Help getting set up for knife making

I think the very best book out there is "How to make knives" by Bob Loveless. It has three parts. 1. stock removal, 2. forging, 3. making a knife without power tools.
I also think a good 2"x72" grinder and lots of practice are a must.
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Bow Commander said:
Thank you for the detail. I appreciate it. What brand of bits do you prefer? I was trying to research good bits for metal drilling.



Ahh love it! All those shapes and size blanks get me excited. I can't wait to make my wife a santoku or chef knife, and my son a hunting knife. The main plan for my hobby is get good enough to where I can sell my knives and support my newly planted church with the money from the sale. Kind of like my own ministry.

So you cut all those blanks out with the portaband, then use the belt grinder for detail shaping?
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I started with cheap titanium coated bits and with stainless steel, the metal can work harden and your screwed. I bought a set of Drill Hog USA M42 Cobalts and they're great. The small ones broke (need to send back under warranty) but .125 and up are awesome. These cut extremely well.
 
Bow Commander said:
Hey all,

Long time lurker here. I'm finally making my desire to make knives, a reality. I'm going to be buying some equipment to get set up for it. I'd like to make fixed blade knives cut from metal blanks. I have a drill press, and a vice. I think I'm going to get the Grizzly 2x72 belt sander. What else do you recommend as being a useful tool to start with? I think I'll still need something to cut out the blanks. Would a vertical metal cutting bandsaw be best for that? Angle grinder if going for next cheapest? Feel free to suggest very specific brands and items. I'd like to start adding items to my work bench soon. I know I'll need good files. Are there specific shape files you guys use? Are some made for wood, some made for metal? I have the David Boye step by step to knife making book, and will start reading through it, but wanted to get opinions here. Thanks for suggestions, I'll be reading them very intentionally.
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Well , this is how I start .I make a lot of knives just with angle grinder and metal file.Than I make one grinder , then I make another one grinder .Then I realize that they can t do all I need and start to build contact wheel grinder ..... Then I realize that I need disk sander .Then I realize that disk sander can t do all I need and start to build horizontal grinder with small wheel attachment.Then I realize that I need to stop using heat treat ovens of my friend and start to build one........ endless story my friend , never enough tools :D
 
T.L.E. Sharp said:
I forget the name, but I've seen someone who makes a vertical mount and stabilizer for a metal cutting band saw. The chop variety. So you're looking a few hundred dollars rather than a few thousand. I'm sure it's not ideal, but might be a more cost effective way to get up and running. A horizontal toggle clamp is also a nice inexpensive investment. Makes sanding or stoning the sides of a blade a lot more pleasant, not having to chase it all over the bench. Then of course there's the abrasives and dust management...
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SWAG is Whom makes those , I have one for my Dewalt bandsaw.
 
Love my Swag Off-road table for the portaband. I have the milwaukee band saw. It makes profiling the blade and handle a piece of cake. I use bimetal blades off amazon, each one will cut out a few dozen blades, just dont push too hard, that will make the band-saw blades wear out really quickly. Besides my drill press and my grinder this is the most used piece of equipment in my shop.
 
Daniel Swanson said:
Love my Swag Off-road table for the portaband. I have the milwaukee band saw. It makes profiling the blade and handle a piece of cake. I use bimetal blades off amazon, each one will cut out a few dozen blades, just dont push too hard, that will make the band-saw blades wear out really quickly. Besides my drill press and my grinder this is the most used piece of equipment in my shop.
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That really seems the way to go. I'll probably go that route! Cutting blanks was one of my biggest concerns getting started, but this seems like an excellent route to go.
 
dirtyphil said:
The money I wasted on grinders that were not 2x72 I coulda bought some good steel. If your serious, buy the 2x72 grinder, then a good metal cutting bandsaw. I went the Milwaukee portable route with a Shwag table.
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I'll definitely go with a 2x72 grinder. Trying to determine if I want to fork out more money for a variable speed one, or the Grizzly.
 
Bow Commander said:
I'll definitely go with a 2x72 grinder. Trying to determine if I want to fork out more money for a variable speed one, or the Grizzly.
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That's an easy choice - go variable speed with a typical 2X72 with a 1.5" tool change arm (1-1/4" ok). Since you're looking at the Grizzly I suspect the almost $700 is sorta hoping to be the budget for a grinder? You can very easy make a NICE 2X72 VFD grinder for around that price. OR - order one of the bare 2X72 grinders less motor and VFD for around that. Add another $250 or so for a 2 hp motor and Chinese VFD drive and you're in business. All you'll need is to get a drill press to build the grinder. Not really sure how much you'll save over buying the basic frame.
 
