Help Me Choose a Good Blackberry Machete

Sulaco

Sulaco

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Joined
Nov 15, 2003
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My wife likes to pick blackberries every year. They grow wild along the treeline and near some creeks all around our house. There are so many of them that a lot of times, we have to hack in to them to get to the good ones the wildlife haven't picked over. In the past I've used a long stick, hedge trimmers and my Junglas. But it seems to me like a good, long machete would work much better. I also have to cut through TONS of brambles, some of which are heavily intertwined with small scrub Oaks, pines and the like. We live in a very humid climate with plenty of ground water so stuff grows super fast.

I'd need something long with plenty of reach, and light because most of the swings would be very short. I am not sure what the best setup would be, though, something like a tip heavy golok or maybe a prang style? I dunno. Input is greatly appreciated!

Oh and the less I have to spend the better!
 
Easy. I speak from experience when I suggest the Condor Viking machete. 20 inch blade with all the weight up front, good slim stock, and the sharpened back edge makes for excellent back-snaps that absolutely murders brambles. Comes with a nice leather sheath, too.



Barring that I'd suggest an Imacasa guarizama or sable pattern. But the Viking is a fantastic tool for the job.
 
I'd recommend a Christmas Tree shearing knife.

They're light weight, razor sharp and allow for very easy 'flick' cutting - as well as full-length foliage "shearing". They're not heavy-duty chopping machete's; Rather, light-weight long knives that excel at slicing small limbs, vines, etc.

I believe Brushking is largest manufacturer these days.....
 
That Viking machete sure is nice, but for something I'd consider a yard tool, it's way too pricey for me! Wow! I am thinking that because my swings will be limited, it might be better to stay with something shorter. The Marbles 14" Bolo is looking pretty good. It's thick enough to have some heft to the swing and having the top false edge sharpened means I can slash pretty well back and forth. The price is right too! FortyTwoBlades, do you sell this one?
 
I don't presently carry the Marbles' machete line but plan to in future. If you wanted a sharpened back edge, however, I'd be happy to grind one on one of the 14" Tramontina bolos I carry. The Mora #333 might work well for you, too, if you're looking for something light and thin around the 14" mark, but the Tramontina is cheaper. :)
 
I don't know a whole lot about machetes, so i'm sorry if this doesn't apply lol, but i've heard good things about Tramontina, and I know those are cheap because i've been considering getting one for a while now :P also when I first read the post I thought it said "help me choose a good Blackberry"
 
It does say, "Help Me Choose a Good Blackberry...", it just also says, "Machete". ;)
 
Sulaco, I think you may be suprised at how light a thin 18" machete can be. Imacasa, Condor, ESEE, and Fiddleback all offer 18" light machetes. They are easy to swing, actually quite a pleasure. A very sharp edge on a thin machete just sails through berries and such, and makes that "TING" sound when you flick it with your fingernail.
Part of this equation is your hand size, ie. the ESEE light machete has a fully encompassed micarta handle, while the Fiddleback is much more slender, and contoured. I like the handles to be thinner for pinch grip type cutting. A fatter handle is okay for big hands or heavy duty swinging where you'll use all your fingers for strength.
Happy hunting!

P.S. condsider a sheath, an 18" long razor should be covered to protect your flesh and other gear. The Condor sheaths are great, they add cost, but fit better than a generic off the shelf canvas sheath. Of course you may be making your own, or just will store in in your pick-up bed, etc.
 
