HELP First EDC Purchase Spyderco Dragonfly 2 VS CRKT EROS 2

I appreciate all the input you guys put in for my next big EDC purchase. I decided that I'll go with the Spyderco Dragonfly 2 VG10 version.
I'm debating between colors though, Black or Orange. I'll figure that out with my personal preference.
Thank you all again. This was truly great helpful experience in blade forum.
 
I strongly advise you buy the Dragonfly....
1. Orange... Spend the extra bucks on the G-10 model, it's my EDC, and by EDC I mean it, I carry this beast every-single-day, I love it, FRN just doesn't do its justice to me. It's in my pocket as I type this.
2. The design is great, I wear large size gloves and it feels like an extension of my arm
3. G-10 Model: 2 ounces
4. Clip is inconspicuous and is strong, and if it gets loose over time, just unscrew it, and tighten it with pliers, good as new.
5. Good blade design, it's got a good tip for detail work and has a nice belly for slicing. I never felt like I needed a larger blade than this one
6. The VG-10 is good, it's no super steel but it works well and takes an edge quickly.
7. And most importantly, you'll have Spydercos amazing customer service.
Buy it, buy once cry once. Thank me later brotha.
Also I suggest looking into the ZDP Dragonfly, you might like it
 
Never had an Eros but used to have a Dragonfly2, VG10 & black. I am glad you're leaning that direction and would recommend that, for use around USC, choose an inconspicuous color. Also, how I close the knife one-handed (as seen on my Caly3 with similar design as I no longer have the dragonfly2 for pictures):

P1010386.JPG
P1010387.JPG


It's less safe but more fluid than other methods, just an option for you.
 
That G-10 version Dragonfly looks awesome. It's a bit more expensive to my taste though. I have FRN orange version and G10 version is almost twice as expensive as that.
It looks nice but I don't know if I would ever need to use G10. Thanks for showing me yours though.


Oh thanks Chiral, I found out by playing with my dragonfly 2 that I can open and close with one hand pretty easily.
Is that Caly 3 in that picture?
I was thinking about getting that actually. I liked how it's got real Carbon Fiber scales. How do you like it?
 
The G10 is honestly the bells and whistles version of the Dragonfly, you don't really 'need' it....that being said the upgrades are worth it, it's up to you if you want to fork out that amount. Also on another note ZDP is not as easy to sharpen as VG-10.
 
True G10 liners are pretty awesome. I was going to get that ZDP blade but I heard it's hard to sharpen and not very rust resistant so I just got VG-10 version. So far I'm very contended with it. SOG Bluto I have is also VG-10 and it's sharp out of the box. I'm happy with my dragonfly 2 FRN!
 
kms7852 said:
Oh thanks Chiral, I found out by playing with my dragonfly 2 that I can open and close with one hand pretty easily.
Is that Caly 3 in that picture?
I was thinking about getting that actually. I liked how it's got real Carbon Fiber scales. How do you like it?
Click to expand...

Yup, CF caly3 with 420/ZDP blade. It's my only Spyderco now (I gave my Dragonfly2 to a knifeless friend), and it makes a slick gentleman's folder. Note, i only paid ~$80, that's pretty much my limit for folders. The Caly3 is a perfect size for me, i love the blade shape and like the ZDP, have had no rust or chipping issues and it holds its edge well, sharpens quickly on a diamond-plate. It is in my pocket as i type this. It does have its issues, however, most of which i detail in a comparison review here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...r-knives-and-a-TIMOS-handmade-knife-(feature)

I really liked the Dragonfly2 in black FRN, a slick little light-weight blade, and its new owner likes it alot as well, it gets carried and used everyday. I am glad that you are happy with your purchase :thumbup:
 
Nice CF Caly 3 runs about $125 lowest in Ebay. You got a great deal getting one in $80. I think I have the addiction. I want to buy another folder and debating between Caly 3 or Chaparral.
ZDP-189 had that rusting issue that people talked about and it's real hard to sharpen. I like the VG-10 blade so far because it's easy to sharpen and it doesn't rust easily. I know it doesn't hold the edge as ZDP though. I guess both got pros and cons.

I've read your comparison thread and it was very helpful. It's pouring more gas on to my kni addiction definitely haha.
So I'm debating if I should spend next $100 bucks on buying sharp maker, strop and compound to maintain my blades sharp or just buy another blade?
I don't have the correct sharpening system yet and I'm contemplating if I should get into the "freehand" of sharpening. I've done it before but that itself is a long and exhausting process...
What do you suggest as a knife enthusiast?
 
