HELP-green wood how to seal--urgent

Status
Not open for further replies.
marekz

marekz

Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Messages
1,699
all i have is acrylic latex paint and polyurethane. i have some green wood-- can i use any of these!!!!!!--thanks-marekz
 
In short.....No.
The wood needs to be properly dried (approx 6% moisture) before any
attempt to seal.
 
Russ-- i was told prior that when you get some green wood , i should apply anchor seal. then when i am ready to cut it down to more managelble sizes ( for it to dry more thourouhly) then i can re apply something like anchor seal. The problem now is it was cut 5 days ago. Normal black cherry tree. I have 6 2-3ft logs that already show splitting on the ends. if i dont do something those cracks are going to get bigger. I cant find anything but the latex acrylic ppaint and polyurethane. Are you sure i dont have to apply something??? i am going to slab the wood for small clock work.--thanks mark--as well as a couple knife handles
 
Marekz,

Parrifin wax will do the job you want. Most grocry stores will carry it in the canning section.
Melt it and apply to prevent cracking. leave the bark on and seal the ends.
Thanks,
Del
 
It will do you no good to seal log ends that are already checked as they will continue to check. You must cut the log ends back far enough to remove all the checks and then immediately seal with several coats of your latex paint...you'll be fine. Emulsified liquid wax is always preferred so good to keep some on hand.
 
Russ,
I think he wants to slow the drying by sealing the end grain....to prevent splitting.

Acrylic latex works fine.

Stacy
 
thanks -yes i want to slow the drying-- so i would think if i apllied the latex liberally on the sides--the crack should stop cracking. i plan on filling every and all cracks and all open surfaces. i feel i need to do it tonight before it gets any worse, now that its out of the woods. so unless someone strongly disagrees with latexing the cracks instead of cutting it back to a non crack surface-im gonna go ahead and use the latex. thank you so much--marekz
 
LARRY IS CORRECT
If you do not cut off the cracked areas they will continue to grow!
You want to cut the wood back past the cracks to solid/uncracked wood. Then seal with a liberal coat of the latex paint on the ends. This should be done immediately after you cut off the cracked stuff. If you don't cut off the cracked wood, might as well not seal the ends at all. Anchor seal is the best stuff to use but latex works ok.
 
well, i will have to cut back. Darn it -it will have to be tommorow. I dont think the cracks go to deep, so hopefully it will be a minimal loss on each end. Thanks Larry and Mark. I was knida thinking that Stacy was giving me the go ahead but i guess i read into it to fast-trying to take the easy way. appreciate yall---thanks again--marekz
 
I "assumed"(my goof) we were talking about cut green lumber or blocks.

Yes, wax is the appropriate mathod for slowing the end checking,

and since the checking has begun, cutting back to solid wood is

also appropriate.
 
I was assuming you would cut back the ends,too.

Cut off the ends to where no cracks show. Paint immediately with latex paint or a commercial sealant ,like Anchor Seal. Just paint the ends. The sides will allow slow drying. If you paint it all, it will never dry.
BTW, check the paint and re-coat it after a few months if needed.
Stacy

Stacy
 
Once you have done the cutbacks and sealed the ends, depending on diameter park the logs in your shop in a place where they will be at room temperature but not directly over a heater and leave them for 1-5 years to season

-Page
 
I will have to disagree with your advice. Latex paint will not work to seal the ends of a log. Wax will work, as will an oil based paint, varnish, or shellac. Latex paint is made to let moisture pass through it from the inside.

The reason that wood cracks as it dries is that it isn't drying (and shrinking) at the same rate throughout. It will naturally dry around 8 times faster through the end grain than through the side grain and thusly shrink & crack more because the remainder isn't shrinking at the same rate. That's the reason that you want to seal the end grain is to slow the drying rate there so hopefully it will have more consistant shrinkage.

You will find that it is nearly impossible to dry anything in the log. I would recommend that you have it sawed soon and then stack it (1" stickers) in an unheated dry area. Seal the end grain. Keep an eye on it for 60 days. If you start seeing cracks appear, partially cover it to slow the drying. If you start seeing any mold or mildew, get more air to it. After 60 days it will be ready to be put in a dry kiln of some type. Air drying (no matter how long)won't usually get the wood below 12-14% moisture (depending on where you live) which isn't really low enough and you must artificially dry it somehow.

If you want to learn more about how wood will act/react, I would recommend reading: "All About Wood" by Dr. R. Bruce Hoadley. He gets a little scientific at times but it is the most complete referance on all woods that I have run across.

Gary
 
"The Traditional Bowyer's Bible" is another good reference.
 
The advice given by Larry and myself comes from years of purchasing and processing green burl. We have both learned the hard way. I have ruined more good wood than most of the rest of the forum will ever see. It's up to you what advice to follow.
 
use Shellac or wood glue. I build a few wooden longbows and this is what I do for all my staves. Have good luck with this for the last 5 years.
 
Gary Mulkey said:
I will have to disagree with your advice. Latex paint will not work to seal the ends of a log.

Latex paint is made to let moisture pass through it from the inside.



If you want to learn more about how wood will act/react, I would recommend reading: "All About Wood" by Dr. R. Bruce Hoadley. He gets a little scientific at times but it is the most complete referance on all woods that I have run across.

Gary
Click to expand...

Hello Gary, latex paint was used before emulsified wax came to be. If you re-read the OPs request it's for advice on the two products he has available for immediate use..NOW..not later after a shopping trip to Woodcraft. Using the paint is appropriate. Latex paint is used in many regions of the world where wax is not available or to costly.

That's some pretty smart latex paint you mention that only lets moisture "out". What happens if you brush it on backwards does it let moisture in but not out?.. Latex paint breathes by design and is flexible to move with exterior woods like house siding, but one way moisture barrier..........????????

The book you reference, "All About Wood"? I don't think it exists..can you provide a Library of Congress catalog number? R. Bruce Hoadley does have, "Understanding Wood", a craftsman's guide to wood. Many serious wood guys have this in their library. It contains some of his work, but is mostly an invaluable collection of research by many others. US Forest Service, "Wood Handbook: Wood as an Engineering Material" is source for much of his book.

While we are entitled to our own opinions we are not entitled to our own facts.
 
To brush the latex on backwards, do you need to hold the brush behind your back? Or would using a left handed brush in your right hand work? Just curious.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top