Upon speaking further with my heat treater this is what he is seeing. Varied results with testing different places on the knives, or different blades from the same bar. Some are giving between 38 and 56 on the same knife. I did not buy straight from aldo but from a supplier who buys his steel from him. I am talking to the supplier who also does heat treating so I plan to send the blades that did not harden to him and see what he finds out. I'm a bit frustrated as I had a last minute show I was supposed to go to in two weeks, and now half of what I was working on is just scrap. I guess that's life though. I am now considering switching to a different steel that may be more consistent like CPM154 or the like.
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HELP! I can't get 1084 hard
- Thread starter Theiskell
- Start date
Upon speaking further with my heat treater this is what he is seeing. Varied results with testing different places on the knives, or different blades from the same bar. Some are giving between 38 and 56 on the same knife. I did not buy straight from aldo but from a supplier who buys his steel from him. I am talking to the supplier who also does heat treating so I plan to send the blades that did not harden to him and see what he finds out. I'm a bit frustrated as I had a last minute show I was supposed to go to in two weeks, and now half of what I was working on is just scrap. I guess that's life though. I am now considering switching to a different steel that may be more consistent like CPM154 or the like.
Hi,
i know this tread is old, but i see follow's up, so...
You got 64rc in one of your tests, did you try to harden again the same test piece, the second time using the target temperature and oil?
I mean, if the spheroidized structure form the mill is not ready to quench, the trip to 1600F with a bit of soak may have moved a little carbon around. 64rc made me guess now the carbon is in good place for quenching.
If it works, a proper normalization, followed by grain refining could be the way to go for the next trials.
cheers
S.
i know this tread is old, but i see follow's up, so...
You got 64rc in one of your tests, did you try to harden again the same test piece, the second time using the target temperature and oil?
I mean, if the spheroidized structure form the mill is not ready to quench, the trip to 1600F with a bit of soak may have moved a little carbon around. 64rc made me guess now the carbon is in good place for quenching.
If it works, a proper normalization, followed by grain refining could be the way to go for the next trials.
cheers
S.
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2012
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- 220
Yup, they are replacing the bad bar I got from them... just a matter of when they get the steel back in stock :/
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2010
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- 1,731
I have a large bar (4"X36"X.125) of 1080 I purchased on February 4th 2014. Would this piece be a problematic piece and should I be worried?
I have not used it yet as I'm finishing using the other pieces I have but I don't want to worry if the steel I have is bad.
Is the the only way to see if its bad is to HT it?
I have not used it yet as I'm finishing using the other pieces I have but I don't want to worry if the steel I have is bad.
Is the the only way to see if its bad is to HT it?
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 7,743
I'm also wondering if it's possible to nail down which bars are iffy, but I don't know if that's possible. I just don't have the time to make blades from steel that I'm not positive about. My bar is 1x5/32" if that helps. My first knife using the steel seems okay, but I can only do rudimentary tests to find out. :/
I will know by tonight which bar mine is from at least. I had 1.5 and 2x5/32 and 2x3/16. I will throw a mic on it and let you guys know. I am sending the blades to the supplier who will try a heat treat on them a if he finds similar issues he is replacing the steel for me.