Heavy duty folders?

If you're going to have it in the shop, and you want to beat the crap out of it, I think you're going in the wrong direction. If that's truly your intent, get a couple of moras and a pry bar. They will do the job MUCH better than a "catch-all" hard use folder.

Just my two cents!
 
If it's for the workshop and you want a heavy duty knife that may be used to pry, you can get that Hinderer feel for about $70 with a Gerber Hinderer Rescue and the almost identical Gerber Hinderer CLS. The CLS has the spanto tip (thicker for prying), is combo edge for a variety of cutting around a workshop, great for cardboard, and it has a few other unique features. There is a built in glass breaker which you could use as a nail punch as well as a slide out seatbelt cutter.

I'll find pics:

http://www.gerbergear.com/index.php/search_results/hinderer

Of course, the prices shown are full MSRP, they don't really cost that much.
 
For me I start at the lock. I pick the Benchmade AXIS and Cold Steel Tri-Ad. CS AK47 is beefy, but big. There are many Benchmades, I carry a 950.
 
Kershaw Lahar would be excellent choice for heavier duty folder with less tan $65 it offers quite value.
 
I didn't really mean to put so much emphasis on the prying thing, all I'm really looking for is something with a tip a bit more substantial than a Para or a Military. I intend to use it hard as a knife, but I do have the proper tools for prying if need be.
Again, thanks for the ideas. I think ultimately, I'm just going to have to heaad down to the local shop and see what feels best in the hand
 
From what I hear the new manix is great. I would look around on the exchange and other forums sale areas for a used sebenza. CRK will make it like new for a reasonable fee.
 
I agree with SPXTrader and his recommendation of the excellent ZT 0200. Alternately the New Spyderco Manix 2 is nice and tough. The ZT 0200 fits my hand size better, but they are both are excellently priced tanks.
 
joebobx said:
Well I'd think that in an allout beating to failure a theck frame lock would last a little longer...
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The cut out in the lock bar of most Ti RIL's (Reeve Integral Lock) means the total load that the lock can take is greatly reduced. Not to mention Ti is a very soft metal compared to steel. STR has reported a few lockbars that just plain shear in half at the contact point (when the lock only engages half way). The advantage is reliability, not strength.
Which reminds me...

I've been using my Kershaw Composite blade JYD II for all the things you're not supposed to use a knife for over the past year, and it's held up quite admirably. The knife excels at cutting sheet metal with its utility sheepsfoot blade. The CPM D-2 edge only chips on hard impacts. When I cut a hole in sheet metal I do a lot of twisting, just to see how the knife handles it. Where my S30V Spyderco Chinook 3 does nothing but chip out, the JYD II doesn't flinch, and I've done some hard scraping on metal too.
The worst thing I've done with the knife is try to force a metal plate off some machinery. One plate was smaller, sitting on top of the other, so sliding the tip along the bigger plate I stabbed at the space between as hard as I could. Knowing full well that the lock could fail I did my best to be careful of the direction of forces being applied to the knife (and I was wearing gloves). After getting a 1/16" space, I realized the plate was bolted on (1/4" bolts). How did the lock handle it? Once again, the knife didn't flinch. Lockup was barely affected, and the knife didn't develop any significant play either.
Not that I would recommend anyone else trying that.
The G-10 Tyrade is pretty much a beefed up JYD II. So if you want something that should hold up just as well, but do a little better in prying, that's what I would get. If you want the up-scale version, there's the ZT0200. The advantage of the 0200 is the super nice handle and super beefy pivot pin, though the 154CM blade probably wouldn't hold up as well as the CPM D-2 edge of the JYD II and G-10 Tyrade.
 
You're probably should get a neck knife like a BK11 for shop use.It can be conviently carried around your neck at all times and also has a bottle/wire breaker end that can be used to open things.
 
SPXTrader said:
Take a look at the ZT0200. Probably the best value for a hard use knife in the ZT line.
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This^^^

I own one, and I think you'd have a hard time breaking it unless thats what you set out to do.
Also they have an excellent warranty.

Saying that, I carry an Emerson CQC-13 BT.

It does everything i need in a knife, and more........

:)
 
CID25 said:
I've been carrying a ParaMilitary for the last few months, but I've found the tip to be a bit on the thin side for my purposes, so I'm looking for something a bit bulkier.
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Has it broken?

Well at least a Benchmade 520 will fullfill al the needs. If it is just the tip, you may look at the Endura IV (with the flat sabre grind) too. The 14205 from HK is a nice knife too and comfortly to carry.
 
I have to agree with the G10 Tyrade recommendations.

Don't let the $90 price tag fool you, it just happens to be a bargain. You won't regret buying one.
 
My ZT 0300 is the strongest folder I have, hands down. Definitely way more robust than any of my Benchmades, Spydercos, or Emersons.
If you want to get one for less than 200, watch ebay, or get a factory blem from Kershawguy. The blems come with no warranty, but you won't need it.
 
how about a CRKT razel...fixed or folding...the fixed stubby is affordable well made, easy to sharpen or replace!?
 
3rd on the Buck 110-all ya have to do is troll the bay and look for all the used knives that show heavy blade wear from use and sharpening-they nearly always say still lock up with good snap and no blade play. Wally world for $30
 
ZT 0200/0400/0350/0500MUDD
Kershaw JYD composite CPM D-2 blade
Kershaw G-10 Tyrade composite CPM D-2 blade
 
Captain's tip is plenty strong -see if you can find one - blade shape may or may not appeal to you - but this is one strong knife from the tip back.
CQC-14 - WAVE's easily removed. Tough -short-cuts real well. Breaking the tip off is a possibility- but so is re-profiling it afterwards -allz ya need is a file and time.
 
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