Thanks for the info. I plan to keep it in the shed along with my other yard tools. I don't really have a need to take it anywhere else because the only place I'd use it is around the house. I have large hands so the ESEE handles would fit me best. I just can't spend that kind of money on a machete is all. Maybe one day but I am Bussekin broke right now! ;)
 
Sulaco said:
Thanks for the info. I plan to keep it in the shed along with my other yard tools. I don't really have a need to take it anywhere else because the only place I'd use it is around the house. I have large hands so the ESEE handles would fit me best. I just can't spend that kind of money on a machete is all. Maybe one day but I am Bussekin broke right now! ;)
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14" or 18" Condor EcoSurvivor. Same blade as the ESEE but with a polypropylene handle. ESEE sources their Lite Machete blades from Imacasa, Condor's parent company, so there's a reason why their blades are identical in profile. The EcoSurvivors have extremely good ergos--I'm a big fan of that handle. :)
 
foxx said:
A very sharp edge on a thin machete just sails through berries and such, and makes that "TING" sound when you flick it with your fingernail.
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ditto on an 18" and the "ting" sound...if it doesn't make that sound then it's too thick and heavy for brush work. btw, i love hearing that sound every time i un-sheath my machete...i should make it a ring tone :p
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
I don't presently carry the Marbles' machete line but plan to in future. If you wanted a sharpened back edge, however, I'd be happy to grind one on one of the 14" Tramontina bolos I carry. The Mora #333 might work well for you, too, if you're looking for something light and thin around the 14" mark, but the Tramontina is cheaper. :)
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If it were me & I was looking for a "Cheap" machete for blackberries & other yard work then I would take 42blades up on this offer ! The Trams are nice for the money spent & I'm sure he would make the edge hair popping sharp + he's gonna grind the back down to a usable edge ! Just my .02;)
 
Hey what's with all the people on here from Eastern KY? My father in-law is from Maytown and I've traded with several people on the forum from Pikeville and Prestonburg and the surrounding areas. Small world I guess! :)
 
Sulaco said:
Hey what's with all the people on here from Eastern KY? My father in-law is from Maytown and I've traded with several people on the forum from Pikeville and Prestonburg and the surrounding areas. Small world I guess! :)
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I'm just outside of Pikeville in the Kimper area. I've got a really good friend who lives in MayTown(Melvin May) ! I shoot 3D archery At DeweyLake just outside of Prestonsburg:D Yep....Small World !
 
coaldigger said:
If it were me & I was looking for a "Cheap" machete for blackberries & other yard work then I would take 42blades up on this offer ! The Trams are nice for the money spent & I'm sure he would make the edge hair popping sharp + he's gonna grind the back down to a usable edge ! Just my .02;)
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Well, on all the Trams I carry I've already flushed the scales to the tang, squared the spine, and thinned/convexed the edges, so grinding an edge on the back of the swell at the point isn't too much extra work. :D
 
i know you are looking for a machete but for what you are doing nothing beats a bush axe. I use a bush axe a lot and it is a lot better than any machete. Plus with a bush axe you have plenty of handel to keep your arm from coming it contact with brambles. you can use the hook end for small stuff and the other edge for chopping larger trees like you would with a regular axe. I think a bush axe cost about 20 or 30 dollars from the hardware store. that would be my choice anyway
 
I would go with a Martindale from loink.com (no affiliation). I got the longest one and it works very well at keeping my hands away from the briars. :) The edge and handle will need a bit of work when you get it (in my opinion), but it works great.
 
Nathan L said:
i know you are looking for a machete but for what you are doing nothing beats a bush axe. I use a bush axe a lot and it is a lot better than any machete. Plus with a bush axe you have plenty of handel to keep your arm from coming it contact with brambles. you can use the hook end for small stuff and the other edge for chopping larger trees like you would with a regular axe. I think a bush axe cost about 20 or 30 dollars from the hardware store. that would be my choice anyway
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I would use a brush axe only if I intended on actually cutting down the entire patch. They're too heavy and wide-swinging to be good for the sort of work the OP describes--cutting a path through brambles to get to choice picking areas. A machete is much better suited to that sort of task, while a brush axe would be the tool of choice for completely razing an area. :)
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Well, on all the Trams I carry I've already flushed the scales to the tang, squared the spine, and thinned/convexed the edges, so grinding an edge on the back of the swell at the point isn't too much extra work. :D
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Now thats what I call service ! :thumbup:
 
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