Hello again I have AK ?

B

Blonds 1st.

Joined
Oct 1, 2004
Messages
21
The other day my brother in law shot a buck. After he had done what he wanted to I took my 18" AK and put it to task. I first struck at the ribs and they were sheard through all the ribs and there were dents and dings in the edge but nothing realy bad. I next cut the spine another ding. But when I made a cut on the leg bone in the sweet spot it was a mago r dent outwards
I hammerd it back but my question is - is this to be expected or should there have been no dent I'm not mad about it any lesser knife would have been worse and a lot of grinding.
 
I don't know if this is relevant to the thread, but this pic is what happened when my best friend and I went to the range today. He mounted his Aimpoint, and fired it for the first time. I fired the circled short-range group (in "stressfire"
rapid controlled pair mode) to show 'em how we did it in the Army.

JStarget.jpg


Speaking of Army- my battalion, 1-5 Infantry, is in Mosul now. May the gods keep them, and I certainly hope they got a Sgt Major worth a damn. The one in
while I was there was a barracks queen. :mad:

John
 
Sorry to stay off-topic, but my best wishes to your battalion. MSNBC is talkin' about a new uprising in Mosul. May they vanquish their enemies. Smoke upwards.
 
Thanks. If it wasn't clear, *I* am now happily back in school. 1-5 can certainly use all the good energy you wanta put out, though. They are part of the 2nd new Stryker Brigade, using the Stryker IAV. I think it's a reasonable concept, but could be doom in urban settings.

Bobcats!

John
 
Blonds 1st. said:
.........in the sweet spot it was a mago r dent outwards
I hammerd it back but my question is - is this to be expected or should there have been no dent ........
Click to expand...
Typically the sweet spot should not dent,
if indeed it was the actual sweet spot
--don't know your experience/knowledge level.............
the kami knows -the- exact spot where impact should occur on that blade
& that is the focus of hardening.
Some hardening covers a lot of the edge length,
to different depths/widths,
other times the hardened area is only exactly over the sweet spot.
Also, if the bend actually occured -behind- the edge,
in a case where the hardening does not extend very far back from the edge,
except at the exact sweet spot.
Variation is normal.

Try searching this forum's threads for keywords
etch hardened
& for
hardness testing

Here's one link to start:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=206794

~
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<>call me 'Dean' :)-FYI-FWIW-IIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TIA-YW-GL-HH-HBD-IBSCUTWS-TWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
Blonds1st -- the hardness seems to vary from blade to blade. My 16.5" AK chops up sheet metal with barely a ding. It will absolutely not ding on wood, regardless of seasoning, knots, etc. My 20" AK will ding on very knotty wood if I'm laying into it but doesn't seem to mind sheet metal (?), still not sure how that works. I caught a ding today on my Kobra that simply scared me. (It got fixed, but I honestly got scared when I first saw it. My first thought was, "If I send this back, Kumar and UB are going to kill me...") Dean's totally right...only the kami who made it knows exactly how that edge was tempered. You're also right -- a lesser knife may have failed. Chopping up that much bone would probably put a ding in an axe. The way I look at it, if it's something that can be fixed in the field, it's not even damage. If it can be fixed at home, it's nothing to worry about. If it can't be fixed...well, I suppose that's what that awesome warranty is for. :D I'd personally rather have my blade ding/roll/bend than chip. Dings, rolls, and bends are comparatively easy to fix. Chips are a PITA. I originally thought that the HI khuks were a little soft on the edge, but the more I use them (and I've already used them far more than any other knife that I own) the more I realize that those kamis know exactly what they're doing -- they're hard enough to hold a good edge but ding (rather than chip or crack) on an impact that they can't handle. At first I didn't think that this was a good thing but now I know that it is. Dings are easy to fix.

Spectre -- best of luck to your people. Nice shooting. I'm guessing that you're not a fan of aiming CoM? ;) The only time I see Strykers nowadays is on the monthly run to Fort Lewis. The bird cage armor looks a little funny but if it saves lives then so be it. We could have a lot of fun in one of those things out at the Camp...I think that's why they won't give us the Hummvee we keep asking for. :rolleyes: After what happened to the last ammo van, I'm surprised that they give us anything at all.
 
No, I do believe in COM. We were just shooting at a head target- I was aiming at the point of the nose, so the shot was low, since it was so close.
 
In that case, just good shooting -- no smart remarks, as much as I love interservice rivalry. (At least when I'm in friendly territory...you ought to see some of the things Ft. Lewis Range Control pulls on me...)
 
Happened to me when I tried to chop through the foreleg of a deer with a 15in older Bura AK. Think I chipped the blade. Filed it down, sharpened it up, and used it for two more years with absolutely no mishap. In fact, I may have sharpened the edge back to a harder metal. That was my best H.I. product. A friend has it now.

Never occurred to me to send it back. I was trying to crush through high-density bone. That's for saws or axes, not knives. Even the sacrifice of the bullocks is done rather carefully, with the neck fully extended, and the point of aim BETWEEN vertebrete.

Here's a tip: Don't do that. Smash bone, cut flesh and wood.

Be well and safe.
 
Note also that Kobras are not covered under the same warrenty as other HI khukris...
 
I have gotten chips when cutting bone before as well. Bone is probably the most destructive material I've cut outside of a cinder block.
 
I am absolutely using my new Sawzall on the next deer. The "wood w/nails" demolition blade will do nicely.

Spare the khuks from chipping on bone!

AA :cool:
 
How close to the tip were the deformations?

I've rarely cut bone. I'd thought the right khuk should do the job, though.
Raghorn might know something of this because he takes a lot of wild game.


munk
 
From what I've seen on the last few khuks I've bought the original edge is just too thin too be chopping bone with, actually IMO the new edges are too thin too be chopping well seasoned hardwood with.
But with a little work on a belt sander or a mousepad and sandpaper the edge can be easily fixed too where it will do fine on either.
Kis mentioned about sharpening the softer steel off to get back to the harder steel and that can often be a factor with the khukuris.
By sharpening the edge more obtusely you are automatically removing any soft steel and you are generating an edge with more material behind the edge making it much, much, stronger and able to stand up too hard work in harder materials.

On edges I've reprofiled I have chopped well seasoned shoulder bone from a cow as well as a horse's jawbone with absolutely no damage too the khukuri.:D
Well seasoned weathered bone is substantially harder than fresh bone and is an excellent test for edge holding.:cool:
 
Blonds, I did some very similar testing to yours a couple years ago. There's another good discussion on the topic here. I have since reprofiled my 18" AK, no more dings in the blade. :)
 
Yvsa, notice any difference between cutting fresh bone and old dried stuff? I forgot you had a pile of bones in your backyard.



munk
 
munk said:
Yvsa, notice any difference between cutting fresh bone and old dried stuff?

munk
Click to expand...
Yup, the old stuff is a lot harder.:eek: The fresh bones such as the hollow ones in the leg have more of a tendency to splinter from my experience.

Yvsa said:
Well seasoned weathered bone is substantially harder than fresh bone and is an excellent test for edge holding.:cool:
Click to expand...
 
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