Ken H> said:
That's an easy choice - go variable speed with a typical 2X72 with a 1.5" tool change arm (1-1/4" ok). Since you're looking at the Grizzly I suspect the almost $700 is sorta hoping to be the budget for a grinder? You can very easy make a NICE 2X72 VFD grinder for around that price. OR - order one of the bare 2X72 grinders less motor and VFD for around that. Add another $250 or so for a 2 hp motor and Chinese VFD drive and you're in business. All you'll need is to get a drill press to build the grinder. Not really sure how much you'll save over buying the basic frame.
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Ok, I believe I'm following you on the grinder assembly and cost. Please, pardon my ignorance, what do you mean by "all you'll need is to get a drill press to build the grinder"?
 
Bow Commander said:
Ok, I believe I'm following you on the grinder assembly and cost. Please, pardon my ignorance, what do you mean by "all you'll need is to get a drill press to build the grinder"?
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If one has a sense of minor ingenuity, A drillpress is about the only precision tool one will need to build a grinder frame. Everything else can be built by handtools.
 
Lieblad said:
If one has a sense of minor ingenuity, A drillpress is about the only precision tool one will need to build a grinder frame. Everything else can be built by handtools.
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I agree. I welded mine from tube but if I make another it'll be bolted plate for more precise fitting tooling arms. Check out diy knife maker central. I think Walter sorelles has a good video on tools as well.
 
Bow Commander Bow Commander you didn't specify what your budget is to get set up.

One suggestion I have is before going for the grinder, is to make a Gough Jig and bevel some with files/sandpaper. With a combination of coarse and fine files, you can remove some metal quickly. The jig enables you to create a flat grind.

This will get you on the way to making some knives and working your way through the step-by-step process. The Loveless Barney book shows how to do it by hand and there are several good you tube videos that show the same thing.
 
Don't forget you need some way to sharpen. Whetstones, tormek, lansky or wicked edge, paper wheels and grinder, lapping film and flat plate or on the belt grinder.

All will cost money at varying levels . If you want to sharpen on the grinder you'll have to be able to slow it down or burn up the edge.
 
I'm still new to knifemaking, and my tool setup is still definitely the bargain-bin variety, but I'll tell you what I do. This isn't what you should do, but an example of one way to make knives. Keep in mind that everyone here does things their own way, and no one way is right or wrong (not entirely, anyway). Many people may find a tool to be absolutely required, while others may see it as an unnecessary luxury. Don't be afraid to ease into this and learn what works for you as you go.

I have a cheap Dayton 2x42 belt grinder, which I bought after making my first few blades on a Gough jig with files. It isn't variable speed. I've never used a nice variable 2x72, and I'm sure they make life a lot easier, but right now I feel like I'm more limited by my freehand grinding skill than I am by my grinder. So the upgrade isn't a priority at the moment. I cut my blanks out with an angle grinder, then clean them up on the bench grinder to save belts, then bring them to size on the belt grinder. Mostly because I already had the angle grinder and bench grinder. This process honestly isn't that bad, a band saw isn't entirely necessary, but it still might take an hour to profile a blade as opposed to maybe 15 minutes. For that reason, a portaband is probably next up on my list of purchases. I probably won't buy the table at first and just see how it goes doing it manually. You can always add on later.

A drill press is pretty necessary, but you already have one so I'll leave it at that. I made a two-brick forge for heat treating and had to buy the bricks and the burner, but if you're outsourcing we won't dig into that either. I've used a friend's (non-metal) band saw for cutting out scales, and I've also used my coping saw, which isn't the end of the world. Though it's another reason I want a portaband soon. Other than that... hand files, teeny tiny files, G-flex epoxy, LOTS of sandpaper, and a Smith's sharpening kit is just about everything I use, and it's enough to turn out a functional blade even it isn't the most efficient. You don't need much, most of it just makes life easier.

Oh, also, safety glasses, leather gloves, a respirator, and a fire extinguisher are always worth the investment. Good luck!
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Ken H> said:
No waste in that panel of blades - you got them laid out nicely. I see it's AEB-L (my favorite steel), and it looks like you ground teh bevels in before HT'ing? Oh wait, is that .138" thick? If so, then I fully understand grinding in bevels before HT. Most of my stuff is kitchen stuff using <.100", with lots in the .040" and .060" range. I bevel those after HT to help prevent warp.

Ken H>
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On kitchen knives I'll use thinner stock and I grind them post ht too and for the same reasons. There's a santuko in that box if ya look close, .070 AEB-L. I was making it for stock to sell prior to Christmas but the wife stole it:

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Just last night she proclaimed it her favorite kitchen knife of all time. AEB-L @62 RC with ht by Peters.

