Hello my name is Simon, and I like to make drawrings...

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Well my name isn't Simon (90's SNL skit), it is Brad but I do like to make drawings. In light of the poll currently going, I would like to hear some opinions, criticisms, and suggestions concerning my take on the theme.

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These were drawn considering the ideas presented in the poll thread and with my limited skills in mind. In other words I was aiming for designs that I can handle with my level of ability and tools available, with the exception of the slight recurve in #8. For the most part I tried for simple handles and blade shapes but still pleasing to the eye and hand. All are flat or convex grinds because that is what I can do.

Don't laugh at #6 but it is my latest try on a design suggested to me by a good friend with something specific in mind. He does a lot of squirrel hunting, most mornings in fact, and this is my idea of what he told me he wants, a "squirrel scalpel". Not sure about it yet and I'm going to have to make a wooden mock up first. I have not skinned a squirrel as of yet but in the name of research and to harken back to my own ancestry where they were stables of ones diet, I will probably give it a try in the next couple weeks. :eek:

#1 I am making two very similar knives to this one now. One in 1/8" 1080 and the other in 1/8" 52100.

#1 #2 and #5 I designed as Bird & Trout type although #2 is pretty big for such a task. It is for more remote trips where one might have need of a larger knife then a traditional B & T.

#8 was designed with the use of gloves in mind, hence the long handle.

#4 and #7 are my idea of a direct comparison of the ideas from the poll being applied to a basic hunter/skinner pattern. I like them both but prefer the more refined look of the "nub" (I actually call it the brad when torturing my wife with knife design babble) in #7 in addition to the added safety. One almost identical to #7 is currently in rough hack sawed form out of 1/8" 1080 awaiting profiling.

Some worries and concerns that I have are the finger choil on #3. Too small? It's the radius of a fifty cent piece which is way bigger than my fingers. And if Micarta or G-10 were used as handle material, is that little protrusion a risk to be easily damaged? The one that would protrude between ones index and middle fingers when gripping the knife.

Pin placement? The dotted pins indicate hidden pins to show off pretty stabilized wood scales. Lanyard holes are only there for an idea of how they would look. I personally use a lanyard on a few things and can see their use but at the same time I can live without them and for my early knives I doubt many will have them. But I am open to suggestions for where they might go best. The pins can be solid pins, mosaic pins, or corbys and my favorite mini corbys.

Do any of you experienced guys see anything that makes you think, "that might be tough for a new guy" or "he might like the way that looks but...".
Let me know your thoughts, good and bad, but especially what would you change or make better. Thanks for looking.
 
Depending on how you're grinding, extending the base of the blade below the edge line could cause you some difficulty on some work rests. If you are hand filing, it shouldn't really be a problem.

Don't sweat the squirrel scalpel, tools sometimes look strange when designed for utility instead of aesthetics. I would consider moving the edge start a little forward and slightly enlarging the front choil. Or perhaps just bringing the center of the front choil back, and enlarging it slightly.

On #3, you look pretty close on the choil, you can always sweep it back a little into the rest of the handle if you find it feeling too small.

I find myself drawing more as I become more experienced. It is so much easier and cheaper to make the adjustments on paper. Looks like you have a solid start.
 
I'm not really an experienced maker per se but my .02 is the double pin placement on 4,5, and 7 I'm not a bug fan of. If you're going to do a hidden pin just out one up front and do the hidden, or just two pins (or corby's) But good designs overall for the post part I think.
 
#7 is a WINNER.Well in my book it is.Kind of looks like a BK 14,which I think is a great EDC design.
Eddie
 
Depending on how you're grinding, extending the base of the blade below the edge line could cause you some difficulty on some work rests. If you are hand filing, it shouldn't really be a problem.

Hey Ian, thanks for the feed back. I'm not sure if I'm following you correctly. Are we talking about while doing the profile or when grinding in the bevels? It has been tricky in the profile stage but the bevel grinding stage it doesn't get in the way. I am grinding edge up if that matters.
 
Thanks too for the feedback from;

Fletch Helical - Got ya, negative vote on the double pins. I like the single pin thing too. Besides one pin is 50% easier.

gredpe3 - Thanks, I like those too. I have several wooden mock ups of this design and really like the feel.

PT Doc - Yeah that one ended up not being oriented square to the background grid. I drew that in perpendicular to the straight section of the edge and then tried to tilt the arc of the scales to be parallel with the plunge line. Awkward I agree but then sometimes I look at it and think that the 3 dimensional view will look different. Maybe a sweeping plunge would work better here.

Thanks again
 
So, me and my son vote for #3...but we don't like the size of the "kick" or whatever you call that squared off piece right in front of the slabs. And we think the slabs need to be a bit bigger.

#8 is a big winner, too, but same as above.
 
Chewy1, greetings from across the river, well and over the hills and through the woods on my side since I'm about an hour away from the river. By car that is, it took Daniel Boone more like 3 days to cover that same distance when he fled Chillicothe to warn Fort Boonesborough of the impending attack.

So you would like #3 better if the nub were even with the blade edge where they meet? That is certainly an area that I wonder a lot about. I can form the shape and make it look like in the pictures, but how practical is it. I like it on #1, #2, and #8. On #3 it defiantly can be trimmed back some. And more length to the scales or more width to the scales? I think length.

I haven't indicated any contour for any of the handles but on #3 I had in mind while sketching, those textured micarta slabs, the pyramids texture with the 1/8" contour and slightly dished out at the top of the finger choil so as to transition to smooth in that spot. Rest of the knives drawn I think more of a flattened oval cross section, fat palm swells and bulbous pommel ends where appropriate.
 
BTW Simon goes back much farther than SNL. I think it was cartoon on Captain Kangaroo.
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=simon+drawing+cartoon&FORM=VIRE1#

That's so cool. I loved Captain Kangaroo when I was little. I didn't remember that though until I looked at your link. I wonder if that is where Mike Meyers got that.

I like #5 a lot too. I have it traced out on some 1/8" 52100 but I'm not ready to cut it out any time soon. It could very well change some by the time I get around to it. If I like it as well as I think I will, then I'll try it in some 3/32" 52100.
 
I think they all look nice, but in my opinion the finger guards are too wide. I would bring the cutting edge closer to the grip by making the guard at most 1/4" (one square?). The shapes are sleek and the fat guard looks out of place.
 
Nice drawings. No need for a wide ricasso. Shorten them up and give the blade a longer cutting edge. I do like #3 a wee more
 
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