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- Dec 11, 2000
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Will stabilizing work on spalted wood with soft spots? How good does the figure need to be, and how free from inclusions, before it is good enough to send for stabilizing? Do you burn/throw away the stuff that doesn't quite make the grade, even if it is still figured, or is it still good for other projects? If you can use wood for things other than knife handles, how to you choose what gets cut into little blocks for handles, and what is left large for bigger projects?
Back in the winter of 2019 a silver maple with a lot of small burls came down near my parents' place and I have spent a couple of years mining the trunk for figured wood. The stuff I got early on is pretty sound, but the last load, collected early March and which was most of the burl, has spalted quite a lot. Mostly not spalt with black lines though
. Anyway, I have been cutting some slabs into blocks with the intent of sending to K & G for stabilising and would like to get some extra opinions.
First thing, this picture shows a piece that I hand planed (good sharp A2 blade) and the fluffy white bits are where the wood has gone really soft and been pulled by the plane blade. Can such wood be stabilised and those soft areas filled, or are all such pieces good for nothing but stove wood?

Next, bark inclusions, is there ever an acceptable size, or number? I am not a maker of high end art, and most things are either kitchen of bushcraft tools. Quite a few pieces (often those that are the most solid) have small bark inclusions. This would be a high number, but the size is small.

When I first started cutting blocks I was tending to cut for yield, and it took a while to realise I needed to accept higher waste and to cut for quality. Between the better bits that I have since cut from the maple, and some bits of curly redwood, I have a 11"x8.75"x5.75" box full (about 35 blocks, varied from 1" square to 1.5x2, mostly 5" long but some smaller destined for stacked handles). I have quite a few pieces from the early cutting, and a lot of chunks and slabs of maple that I haven't cut, as well as some more redwood and some curly ash. I could put another such box together, I have some curly ash that might be good dyed and stabilized, but I don't want to send stuff that is too low a grade, and in my enthusiasm I don't want to cut up slabs that would be better saved for other projects.
I suspect that some of the larger slabs of maple do not have enough dense figure to make it good to cut them for knife handles. Maybe better to keep them large and cut them for bandsawn veneer to make keepsake boxes or some such other decorative wood project. Would quite like to hear thoughts on how folk choose what to cut for handles, and how much figure a block needs to be worth stabilising? Are you strong enough in resolve that you turn the 2nds into fire wood, or do you find another use for them?
These are the early cut blocks (call 'em 2nd quality) and some chunks that might yield a good block here and there, maybe...

Couple of the big bits that I think would be better kept for box making. Maybe bandsawn veneer. Not sure how to deal with the soft areas, as described earlier in the post. Tempting to hose the surface with cyanoacrylate, but maybe some super thin epoxy would be more economical and penetrate better? Anyone ever do wood work with spalted wood? Other than stabilizing, is there a way to finish it at home to toughen the surface...I know this isn't an ideal place to ask, but so many folk here have talents beyond knives I thought it worth a try!

Might as well show the stuff that I have already got ready to go.

And the remaining redwood, some of which will be held back for other decorative projects, but some could definitely go in a second box for stabilizing.

Thanks!
Chris
Back in the winter of 2019 a silver maple with a lot of small burls came down near my parents' place and I have spent a couple of years mining the trunk for figured wood. The stuff I got early on is pretty sound, but the last load, collected early March and which was most of the burl, has spalted quite a lot. Mostly not spalt with black lines though

First thing, this picture shows a piece that I hand planed (good sharp A2 blade) and the fluffy white bits are where the wood has gone really soft and been pulled by the plane blade. Can such wood be stabilised and those soft areas filled, or are all such pieces good for nothing but stove wood?

Next, bark inclusions, is there ever an acceptable size, or number? I am not a maker of high end art, and most things are either kitchen of bushcraft tools. Quite a few pieces (often those that are the most solid) have small bark inclusions. This would be a high number, but the size is small.

When I first started cutting blocks I was tending to cut for yield, and it took a while to realise I needed to accept higher waste and to cut for quality. Between the better bits that I have since cut from the maple, and some bits of curly redwood, I have a 11"x8.75"x5.75" box full (about 35 blocks, varied from 1" square to 1.5x2, mostly 5" long but some smaller destined for stacked handles). I have quite a few pieces from the early cutting, and a lot of chunks and slabs of maple that I haven't cut, as well as some more redwood and some curly ash. I could put another such box together, I have some curly ash that might be good dyed and stabilized, but I don't want to send stuff that is too low a grade, and in my enthusiasm I don't want to cut up slabs that would be better saved for other projects.
I suspect that some of the larger slabs of maple do not have enough dense figure to make it good to cut them for knife handles. Maybe better to keep them large and cut them for bandsawn veneer to make keepsake boxes or some such other decorative wood project. Would quite like to hear thoughts on how folk choose what to cut for handles, and how much figure a block needs to be worth stabilising? Are you strong enough in resolve that you turn the 2nds into fire wood, or do you find another use for them?
These are the early cut blocks (call 'em 2nd quality) and some chunks that might yield a good block here and there, maybe...

Couple of the big bits that I think would be better kept for box making. Maybe bandsawn veneer. Not sure how to deal with the soft areas, as described earlier in the post. Tempting to hose the surface with cyanoacrylate, but maybe some super thin epoxy would be more economical and penetrate better? Anyone ever do wood work with spalted wood? Other than stabilizing, is there a way to finish it at home to toughen the surface...I know this isn't an ideal place to ask, but so many folk here have talents beyond knives I thought it worth a try!

Might as well show the stuff that I have already got ready to go.

And the remaining redwood, some of which will be held back for other decorative projects, but some could definitely go in a second box for stabilizing.

Thanks!
Chris