Help! I can't get this knife sharp!

A

a Trexler Ranger

Joined
Nov 17, 2016
Messages
196
Hi guys

So lately I haven't been able to get my Gerber Strongarm sharp. I know its 420HC steel so it would dull fairly quickly, but I was able to sharpen my PM2 faster. Did I maybe get a bad heat treat or something? Should I contact Gerber about it?

Thanks
 
1. Have you run it through a full course to med/fine sharpening cycle?

2. Check for a wire edge? Try to put the edge maybe at 50 degrees and lightly draw on your sharpenining stone in case there's is a wire edge.

This thread probably belong I maintenance btw.
 
Are you fully apexing each side before moving to a higher grit?

If so, how do you know?
Sharpie, felt/seen burr?

What is left of the edge, is it a rough edge from a wire edge tearing off, or is it still rounded/blunted/rolled?

What are you using for sharpening?
 
OK. I have run it through the whole deal including a strop on my belt. And I just looked at the knife and I don't see a wire edge
 
All I have is one of those basic double grit whetstones which works for everything I've had until now. Once I'm done with that I use sand paper to hone it. And then I strop it. There is no burrs or anything. It looks like any other knife I have edge wise, and the way I like to test sharpness is it should easily make a feather stick
 
As a fixed blade it has a very thick edge so sharpness might be a relative thing as well. It could be the edges need to be thinned out if in case you need it to be shaving sharp.

I quite often put a back bevel on knives that don't cut well taking some material off the edge and it greatly helps.
 
I just use it to chop and baton so it doesn't need to be super sharp, just sharp enough so that I can chop. I can really baton with it no matter how dull it gets.
 
a Trexler Ranger said:
I just use it to chop and baton so it doesn't need to be super sharp, just sharp enough so that I can chop. I can really baton with it no matter how dull it gets.
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For your use , you don't want or need too thin . More ax than scalpel .
 
Are you using water or oil with the stone?

It may be glazed and not cutting well.
 
if you sharpen to an apex with your course stone then strop it. if its sharp, then go onto the next stone. if its not sharp, dont switch to the next stone.
 
Id get rid of your sandpaper step and just strop it after your stones. Get it sharp enough on the stones so it almost shaves.
 
a Trexler Ranger said:
All I have is one of those basic double grit whetstones which works for everything I've had until now. Once I'm done with that I use sand paper to hone it. And then I strop it. There is no burrs or anything. It looks like any other knife I have edge wise, and the way I like to test sharpness is it should easily make a feather stick
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did it feather stick before you sharpened it? could just be the blade profile, not all knives feather stick better than others.

 
Mo2 said:
did it feather stick before you sharpened it? could just be the blade profile, not all knives feather stick better than others.

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Simply riveting! :rolleyes:I kept watching for some sharpening tips . Is this just a knife comparison thing or?o_O
 
The cheapy way is putting 100 grit wet/dry silica carbide grit sandpaper on a plate of glass and rubbing. It will flatten your stone as well. Then apply it to some 400 or 600 grit to smooth it out
 
DocJD said:
Simply riveting! :rolleyes:I kept watching for some sharpening tips . Is this just a knife comparison thing or?o_O
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no its just showing 2 hours of feather sticks with different blade profiles. nothing more. he mentioned that's how he tests for sharpness.
 
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