help - cutting s35vn?

fishface5

fishface5

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Feb 3, 2001
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I thought the point of this stuff was that it was relatively easy to work??
Need help from the pros here - I have a sheet of .085" stock, I was able to drill the holes to outline the blade blanks easily enough, but trying to cut them out it just dulls my home depot bandsaw blades without cutting at all, and when I resorted to dremel cutting wheels it is taking forever. And I drilled a lot of holes!!! Any suggestions for how to get this done without needing to make any serious tool investments? Thanks!
 
What kind of bandsaw? Woodcutting or metal?

I find S35vn to be pretty clean and easy to work with. Get a really good bi metal hacksaw blade, and drill holes close then get after with some elbow grease. Use a good drill bit, an american made one made for metal. Make sure your using the right or close to speed and feed rate for that drill bit and you can drill a ton of holes quickly, something in the 1/4" size then just connect the holes with the hacksaw. Should be super quick with the .085 stock. Ive done a similar approach with .188 and .250 absolute hell but still doable. Good music and determination go a long way =)
 
I use a reciprocating saw, at first I just tried cutting it straight through and burnt the blade in about 3 cm. I learned to cut the metal for a few seconds then cool the blade down in water. For your band saw make sure not to overheat the blade. On my reciprocating saw it takes about 15 seconds of hard cutting to heat the blade too much. Drilling worked even better for me. I basically found the best is what tin.man said to drill lots of small holes and then cut away i just use the reciprocating saw instead of hack saw.
 
Recip saws and a band saw set at too fast a speed will destroy the blade in seconds cutting any stainless steel. Use a good bi-metal blade, like a Lenox Die-Master blade (HF blades are no good) and cut at the slowest speed the band saw has. I have cut hundreds of S35VN blades on a HF band saw. Also, don't force the metal hard into the blade....Cutting speed is about an inch or two a minute, depending on thickness of the steel.
 
I don't understand the point of drilling holes around the profile if you have a bandsaw to cut it out. It sounds to me like you probably work hardened the steel drilling the holes. I cut S35VN in 1/8" and 5/32" thicknesses daily on a porta-band saw with no issues. I run my Lenox 14TPI blades at about 90FPM and let the saw do the cutting. I get about 15-20 S35VN knife blanks out of a blade.

Bob
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
that has not been my experience using the "supercut blades" from Harbor Freight. I find them to last longer and do not break all the time like the Starrett blades.

I used Starrett for years and got tired of the weld breaking and have to pay for a new blade which gets expensive really fast.

With the HF blade it cuts just as well and if it breaks within 3 months I just take it back for a brand new blade. I have not paid for a new blade in a year.

With the Starrett is was $25 each time and they broke all the time within a couple of months.

If somone lives close to a Harbor freight I suggest buying their "Supercut" blades and keeping your reciept for an exchange. They exchange it within 90 days with no problem. With the Starrett blades you are just out $25 each time they break.
Click to expand...
 
Good info thanks! I need to check if I can reduce the speed on my bandsaw, if not I guess it's time for a hacksaw party . . .
 
good to know about destroying the blade. what happens to the steel if its cut too fast?
 
Good to know that they have upgraded their blades. I'll have to try some. There is an HF right down the street. I have had such good success with Lenox blades that I automatically recommend them.
 
HF sells "Supercut" blades. They are actually made in Idaho.

But the HF brand of blades are horrible.

Just wanted to be sure everyone knows it is the "Supercut" blades at HF I am talking about.
 
I use this steel a lot, I trace the profile on the steel, then using a grinder with a 1mm (0.04") cutting disc I rough profile the shape, then off to the belt grinder with a worn 36 grit belt (never use new belts for profiling) to finish the shape, if it has closed curves I use a straight grinder (kinda a dremel but heavier) with a diamond coated tool.


Pablo
 
PEU said:
I use this steel a lot, I trace the profile on the steel, then using a grinder with a 1mm (0.04") cutting disc I rough profile the shape, then off to the belt grinder with a worn 36 grit belt (never use new belts for profiling) to finish the shape, if it has closed curves I use a straight grinder (kinda a dremel but heavier) with a diamond coated tool.


Pablo
Click to expand...

I know this has been argued to death, but putting a 1mm disc on a grinder and cutting a profile is a really bad idea.....REALLY BAD!
Advising an inexperienced amateur to do it could end up tragically. Be careful what you put on a forum, because any 13 year old can read this forever.
 
Let's make sure what type of "bandsaw" the OP has - is it a wood type bandsaw? OR a true metal cutting bandsaw like a portaband saw?

I'll be sure to check the HF "supercut" blades.

Ken H>
 
Stacy, maybe I expressed it wrong, if used properly an angle grinder is a good tool for the job. Of course if you take no precautions sh!t will hit the fan pretty fast...


Pablo
 
Stacy great points, I work with guys who have the terrible scars to prove how dangerous a cutoff wheel exploding at 13,000 rpm (at the center) truly is, trust me if you don't know what your doing you will quickly injure yourself, the thinner the cutoff whel the more dangerous they are, NEVER EVER side load.
 
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