Hello all. An introduction and a request for guidance.

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Paladin Sponge

Joined
Jan 9, 2008
Messages
14
Greetings, I'm a recently reformed lurker who's just stepped out of the shadows. Great to be here. Hrmmm, and from this point... things get more akward. Do I continue introducing myself, or get to why I'm here? I'll lay down what I'm looking for, and at the end, give a few details about myself. A fair trade, neh?

I've been looking for a fighting blade for a few weeks. Something along the lines of a sykes-fairbairn. Through my research, I've found two that I think could suite my purposes:

http://www.mercworx.com/detail.aspx?ID=29
(mercworx shiva)

and

http://www.randallknives.com/catalog.php?action=modeldetail&id=29
(model 2 fighting stiletto)

I'm not averse to using pretty much anything else, so long as it meets certain requirements.

Basically, I'm looking for something that: 1) is double-edged, 2) has 3-6 inches of blade give or take, 3) has a full-tang or near enough, 4) has a definite cross-guard to help prevent me from slicing my fingers up should my hand slip, 5) has a pommel that can be effectively used as an impact weapon, and 6) is made of quality materials, particularly the blade.

The simpler, the better. I don't need or want rings, loops, serrations, embellishments, etc. If anyone can comment on what I've found or perhaps provide further information that I can follow up on, I'd be grateful.

Now... about me (Skip this part if you like. I tend to wax poetic X_x)

During my attempts to research a knife, bladeforums kept coming up, which is good because I almost always came away with another little tidbit of information that I hadn't known. Two weeks later and still without a good knife, I decided to bite the bullet, shed my anonymity, and ask the community for help.

I hesitated for a long time to sign up on the site, for the same reason I'm not a member of any firearms related forums. I'm not really into my weapons. They're just a part of the job. Hopefully you can relate.

I do have a bit of a small arsenal, but it's purely for defense, utility, or can be attributed to poor impulse control. I own a few firearms, for defense and to keep my marksmanship up. I've got a katana and wakizashi set because of my japanese ancestry (3rd generation immigrant), and I find the process of maintaining them to be very soothing. I own a leatherman that a friend gave me before I went to BCT. I've got a buck folder that my sister gave me after she came back from the coast guard academy (I love this thing, use it for opening letters, cutting ropes, peeling fruit...). I've also got a few darts. I'm a fair shot, though I'm training to use my left hand for it and consequently my accuracy has diminished of late.

I love it when it rains.

That's about it for me. Again, I'm stoked to be here and hoping I can get some help trying to find a good blade.

Cheers!
 
Welcome to Blade Forums.

I moved this from the traditional forum to an area that will get you better answers.
 
Paladin Sponge said:
4) has a definite cross-guard to help prevent me from slicing my fingers up should my hand slip
Click to expand...

Because I'm so damn generous I'll give you what's probably the best advice you'll ever hear on how to hold a knife securely. The greatest grip strength comes from the thumb. Don't rest your thumb on the back edge of the knife or let it lie across the back of your fingers. Grab the knife like a hammer and squeeze on the handle with the side of your thumb. It might not be too comfortable, but if the handle is well shaped it's going to require a monstrous amount of force to dislodge the knife from your grip even without a guard.

Both of those knives mentioned in your post look reasonably well built. I haven't handled either of them, but from the photo I would have higher expectations of the performance of the Randall. I would much rather have a dagger with a more acute point angle, but I can't think of a comparable one off the top of my head. I'll look around a bit today and see if I can find something specific to recommend.

edit: As long as you're looking to spend that much on the knife you might want to have one of the knife makers here put together a custom piece for you. Some of the makers who post here are incredibly skilled. Also be sure you know how the blade of the knife is ground before you buy it.
 
Gerber Mk II's, if you stumble on one. Fits everything you described, just a little hard to find. Older ones are Vietnam era, so your best bet is a late model stainless.
 
You don't say where you're located but a lot of states have issues with double edged knives. Seems like they are a felony here in illinois. YMMV
 
AfterTFD said:
The greatest grip strength comes from the thumb. Don't rest your thumb on the back edge of the knife or let it lie across the back of your fingers. Grab the knife like a hammer and squeeze on the handle with the side of your thumb. It might not be too comfortable, but if the
Click to expand...

I don't think that this is a correct statement or sensible advice in that generality. It depends, how the handle is shaped and what you are trying to do with a knife. It is also no question that the other four fingers combined develop a far greater grip strength than the thumb can. A well shaped handle like the one of the Manix or Lil'T allow for a rock solid grip even with out any use of the thumb at all.
 
Got to ask why you are picking this type of knife? I had a Gerber MK II back in the day, and all it was good for was stabbing. The bevel on the blade was so steep, that it really didn't have much of an edge on it. A knive needs to be thinner to have a descent edge.....
 
Since a knife like this is not a real general function knife, IMO I wouldn't drop a bundle on it. Here is one that will do the job, is tough as hell and simple to boot. Very sharp, good steel and cheaper than dirt. Like 25.00. CS Shanghai Shadow.

knifeandgun125iy6.jpg
 
HoB said:
It is also no question that the other four fingers combined develop a far greater grip strength than the thumb can.
Click to expand...

