Help drilling out flared tubes

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Aug 12, 2006
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Super frustrated today. I split 4 tubes in a row and the first 2 were such a pita to ge out that I am throwing in the towel for today. Does anyone have a trick to removing a split tube once it starts spinning?

Btw- 1/4" x .020 304 stainless in paper micarta. 82 degree countersunk with 82 degree dies on a half ton arbor press. (I know someone would ask for details:))
 
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Try filing the inside of the tube with either a chainsaw or triangular file.

Go as thin as you dare, you can almost go right through, but stop short so you don't hit the handle material.

Repeat that at 90 degrees.

Once you've done that, you should be able to punch the tube in to collapse on itself, needle nose pliers may help.
Then drop it out the hole.

It's not a fast way.
 
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I have had success by pushing them out using a 1/4 bolt on the press. You may have to pinch one end together to give the bolt more to press against.
 
Try filing the inside of the tube with either a chainsaw or triangular file.

Go as thin as you dare, you can almost go right through, but stop short so you don't hit the handle material.

Repeat that at 90 degrees.

Once you've done that, you should be able to punch the tube in to collapse on itself, needle nose pliers may help.
Then drop it out the hole.

It's not a fast way.

I pretty much agree with this method. Once they start spinning it gets frustrating very quickly.
 
Try putting a 1/4" drill in a vice, tap the part down onto the drill a tad, then drill it out from the top. The lower drill will help keep it from spinning, or (possibly) it will spin anyway but the lower drill can do the cutting.
 
Thanks a lot guys for the advice. I only had about ten minutes to give one of these a try today so I started filing the inside of the tube. After 5 minutes I barely put a scratch in it so you are right, it is not a fast process (and my files suck). I then got out the dremel with a carbide bit and surprisingly it was much the same. Perhaps I'll try it again when I have more time.

I'm not quite sure if I understand the bolt method. Since both sides of the tube are flared I can't really expect the tube to come out that way without serious pressure and coinciding damage. I'll think on it some more though.

The drill bit sounds interesting and I'll give that's shot next.

Typically I just keep at it with.a drill and a lot of pressure until something gives and then attack it with pliers but when all the micarta stars getting shaved off it kinda hurts.

As a side question, is nickel silver more malleable and less prone to split? I still haven't sourced any but I'll keep trying.

Thanks again!
 
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Thanks Leif, I did not know that. In the past I suggested to USAknifemaker to stock the nickel silver in their inventory and they seemed receptive.
 
We have drilled them out with a 1/4" bit and have also pinched the "flare" together with a pair of needle nose pliers allowing it to be pushed thru..I dont care for the filing out method..
 
The only wall diameter Jantz has is a whopping .038!!! Believe me I have searched hign and low but I still haven't found what I'm looking for.

I need to get some pointier pliers. They are flared out pretty well against the handle with VERY little room to grab a hold. Maybe tonight I'll try again.
 
You can order .020 from usaknifemakers I believe, and also speedymetals has just about any size stainless rod you could ask for..Its also much,much cheaper than knife supply companys..You can get about 3' of 1/8" stainless rod from most steel suppliers for what 1' would cost at a knife supply company. The only drawback is shipping is generally a bit high.
 
Hmm. My search on USAknifemaker still has no nickel silver in 1/4" by .020 (I never did like threir search function). I'll give them a call and speedy as well since I never found it on their sight in the past.

edit: called them both and USAknifemaker doesn't carry any nickel silver tubing and the guy at SpeedMetals never heard of nickel silver (or naval brass for that matter). Still at a loss.
 
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You can order .020 from usaknifemakers I believe, and also speedymetals has just about any size stainless rod you could ask for..Its also much,much cheaper than knife supply companys..You can get about 3' of 1/8" stainless rod from most steel suppliers for what 1' would cost at a knife supply company. The only drawback is shipping is generally a bit high.

Mcmaster has free 1 day shipping.

Hmm. My search on USAknifemaker still has no nickel silver in 1/4" by .020 (I never did like threir search function). I'll give them a call and speedy as well since I never found it on their sight in the past.

edit: called them both and USAknifemaker doesn't carry any nickel silver tubing and the guy at SpeedMetals never heard of nickel silver (or naval brass for that matter). Still at a loss.

Mcmaster is your friend.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#silver-brazing-rods/=mnc05q
http://www.mcmaster.com/#naval-brass/=mnc0g4

I'm a fanboy, what can I say?
 
I epoxy the tang area and carefully put in my tube during glue up. This generally stops the tube from spinning if it has to be drilled out.

A burr on a dremel or flexshaft is great for fast or slow metal removal in tight spots.
 
Of course you're right Dan. I just hate to mix up epoxy to do two tubes and wait a day until I can flare them but it is the right thing to do so next time I will (although I am not that patient and will probably have to use some 5 minute stuff).

Is it just me? I checked McMaster before and I checked it again with your links but I still can't find it.
 
Of course you're right Dan. I just hate to mix up epoxy to do two tubes and wait a day until I can flare them but it is the right thing to do so next time I will (although I am not that patient and will probably have to use some 5 minute stuff).

Is it just me? I checked McMaster before and I checked it again with your links but I still can't find it.
Whoops, I'm a dumb*** They only have nickel silver in 3/64 and 1/16. Ignore me, I'm an idiot.
 
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