I returned the DF because I it didn't have the small protrusion (nipple)to prevent the finger from contacting the blade on the forward choil unlike many other 50/50 spydies. I don't know if it's an issue or not but it was just too close for comfort. Great knife, though. I prefer the Twitch 2 for light tasks. The DF is relatively expensive.
 
kms7852 said:
Nice CF Caly 3 runs about $125 lowest in Ebay. You got a great deal getting one in $80. I think I have the addiction. I want to buy another folder and debating between Caly 3 or Chaparral.
ZDP-189 had that rusting issue that people talked about and it's real hard to sharpen. I like the VG-10 blade so far because it's easy to sharpen and it doesn't rust easily. I know it doesn't hold the edge as ZDP though. I guess both got pros and cons.

I've read your comparison thread and it was very helpful. It's pouring more gas on to my kni addiction definitely haha.
So I'm debating if I should spend next $100 bucks on buying sharp maker, strop and compound to maintain my blades sharp or just buy another blade?
I don't have the correct sharpening system yet and I'm contemplating if I should get into the "freehand" of sharpening. I've done it before but that itself is a long and exhausting process...
What do you suggest as a knife enthusiast?
Click to expand...

Apologies for the delayed reply.

I haven't had rusting issues with my ZDP189 Caly3, but I use it often and not much in corrosive environments.
For honing, i usually use the perforated DMT diamond plates (e.g. DMT Deluxe Aligner Kit can be had for ~$50, DiaFold for ~$25) as they are very light and work as well on ZDP189 as on 420HC, etc. The diamonds are so much harder than the steel & carbides that there is not a difference in sharpening time between mid-grade and high-carbide steels. I don't have a sharpmaker though lots of folk seem to like'm, but I prefer plates to rods for major sharpening because the wider surface stabilizes the blade against the hone as you sharpen, prevents your hand/wrist from inadvertently altering the angle during the pass, producing a more uniform grind. I did make a strop and bought some polishing compound, but i only use that for my straight-razors where a finish <5 micron is noticeably advantageous. Everything else ends with a single pass along a DMT plate of chosen grit at slightly higher angle to apex the bevel and I'm good to go :thumbup:

If there is a LOT of damage or I want to bring the bevel angle down more than a few degrees, then I'll bring out the wide waterstones or Norton Crystolon stone (all inherited). I haven't tried these on the Caly3's ZDP but i have re-beveled CPM-3V and M390 blades on them without issue.

As a knife enthusiast, I recommend getting a simple, light-weight set-up like the sharpmaker or DMT hones and learning about edge-finish (coarse vs. fine, what works best for your use), angle-control, and apexing a bevel (i.e. the microbevel). Much of this can be done simply holding the hone in hand. The angle-guide can then be used to assist in producing a uniform bevel and thinning out your knives behind the edge to improve performance (if needed). If you then become obsessed with restoring knives or re-profiling, it's time to invest in a more expensive system ;)

Good luck with the addiction. :cool:
 
donozo said:
I returned the DF because I it didn't have the small protrusion (nipple)to prevent the finger from contacting the blade on the forward choil unlike many other 50/50 spydies. I don't know if it's an issue or not but it was just too close for comfort. Great knife, though. I prefer the Twitch 2 for light tasks. The DF is relatively expensive.
Click to expand...

It's funny, but the lack of that integral guard before the choil (most Spydies actually feature a notchless choil with an enlarged ricasso mistakenly referred to as a 'choil') is a major reason i chose the DF2 and Caly3 over other Spydercos. If ever i purchase a Mule, the first thing I would do is grind off that silly guard, like Mr-No on the Spyderco forum: http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?31531-Show-your-Mule&p=714883&viewfull=1#post714883

o76omp.jpg
 
I was looking at Twitch 2 and that's one on top of my list that I want to get. I really like how slim and crisp action on those.
There isn't a nipple on the DF but the shape of the handle actually prevents you to not hurt your hand by slipping. Also, the FRN or G10 handle makes it hard for you to slip the handle.
I have SOG myself and I like them. Twitch 2 sounds great for EDC.

donozo said:
I returned the DF because I it didn't have the small protrusion (nipple)to prevent the finger from contacting the blade on the forward choil unlike many other 50/50 spydies. I don't know if it's an issue or not but it was just too close for comfort. Great knife, though. I prefer the Twitch 2 for light tasks. The DF is relatively expensive.
Click to expand...
 
No problem.
I am debating exactly the same sharpening system you mentioned.
DMT Aligner with Medium, Fine, Extra Fine, Extra Extra Fine.
OR
DMT Magna Guide with Diafold (Medium and Fine) and (EF/ EEF)
OR
Sharpmaker with Ultra Fine Rods.

Like you said, I do agree on getting a "light-weight set-up" for now although I want Edge pro or Wicked Edge or Work Sharp sometime later.
I'm planning on sharpening mainly my EDC knives which are DF or Sog Bluto and maybe some more 3 inch knives more.
Sometimes, I would like to sharpen my kitchen knives as well.... about 8 inch long Shun Damascus Kitchen Knives.
I know how to free hand but my skills are not perfect... so I thought Sharpamker would be easy because it is fool proof but I really like the fact that DMT Diamond Sharpeners are much harder material that can sharpen a knife fast....
Such a dilemma... I wish I have money to get both haha....

