives advertised as a chopper (which might typically weigh 12 to 18 ozs). Here's my useful Tramontina:

TramontinaBaton.jpg


TramontinaPolySheath-1.jpg
 
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The Junglas is cool and all, but a machete is lighter and will outchop it.
 
Hi Coote,

I prefer light blades as well, and machetes are great choppers but usually too long... so I ended up making this one for myself:
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2mm thick, 12 in OAL, hollow handle.

I generally design all my blades with the weight as forward as possible.
 
Good stuff. Up until now, I don't think I was aware of what a Junglas was. That is a big sheath knife. I'm guessing that at 33 ozs it might be a bit slower to swing. Beautiful though.... and with a decent sheath.

That chopper sure is original Tohubohu. I've made a number of primitive bows, and I reckon that tool would be ideally suited to shaping a bow stave.
 
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