Perhaps I worded that clumsily. I didn't mean that the thumb is stronger than all of your other fingers together. I meant that the most secure grip possible requires the use of your thumb.
 
Welcome to the forums Paladin Sponge.

If you stick around, you'll find out that there are a lot of members here who don't consider their knives as weapons or buy their knives for self defense. The comment you made about the Buck you have is what brings a lot of people here. Just thought you should know that we don't talk about knife fighting on most of these threads so you might have more reasons to stick around.

Looks like you're looking at some quality stuff. Great choices. If you want something cheaper, you might be interested in a Zero Tolerance Military Boot Knife (3rd one down):

http://www.ztknives.us/ZT_Fixed.html
 
Wow, thanks for the overwhelming response all. Seriously. I didn't expect to get so many answers and perspectives. All right, now that I've gone through and read 'em...

I'm out of time. I got through replying up to UDT, but I've got to go. I'll post responses on my return, ETA 12 hours. Thanks again for the welcome and the answers. I appeciate them both.
 
Alright, back to writing.

Kaizen:

Thanks for the welcome. I realized that most of the people here aren't signing up for the same reasons I did. That said, I've done my research and bladeforums seems to draw the largest numbers of well-informed knife enthusiasts. If there exists at least one person who can point me in the right direction, he or she can probably be found here.

As for the suggestion. I'd use it if I had to. In fact, I just might. But, I'd toss it as soon as I got something better. Here's my reasoning:

1) I don't want a blood groove, 2) I don't want the coating, 3) I don't like how the bottom of the guard is a gentle slope to the handle, 4) the description says that the tang is "notched", 5) I'd prefer two bolts on the handle, and 6) the pommel is the wrong shape and has a hole in it.

I can't tell how thick the blade is or if the handle has the right shape to it.

That said, I like the steel and the double-edge. The top portion of the guard was good, if only it'd been paralleled by the bottom portion. I'd use it. I trust the steel and it has the basic features that I need. But if I found something that had more of these quirks shifted toward my tastes, the boot-knife would be relegated to opening letters.

UDT:

Thanks for the response. However, I've done a bit of research on cold steel. They're fine for, say, my katana and wakizashi. After all, those are strictly ceremonial and I have them for the same reason that rice is my staple of choice. Cold Steel is not fine for this. In a bit more detail, here are my thoughts:

The Taipan:

300 series stainless ain't what I want to bet my life on. The blade is too long and not thick enough. I want 6 inches and 1/4" thickness ideally, but definitely not more. The handle lacks the proper shape for my purposes and I'm not sure I trust the "shot on" method. The pommel would've almost made the grade, until they put a hole into it.

I did like the overall blade design. According to the literature, the balance is decent for my intended use. While I'd prefer an ogival-shaped pommel, this style would've been okay... until they put a hole in it.

The Shanghai:

Your opinion is noted however, I respectfully disagree with the point you're trying to make. True, I'm not looking for a general purpose knife. All the more reason to spend the cash and get something that fits the job perfectly. On the Shanghai: 1) I don't like the finish on the blade or the material, 2) it's an inch too long and way, way too thin, 3) the guard will not cut it for me, 4) I have no clue what Cold Steel was thinking when they made the handle, 5) the pommel simply will not do.

It's got a decent blade architecture, I especially like the broad leaf-like shape. I also like that they kept the blade fairly simple.

Thanks for the suggestions, but not what I'm looking for.

Terry:

Thank you ^_^

Feel free to weigh in. Whatever you've got, I'll take and examine. I can guarantee that any perspective lended to this is a bonus for me, and I just might learn something new.

Recon:

I'm picking this style knife because of how it's most likely to be used. As I'm sure one might've surmised by now, I'm an operator type, not a collector. Held in the left hand, blade out, and tip pointing towards my elbow, the first strike is disabling. The second strike is where the lethality lies, which is a stabbing motion. Hopefully, this explains why I'm looking for a knife with strong piercing properties and a double-edge.

I looked into Gerber MK II's awhile back. From what I could find, they had the same shortcoming, in my eyes, that the original sykes-fairbairn had: the thing came in too many pieces. Blade fits into guard which attaches to handle, and hopefully it won't break on impact. Further, they're collector pieces now. If I'm wrong and they do fit my requirements exactly, I'd still only get one to use if I had no other option. I'm sure there are plenty of people, especially on these forums, who'd love to have an authentic MK II and would be horrified to hear what I'm doing with it.

From what I think, 1/4" is about the best I can do for a trade-off. I'd love a razor sharp edge, but I like a lessened chance of breaking when striking bone even more. Perhaps a contoured edge would help offset it? Please, comment further if you've got the inclination.

OilMan:

It's illegal in my state, but I'm covered under an exemption.

tirod:

Thanks for the suggestion. As I'm doing this severely retroactively, check the second paragraph under my response to reconranger.