From your experience was sharpening a long Kitchen Knife with DMT Aligner or DMT Magna Guide was hard because the rod was too short or the stones are too small?

Oh the strap, I just got an old leather strap, I started putting Bar Keepers Friend on it and start stropping my blade. I hope that isn't the stupidest thing I'm doing now hahaha

What sharpening system do you recommend? DMT ?
Please enlighten me,
thanks.





chiral.grolim said:
Apologies for the delayed reply.

I haven't had rusting issues with my ZDP189 Caly3, but I use it often and not much in corrosive environments.
For honing, i usually use the perforated DMT diamond plates (e.g. DMT Deluxe Aligner Kit can be had for ~$50, DiaFold for ~$25) as they are very light and work as well on ZDP189 as on 420HC, etc. The diamonds are so much harder than the steel & carbides that there is not a difference in sharpening time between mid-grade and high-carbide steels. I don't have a sharpmaker though lots of folk seem to like'm, but I prefer plates to rods for major sharpening because the wider surface stabilizes the blade against the hone as you sharpen, prevents your hand/wrist from inadvertently altering the angle during the pass, producing a more uniform grind. I did make a strop and bought some polishing compound, but i only use that for my straight-razors where a finish <5 micron is noticeably advantageous. Everything else ends with a single pass along a DMT plate of chosen grit at slightly higher angle to apex the bevel and I'm good to go :thumbup:

If there is a LOT of damage or I want to bring the bevel angle down more than a few degrees, then I'll bring out the wide waterstones or Norton Crystolon stone (all inherited). I haven't tried these on the Caly3's ZDP but i have re-beveled CPM-3V and M390 blades on them without issue.

As a knife enthusiast, I recommend getting a simple, light-weight set-up like the sharpmaker or DMT hones and learning about edge-finish (coarse vs. fine, what works best for your use), angle-control, and apexing a bevel (i.e. the microbevel). Much of this can be done simply holding the hone in hand. The angle-guide can then be used to assist in producing a uniform bevel and thinning out your knives behind the edge to improve performance (if needed). If you then become obsessed with restoring knives or re-profiling, it's time to invest in a more expensive system ;)

Good luck with the addiction. :cool:
Click to expand...
 
I like it! I'm not a fan of that shape of the blade (a fat blade) but I have to say the factory edge is incredibly razor sharp. And the action is great. Flipper is not as easy. you'll have to use the wrist motion to flick it with the flipper with some practice. Thumbstuds flicking is better if you want fast speed too. The lock is nice. Arc-Lock, is like a Axis Lock from Benchmade so I think it's very similar action there.
I use SOG bluto in a dressy, not casual occasion because it has deep carry clip where you can't see the blade at ALL when you use that clip into your pants. The colors and the handles are much more luxurious than DF2 as you can imagine.
Blade is about the same though as DF2. VG10... Very good blade.
Yup I like it but I know it's expensive. I got it as a gift. Thanks to him!
Definitely High end blade in sub 2.5 inch area. With 80 bucks you can get Dragonfly 2 G10 version but Sog Bluto can do one hand opening with Arc Lock more crisp action than back lock.
I hope this answers many questions.

NeilB said:
What do you think about the Bluto? Did the QC gods smile on you? I'm on the fence about getting one.
Click to expand...
 
kms7852 said:
From your experience was sharpening a long Kitchen Knife with DMT Aligner or DMT Magna Guide was hard because the rod was too short or the stones are too small?
Click to expand...

Nah, for long blades I don't use the angle guide, just hold the hone by the handle and swipe it along the blade or swipe the blade along the hone, free-hand. Keeping a steady angle is more challenging without a guide and a wide hone, but it's fairly easy to establish a razor-sharp micro-bevel this way. HOWEVER wider hones are less effective on recurve blades like that SOG, round or triangular hones like on the sharpmaker or the serration-rod from the DMT deluxe kit (or that specific diafold) would be better for that.
Personally i have no experience with the sharpmaker, just other crok-stick set-ups, and i prefer my DMT kit. Most of the time I don't use the angle-guide but it is there in case i want to establish an even bevel on a short blade. You get more for less $$ with the DMT Aligner Deluxe kit and can even add another hone-grit for the same price as a sharpmaker. The DMT magna-kit is more expensive, lacks the rod for recurves/serrations, and includes the EE-fine hone which you may never need (I stop at E-fine for all but shaving razors) but the hones or easily pocketed in their own handles for free-hand use as described above. If I were to make the purchase again, I'd get the 4-hone magna-kit since I don't use many recurves and like the free-hand pocketability of the hones. Just my $0.02.
 
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