Bow Commander said:
Thank you for the detail. I appreciate it. What brand of bits do you prefer? I was trying to research good bits for metal drilling.



Ahh love it! All those shapes and size blanks get me excited. I can't wait to make my wife a santoku or chef knife, and my son a hunting knife. The main plan for my hobby is get good enough to where I can sell my knives and support my newly planted church with the money from the sale. Kind of like my own ministry.

So you cut all those blanks out with the portaband, then use the belt grinder for detail shaping?
Click to expand...

Yes sir, cut out on the bandsaw and then profile on the grinder. I do about 90 percent of the bevel grinding prior to ht and then do the rest post ht. Except as stated already on the kitchen knives.
 
Lieblad said:
If one has a sense of minor ingenuity, A drillpress is about the only precision tool one will need to build a grinder frame. Everything else can be built by handtools.
Click to expand...

Ah ok. I see what you mean. Literally building the frame.

ashwinearl said:
Bow Commander Bow Commander you didn't specify what your budget is to get set up.

One suggestion I have is before going for the grinder, is to make a Gough Jig and bevel some with files/sandpaper. With a combination of coarse and fine files, you can remove some metal quickly. The jig enables you to create a flat grind.

This will get you on the way to making some knives and working your way through the step-by-step process. The Loveless Barney book shows how to do it by hand and there are several good you tube videos that show the same thing.
Click to expand...

Budget is a little flexible. As long as I am getting quality tools. I support the buy once cry once theory in all my hobbies. I've been looking at a few variable grinder set ups around 1k.

Thank you for the Gough jig suggestion, I will look more into it! I have some info pulled up about it right now.

Upended said:
I'm still new to knifemaking, and my tool setup is still definitely the bargain-bin variety, but I'll tell you what I do. This isn't what you should do, but an example of one way to make knives. Keep in mind that everyone here does things their own way, and no one way is right or wrong (not entirely, anyway). Many people may find a tool to be absolutely required, while others may see it as an unnecessary luxury. Don't be afraid to ease into this and learn what works for you as you go.

I have a cheap Dayton 2x42 belt grinder, which I bought after making my first few blades on a Gough jig with files. It isn't variable speed. I've never used a nice variable 2x72, and I'm sure they make life a lot easier, but right now I feel like I'm more limited by my freehand grinding skill than I am by my grinder. So the upgrade isn't a priority at the moment. I cut my blanks out with an angle grinder, then clean them up on the bench grinder to save belts, then bring them to size on the belt grinder. Mostly because I already had the angle grinder and bench grinder. This process honestly isn't that bad, a band saw isn't entirely necessary, but it still might take an hour to profile a blade as opposed to maybe 15 minutes. For that reason, a portaband is probably next up on my list of purchases. I probably won't buy the table at first and just see how it goes doing it manually. You can always add on later.

A drill press is pretty necessary, but you already have one so I'll leave it at that. I made a two-brick forge for heat treating and had to buy the bricks and the burner, but if you're outsourcing we won't dig into that either. I've used a friend's (non-metal) band saw for cutting out scales, and I've also used my coping saw, which isn't the end of the world. Though it's another reason I want a portaband soon. Other than that... hand files, teeny tiny files, G-flex epoxy, LOTS of sandpaper, and a Smith's sharpening kit is just about everything I use, and it's enough to turn out a functional blade even it isn't the most efficient. You don't need much, most of it just makes life easier.

Oh, also, safety glasses, leather gloves, a respirator, and a fire extinguisher are always worth the investment. Good luck!
6SGJpSl.jpg
Click to expand...
Oh my. First and foremost that is a BEAUTIFUL knife! Wow, the contrast of colors is stunning. It has a similar look of what I'd love to create eventually. What is the black material on the handle? Do I see a matching black pin inside it? Second, thank you for the detailed info on your process! Where do you typically buy your handle, spacer, pin material?

Horsewright said:
On kitchen knives I'll use thinner stock and I grind them post ht too and for the same reasons. There's a santuko in that box if ya look close, .070 AEB-L. I was making it for stock to sell prior to Christmas but the wife stole it:

aUbSpRS.jpg


tJ4dA9W.jpg


Just last night she proclaimed it her favorite kitchen knife of all time. AEB-L @62 RC with ht by Peters.



Yes sir, cut out on the bandsaw and then profile on the grinder. I do about 90 percent of the bevel grinding prior to ht and then do the rest post ht. Except as stated already on the kitchen knives.
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Oh wow, horsewright, that is a gorgeous knife. Looks like such a useful shape too. How do you store a kitchen knife like that? Do you make a leather sheath for it too?
 
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