Help me decide... BK9 or F1?

Thanks all for the advice! I actually hadn't considered the BK16 yet and it intrigued me, so I ended up ordering that and an F1 from Amazon to see which fits best.
 
Well this is going to be harder than I thought! I love both knives, and both definitely are more comfortable and secure in hand than the ESEE. The F1 is just awesome and I love the convex grind, but at the same time the BK16 just locks into my hand. The F1 being almost double the cost has to be factored in too.

I like and dislike both sheaths for different reasons. The F1 sheath is easy to use and way more compact, but it does have that rattle I keep reading about. The BK16 sheath is bulkier and the 2 straps are a pain, but it does have the extra pocket and doesn't rattle.

I did put on a pair of gloves, at which time the F1 locked in better than the BK16. So right now the edge is going to the F1, at least until I pick up the BK again :)

Thanks again for the help, looks like I'll be happy either way. May even try selling something else to justify keeping both.

IMG_4386%20copy%202_zpsouxfo57w.jpg


IMG_4380%20copy_zpstybbv5rt.jpg
 
benhar said:
Well this is going to be harder than I thought! I love both knives, and both definitely are more comfortable and secure in hand than the ESEE. The F1 is just awesome and I love the convex grind, but at the same time the BK16 just locks into my hand. The F1 being almost double the cost has to be factored in too.

I like and dislike both sheaths for different reasons. The F1 sheath is easy to use and way more compact, but it does have that rattle I keep reading about. The BK16 sheath is bulkier and the 2 straps are a pain, but it does have the extra pocket and doesn't rattle.

I did put on a pair of gloves, at which time the F1 locked in better than the BK16. So right now the edge is going to the F1, at least until I pick up the BK again :)

Thanks again for the help, looks like I'll be happy either way. May even try selling something else to justify keeping both.

IMG_4386%20copy%202_zpsouxfo57w.jpg


IMG_4380%20copy_zpstybbv5rt.jpg
Click to expand...

Good to see the comparison photos :). I've never actually handled/seen an F1 in person, but now that I have a BK16 and these photos, I can get a basic idea. Thanks :).

A few things.

One option for the BK16, is to spend a bit of the price difference between them on customizing it to exactly how you like it.

The BK16s sheath was shared with the BK15, and BK17. The BK15 is a little over an inch longer (has a choil, and a longer blade), which is why the sheath is larger. If it bothers you do have both straps, you can cut one off (most people remove the top one) and the retention is just fine. Alternatively, you can grab an aftermarket kydex (or leather) sheath that is "just" how you like it. Kydex sheaths tend to run ~$30-40 from the makers I've seen.

I've said before that the Becker handle ergonomics are one of the things I like best about the brand. Handle scales are easy to change (which means different textures/materials) on knives like this, but the overall shape of the tang is harder for most people to change, so the ergos are important to me out of the box. I think you've discovered why I like them. They just fit my hand well (and sounds like it fits yours well also). The texture of the scales is subjective. Some people say that the stock Becker handles are too slippery and do things to add texture (either modifying them, or buying the ~$30 aftermarket micarta). Other people like the scales as they are, because they don't cause any hotspots/blisters (which is more how I lean in my opinion).

Good luck deciding sir :thumbup:.
 
benhar said:
The F1 sheath is easy to use and way more compact, but it does have that rattle I keep reading about.
Click to expand...

Helpful hint....place a small ranger band (made from cutting a piece of bicycle inner tube) around the side tab area of the F1's sheath. Not only will this improve the sheath retention a bit but also eliminate the rattle that you're hearing.

Congrats on your choice...now put her to good use!
 
Damn this thread! Now I have to contantly remind myself that I can't afford an f1 right now. Good thing I already own a 16.
 
Haha, sorry. It's even worse when you have both in hand and trying to remind yourself you only need 1 and the other should go back.

Something I didn't think about was sharpening... I have a DMT kit, but haven't gotten good enough to consistently get good result. What I've read about sharpening an F1 seems to get mixed reviews... some seem to get frustrated and give up, while others make it ("it" being sandpaper/mousepad method) sound easier than traditional sharpening.

So for a less than great sharpener like myself, would maintaining the convex be a bit much?
 
My F1 is one of the Falkniven micrata handled ones and as a result "expensive" with leather sheath. It is so pretty sometimes I hate to use it. I have absolutely no hesitation using the the BK-16 although I prefer the BK-15 as a general purpose woods knife as I am not afraid to hurt it where as I am much more careful with the F1. I do like the Becker handle ergo's and the fact that a total novice can change out the handles makes them better.
 
Sorry to bring this back up, just thought I'd post what I'm doing to bring the thread full circle. I'm gonna keep the BK16 for now, box the F1 back up, and tell my wife her Christmas shopping is done! As much as I like the F1, the BK16 is just comfortable and feels ready to get to work. I think the deciding factor was where my thumb rests. I could see the lip from the handle to blade getting uncomfortable after a while, vs the straight run on the BK16. After I get a better sheath (leaning Azwelke), the price point will match the F1, but the way I see it if I manage to break the knife, the replacement cost will be lower.

At the same time, I can't let go of that F1, so it sounds like a perfect Christmas present.

So, before I get outside my return period, can anyone comment on if an unskilled sharpener like myself will be able to maintain the F1 convex edge?

Also, wasn't this thread supposed to be about a BK9? Oh well.
 
Something to consider in terms of a sheath, a simple one is buying one of the Condors like the Bushlore or Kephart and using the nice leather sheath on the BK-16. Just a thought....

Stropping is a good way to maintain a convex edge and probably the least expensive route to get started. I tend to use bench stones. Take a look at the DMT Duosharp (8") in fine and very fine sides. Expensive. Another option is he Worksharp (ken Onion verison). Yes, I know more money. You can practice on the BK-16, or the Condor you might buy. ;)
 
I actually had considered the Worksharp (the cheaper one not the Ken Onion) and threw it on my Amazon wish list since I could theoretically use it to put a convex on the BK16 and better sharpen my kitchen knives, but chickened out when I read it's easy to mess up the knife. May reconsider it. I have some old knives I could sacrifice to newbie mistakes.
 
For the BK-16 (1095), you really don't need anything more expensive than the 8" Norton Combination Bench Stone (<$20) and a can of WD-40. It gives a serviceable edge. I sharpen my SAKs on the Norton most often as the steel is fairly soft. With the F1, I lean toward diamonds. I use both actually. If I am having trouble getting an edge with the Norton, I'll switch over to the DMT. The Worksharp is on my buy list. The flexibility of the belt almost naturally makes a convex edge. With any of the powered sharpeners, you want to pay attention and move your knife along at a regular rate and not let the knife sit in one spot on the belt.
 
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