TFD:

Thanks for the tip however, I already fight like this. Sort of. I hold the knife in a reverse grip with my thumb along the handle.

I would've liked the Randall quite a bit. From what I recall, it seemed to fit my requirements near perfectly, or close enough. Unfortunately, I need it before 2012. I just included it in the original post to give an idea of what I'm looking for. If you find something, I'd be interested to know.

I'm looking into the custom option as well, but I think the law is scaring people away from my money. Just the whole double-edged thing adds a brutal element and I'm afraid very few people will bite. I'll keep searching, but as you can tell, there are a lot of craftsmen out there and sorting through it all to find ones that are able to make what I'm asking for and willing to do it is going to be difficult.

Could you explain blade grinding or direct me to other resources? I'm unfamiliar with the term.

Pete:

Thanks for the suggestion. I looked at Boker but just didn't like the multiple pieces and lack of a tang. It's built for deliberate strikes and does it very well. I'm looking for something that's built for fighting and does so very well.

Bastid:

I figured hey, fixed blades, I'm looking for fixed blades, all these blokes are talking about fixed blades... at any rate, thanks for the welcome and the relocation. Fixed blades!

---END---

On a side note, I kept mentioning the finish on the blades for some of my reviews. I had originally intended to put in a little blurb about it at the end, but after I finished editing, I forgot!

At any rate, not on the original requirements list is that I'd prefer a mirror finish. Reason being, it's easier to spot flaws and such, but also for signal purposes as well (calling in medevac, communicating without the radio to allies in line of sight, etc). If I found a knife that had everything I'm looking for but didn't have a mirror finish, it's not going to get disqualified from my selection.
 
Irashaimasen!

I am not knowledgeable about the subject, but based on your requirements (except for the mirror finish), the Fallkniven G1 Garm Fighter
might meet your needs:
g1-imagemap.jpg


It's full tang, V10 steel, very robust. But it has a black coating and not sure what your criteria for blade length is.

The Fallkniven mine clearance knife looks too big, but you might want to check it out and the other knives made by this company. :)

EDIT: the two knives in your original post look top notch, especially the Randall. You won't go wrong with the Randall.
 
Hey, thanks Ultra. I can't believe anyone else read all that. o.0

The requirements aren't set in stone. It's what I'd like in a perfect world. My ideal blade length is 6 inches, but I'll go as low as three. As for the mirror finish, it's just an option I'd keep my eye out for, not a requirement.

My overall impression of the G1 is that it's definitely a sturdy knife, though I don't know much about V10 steel.

The only thing I really find fault with is the guard. It's not definite enough. I'm looking more for a stop sign rather than a yield sign. I'm not a fan of rubber, has a tendency to break down more quickly than other materials for something that's going to be exposed to as much sunlight as this knife handle will be. The little eyelet on the bottom is unnecessary for me, otherwise the pommel might've been okay.

That said, I'm digging the blade and tang. Seems like a reliable piece. It's got a decent shape to the handle, not optimal, but I could use something like that. I especially like the way that the grip isn't a perfectly symmetrical circle, makes it easier to torque without slipping.

A good recommendation, I'd definitely consider using it until I got something better. Otherwise, yeah, the MC-1 was way too long for me. I ain't looking for a swordfight. In fact, I might just run if someone came at me with a sword.

The only thing that scares a crazy person is another crazy person.
 
HoB said:
It depends, how the handle is shaped and what you are trying to do with a knife. It is also no question that the other four fingers combined develop a far greater grip strength than the thumb can.
Click to expand...
Agreed. Sometimes control, or utilizing a knife's handle to extend reach, is more important than raw retention. I find I lose a lot of control of my blade's tip by holding my thumb against the side of the handle. In fact, I lose a lot of control, period.

For weapons use, I shy away from high-priced knives, as just about any reasonably good steel will do the job if the locks are decent. Double-edged weapons have a great advantage for obvious reasons, and a long, slim blade is good for stabbing while more belly in a knife blade is better for slashing through heavier clothing. And recently, I've gained a great appreciation for hawkbill knives. I would sure hate to face someone with a hawkbill.

.
 
Yeah, I noticed the same thing. It's not a pronounced difference for me to switch methods, but retention versus precision is a very easy question for me.

We've got a difference of opinion on the price issue. I mean, I'd love for the thing to be dirt cheap, not a problem there. But I don't mind paying for quality. In fact, I demand quality on the one knife I have that I most expect to lose or damage.

Aesthetically, I would've really liked to have gone tanto. I also like the single-edged blade's toughness (Double-edged have a better chance of breaking the tip). As for the long or wide line... I don't aim to slash through clothing. But I've got a good chance of piercing and then torquing and drawing. The draw is going to require a really sturdy blade, which long and thin won't give me. Six inches should be long enough to get past heavy clothing and hit something vital, while having a short enough stature to make a fairly sturdy weapon.

Hawkbills are wicked. My buddy has one on his tool-belt. Just... vicious.
 
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