Help! Broadhead steel

L

LowSteelKnowlege

Joined
Jan 21, 2021
Messages
6
Hi guys...let me start by saying I have very limited knowledge of steels, however I'm having a guy make me some custom single bevel broadheads for an African buffalo hunt. I'm curious as to what you guys would use for the steel. So far it seems most guys I spoken to have recommended A2 or S30V and one guy said 154cm. Do you guys agree with any or all of those? Cost of the steel is not a concern...I just want the toughest head that will hopefully retain an edge all the way through the animal. Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
 
Honestly, I'd think edge retention would be low priority on an arrowhead; any half-decent steel should still be as sharp when you pull it out of the animal as when it goes in.
What's much more likely to happen is the cutting edge hitting a bone as it penetrates the animal, which would call for "toughness" over edge retention.
If, like most hunters, you touch up your arrowheads before each hunt, the thing I'd be concerned about is having the edge chip or the blade crack entirely.
A2 is used in combat knives because of its toughness (another scenario in which blade damage is most likely to come in the form of chipping rather than abrasive wear).
 
OrangeBlueOrangeBlue said:
Honestly, I'd think edge retention would be low priority on an arrowhead; any half-decent steel should still be as sharp when you pull it out of the animal as when it goes in.
What's much more likely to happen is the cutting edge hitting a bone as it penetrates the animal, which would call for "toughness" over edge retention.
If, like most hunters, you touch up your arrowheads before each hunt, the thing I'd be concerned about is having the edge chip or the blade crack entirely.
A2 is used in combat knives because of its toughness (another scenario in which blade damage is most likely to come in the form of chipping rather than abrasive wear).
Click to expand...
Thank you...I know it seems like a edge retention shouldn't matter for a broadhead that is only cutting for a fraction of a second but it does...with average commercially produced heads the blades on a head are noticeably dull after passing through an animal...even a light skinned animal like a deer. So that tells me that the blades are obviously dulling somewhat on the entry side ribcage and are then not as sharp as the could be going through the vitals....not a big deal on a deer but I want every advantage with water buffalo. I know some premium heads stay razor sharp after a pass through....I'm paying a good chunk of cash to get these made to my specs so I just want to make sure I'm using the best material available. Thanks again...I'll mark 1 vote for A2
 
I can't offer any advice here, I just wanted to say I think it's really awesome you're having custom heads made. This also shows the animal your respect, because I am sure you are looking for the most lethal build possible.

Awesome thread, and I look forward to seeing what people recomend.

I like to shoot bow. I have a bow tattoo actually, haha.

20210121-145603.jpg
 
LowSteelKnowlege said:
Thank you...I know it seems like a edge retention shouldn't matter for a broadhead that is only cutting for a fraction of a second but it does...with average commercially produced heads the blades on a head are noticeably dull after passing through an animal...even a light skinned animal like a deer. So that tells me that the blades are obviously dulling somewhat on the entry side ribcage and are then not as sharp as the could be going through the vitals....not a big deal on a deer but I want every advantage with water buffalo. I know some premium heads stay razor sharp after a pass through....I'm paying a good chunk of cash to get these made to my specs so I just want to make sure I'm using the best material available. Thanks again...I'll mark 1 vote for A2
Click to expand...

Most of the broadheads you see at outdoor stores are unspecified "stainless steel," which is a very bad sign in terms of steel quality. If you're using anything worthwhile, you'd name it; even the company that makes the flatware I eat with discloses what alloy it uses. For example, Grizzly broadheads are advertised as using 1055 carbon steel at 52 HRC (which is well below the 60+ HRC you'd harden it to for a knife, so clearly favoring toughness over edge retention).
 
dano said:
Jeez...it isn't going to matter all that much. It has one job to do, maybe one time. Most use something similar to S7 or 41L40...basic tool steels. Don't overthink it, as there isn't a whole lot of difference between all these materials.
Click to expand...
This↑↑↑
I would be more concerned with design than what steel they are made of. All the arrow needs to do is poke a hole through the tissue. Using the right broadhead with a heavy arrow for penetration is more of the issue. As long as the steel is soft enough that it doesn't deform or break when it hits something pretty much anything will work.
 
dano said:
Jeez...it isn't going to matter all that much. It has one job to do, maybe one time. Most use something similar to S7 or 41L40...basic tool steels. Don't overthink it, as there isn't a whole lot of difference between all these materials.
Click to expand...

He doesn't sound like the type of hunter who is only going to use these once.
 
Billy The Hungry said:
He doesn't sound like the type of hunter who is only going to use these once.
Click to expand...
You only count on using it once. You need to sharpen it again if it survived and was recovered intact. Its not like slicing up cardboard boxes. The arrow is being driven through flesh, cartilage and bone by a significant amount of kinetic energy. Its pretty easy to deform at least the edge. For example, using a 400gr arrow being driven at 300 fps (pretty much what you'd need when hunting big game like a water buffalo) that generates about 79 ft/lbs of force. Something like a 125gr Zwickey Eskimo with a 1 5/8" or better width would be just fine.
 
