Help Identifying WWII Japanese Sword

[Schmoopy]

Hello everyone. I too have a Japanese sword that was handed down to me. It was brought back from WW2, and was kept in my Grandfather's basement and not taken care of. The scabbard rotted away as well as the handle. My dad saved all the pieces and tried to clean up the blade some (we now know that was a mistake). He told me when he was a boy and the sword was in good shape that it also had a small knife w/scabbard attached to the sword scabbard. Over the years, the small knife was lost. The blade on the sword is still razor sharp and has never been sharpened. My dad put a piece of masking tape over the blade to protect it (and anyone handling it because it was so sharp).

I will attach some pictures. I am told the writing on the tang may tell who the maker of the sword is. We have no idea about the history and would like to know if anyone can help.

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Although I cannot say for certain without having sword in hand, I believe this is a wakizashi made by Kanenori from Echizen, during the Kanbun period (1670s).
However, there is a critical character on the sword that just happens to be rubbed off to an extent where you cannot tell for certain what it is, so there's also a possibility that is a wakizashi made by Masanori from Echizen, during the Keiko period (1600s).

It could also just be a fake mei. There are tons of those floating around.

My nihonto knowledge is pretty limited, so don't take anything I say as definitive fact.

 

[NihontoEd]

Here are a few tips or recommendations for posting photos of Japanese swords(or any swords) for identification. Following these tips prior to taking or posting your photos will greatly assist those attempting to help you. It will result in faster identification as you won't have to be asked to provide better photos.

Try shooting the photos against something other than a white background. The camera focuses on the bright white background and results in a dark subject.

Try photographing it in a brightly lit area like by a window, but not direct sunlight. Raise the blinds (no shadows) or go outside and place it in a brightly lit spot, again not direct sun light. Natural lighting works great. Artificial light works well, but avoid incandescent bulbs as they throw off yellow light.

Use a single colored background like a dark brown, green or even black towel, cloth, table, wall, etc..

Crop you photos ! This alone will allow for more sword in the photo and remove distracting and unnecessary background clutter.

Be sure your photos are in focus !!! It is a complete waste of time to add blurry, out of focus photos.

Provide full length shots of both sides of the entire blade, close ups of both sides of the the entire tang, close ups of both sides of the tip, more close up shots of any inscriptions which my be on either side of the tang. Do the same for fittings/koshirae/scabbard, if that is what your question is about.

If submitting a photo of the signature, date, etc., orient your photos correctly. They are read vertically holding the sword tip up, tang down.

The signature needs to be shot straight on and with no flash or reflecting light.

It is difficult to obtain good quality photos of Japanese swords, but with a little time, effort and patience you should be able to submit focused, legible photos with enough detail to receive some pertinent information.

Here is an example for reference:

 

[GREENJACKET]

Here is some more basics:
WWII Jap swords were produced in quantity for both Officers and NCO'S. There are a lot of them.
Some were from off the battle field, but just like Luger German pistols everyone wanted to "bring one home". Loads of fakes to quench the demand, even well after the war.
Old family swords were rarely taken on campaign and just left at home, better to take a good "modern" one for the jungle. The highest quality were and always will be very expensive, few could afford one.
The old designs were dated to the fashion of a "modern" Japanese Army, and there were enough politics that a lot of older ones had been destroyed yonks before. Many blades were shortened to be regulation length.
All sorts of stuff went on which makes these interesting to some.

Most are jolly nice still. The blade needs protecting from rust and damage. The tang should never be cleaned more than a light dusting, leave the rust as that has telling indicators of quality and age. Correct cleaning of a blade is specialised so better just oil and stop the rot rather than try it yourself as you might trash a rare one. Experts need to see the tang and piece to have any real chance to call on genuine or fake. Some are easy, others much more tricky. A lot of people think they are experts having seen just a few. Very very few have a high premium, most are just nice. Condition is everything, but original finish is better than over cleaned.

Don't give up your day job as most don't have that much value; but very occasionally one does, big time. Always fun finding out.

 

[Girthicus]

The picture isnt very good but I got down a few words:
大和大祈前(_山&#21063

I am not sure of the last 3 kanji because of the rust but (山&#21063 could be the last two.