Arathol said:
You only count on using it once. You need to sharpen it again if it survived and was recovered intact. Its not like slicing up cardboard boxes. The arrow is being driven through flesh, cartilage and bone by a significant amount of kinetic energy. Its pretty easy to deform at least the edge. For example, using a 400gr arrow being driven at 300 fps (pretty much what you'd need when hunting big game like a water buffalo) that generates about 79 ft/lbs of force. Something like a 125gr Zwickey Eskimo with a 1 5/8" or better width would be just fine.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't use a zwickey on a buffalo...my set up is shooting a 717 grain finished weight arrow at
Arathol said:
You only count on using it once. You need to sharpen it again if it survived and was recovered intact. Its not like slicing up cardboard boxes. The arrow is being driven through flesh, cartilage and bone by a significant amount of kinetic energy. Its pretty easy to deform at least the edge. For example, using a 400gr arrow being driven at 300 fps (pretty much what you'd need when hunting big game like a water buffalo) that generates about 79 ft/lbs of force. Something like a 125gr Zwickey Eskimo with a 1 5/8" or better width would be just fine.
Click to expand...
We've kinda gotten off course here but I definitely wouldn't use a zwickey with my Africa set-up. I shoot an 83lb bow delivering a 727 grain total weight arrow at 244fps...just a shade under 100ft/lbs of KE....the only heads I trust on dangerous game are one piece premium 2 blades. Dont get me wrong here I appreciate all the feed back but I'm not looking for archery/broadhead advice...I have that under control. It's just that I dont have any of the knowledge of steels like you guys do. In the past I've used A2, 440C, and s30v heads from premium broadhead manufacturers. I just thought since I was spending all this money to have them made in the specs I desired I'd check with guys on this forum to see if there was a better steel to use than the ones I mentioned before I go give him the payment and go-ahead on the work order. Again I appreciate everyone's input. Once I get them made I'll post some pics and specs on here if you're interested in checking them out.
 
What steel or brand and type of broadhead does your African hunting guide recommend?

Your hunting guide's primary job is to bring you out alive. Since he or she has booked you for an archery hunt for Cape Buffalo (one of the three most deadly/dangerous critters on the continent, if not on this planet) I doubt you're his or her first archery client.

Listen to their input, based on "been there done that" rather than a bunch of guys on a knife forum who have likely never hunted dangerous game in their life, with bow or gun.

Good luck on your hunt. :)
 
Last edited:
If the guy custom making your broad heads doesn’t STRONGLY recommend something he is very familiar with and has the utmost confidence in he wouldn’t be my choice.

Your PH should definitely be able to point you in the right direction. I’m sure you could find out the specifics on what previous successful and unsuccessful hunters have used and their thoughts after the fact.

Good luck, stay safe.

I want pics when you get back.
 
afishhunter said:
What steel or brand and type of broadhead does your African hunting guide recommend?

Your hunting guide's primary job is to bring you out alive. Since he or she has booked you for an archery hunt for Cape Buffalo (one of the three most deadly/dangerous critters on the continent, if not on this planet) I doubt you're his or her first archery client.

Listen to their input, based on "been there done that" rather than a bunch of guys on a knife forum who have likely never hunted dangerous game in their life, with bow or gun.

Good luck on your hunt. :)
Click to expand...
They are cool with any well made one piece...this will be my forth buffalo in africa with a bow. Again...I know the heads I used in the past can and do work. I'm just having fun with this broadhead build. I designed it on the computer with the specifications I chose after testing different profiles, sizes, weights, degree of bevel etc. for flight, penetration, and rotation for almost a year. I know heads I've killed previous buffalo with will do the job and I know it's kinda silly but I guess I just want to have them made from the "best" material possible since after designing it it's kinda "my" broadhead and I have countless hours invested in getting it just right. I just spoke to the guy that's gonna make them and I think I'm gonna let him decide between A2 and s30v because he said he has a lot of experience with both and has confidence with both. And yes 3fifty7 I'll absolutely get back on here and show you guys the heads and some pics of my buff if I'm blessed with another opportunity at "Black Death" Thanks again everyone for taking the time to help a guy without much knowledge of steel and not making me feel stupid Its much appreciated.
 
Billy The Hungry said:
He doesn't sound like the type of hunter who is only going to use these once.
Click to expand...
There are a lot of ifs involved but it's not out of the question to use them more than once. And actually he should have some made to practice with since different styles and weights will fly differently. He can have others that come presharpened for actual use on game.
I've noticed that a lot of people use 80CRV2 for swords so it sounds like a tough steel.
 
I think there’s one steel that can answer nearly all questions about which blade steel to use, and that is CruWear/Z-Wear. Perfect for everything, except for a diving knife I suppose. Perfect all rounder. It should hold up better than S30V when hitting bone, and it’d be better at keeping it’s edge than A2. I think CruWear would make one helluva broadhead. 3V and M4 would be top tier choices too, I’d imagine.

Between A2, S30V, or 154cm.. I’d choose A2 or 154cm. 154 if you’d prefer stainless, A2 if you want carbon steel instead. S30V wouldn’t be a bad choice, but depending on it’s heat treat it could chip hitting anything hard and dense like a Buffalo bone.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top