Help me decide on a steel. Please.

stingray4540

stingray4540

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Mar 26, 2007
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If you don't mind that is...

So after doing as much research as I could on my own I think I've narrowed it down to 1084, O-1, and possibly 5160. From what I can tell the 5160 would be my best bet, but I can't find it any thinner than 1/4 in.

Planned specs will be:
3 3/4" long
1" wide
1/8" thick
Hunter/utility
stock removal
HT'ing myself
Single bevel


So, according to my specifications what type of steel would you suggest and why? Why would you choose O-1 over 1084 or 1084 over O-1 or do you have another steel suggestion?

I think I will also edge quench? I want my blade to be flexible enough to handle some abuse, but I want the spine to be hard enough to withstand being batoned(sp?). So I'm still up in the air about that one, just not sure if the spine would get hard enough. I guess it probably would be, even annealed steel is pretty tough is it not?
 
I'd go with 1084. The heat treat is as simple as it gets. O-1 has a more complicated heat treat if you want to do it properly to get the most out of ite and soak it at temp for the required amount of time. That takes a heat treat oven. They are both great steels, but O-1 isn't exactly a beginner's steel. (ask me how I know that ;) ) As soon as I use up my O-1 stock, I'm going back to simpler carbon steels for a while. Best of luck to you! -Matt-
 
Buy some O1/L6 mix from Mr Ealy in his Thunderstorm #2 Damascus pattern and make the most gorgeous hunter you've ever seen!
Ok maybe not for a first knife but eventually. I know I want some. :D
 
O-1 is not a beginner steel. i use 1080 which is almost the same as 1084 but its close enough. admiral steel sells 1080 but stopped carrying 1084. if you want a piece of 1080 in 1/8" i have 1/8"x1.5". ill cut you a couple of pieces and send it to you to try out. just email me with your address and ill send you a couple of pieces about 6" long. for the HT i just get it just past non magnetic (dull orange color) and then quench it. ive been getting good results with tempering at 375 but im still new. one thing is not to leave it in the forge for too long. make sure your atmosphere is just right (neutral) and once it gets up to temp and the blade is just past non magnetic pull it out and quench. im using regular veggie oil for the quench. heat oil to about 140. hope that helps.
 
Jacob,
When you were forging out of O-1, what problems were you having? Why was it not a beginner steel? Which of your two knives was it?

Just razzing you, but you really shouldn't be giving sage advise when you are only working on your third knife, and you have been a maker for about one month.

STINGRAY -For such a small blade I would go with the 1084 since you are new and have simple equipment. The O-1 would be OK, too. 5160 would work, but is more advantageous for larger blades.
BTW - A lot of makers got their start with O-1.
Stacy
 
Thanks everyone. Well i was kinda already leaning towards 1084, I was just wondering if anyone could convince me to go with O-1 or something else. So, unless someone can point out a huge advantage O-1 has over 1084 in small knives than I'll probably go with 1084. Thanks again everyone.

P.S. Is heat treatment the same/similar between 1080 and 1084? Does anyone have a link to a heat treat tutorial especially for 1084??
 
1084 is easier to HT properly than O1 if you don't have an electric furnace and plan on edge quenching. (O1 needs a soak at temp for 15 to 20 mins for optimum performance, kinda hard to do this when edge quenching).
 
STINGRAY4540, I must apologize for misreading your initial post. After reading Stacy's post to Pimpinsquee, I realized that I assumed you were going to forge the knife, even though it was clearly written that you were going to use stock removal. I do use O-1 for stock removal, and am set up to HT it properly. I'm moving away from forging it until my skills improve a bit. I need to take a step back and work with something a bit more forgiving. They both make a fine knife though! -Matt-
 
I'll add my opinion as a stock removal guy. I have never forged and I have only played with 1050 as a simple steel...never tried 1084 so I can't compare. I started as a rank beginner with O-1 and 5160 and have stayed with both of these steels. I find both to make a darn good blade very easily and they are virtually stupid proof for making them hard without cracking.

Both 5160 and O-1 can be as good as the maker wants. As beginner steel O-1 is a bit pricey but is available in just about any length, width, and thickness you might want from a lot of places. 5160 is cheap but hard to find in various sizes for stock removal guys. I make most of my knife blades out of 1/4" stock (sword blades too) and love 5160.

Some have stated that you must have a furnace to get optimal performance...this is true. Most of us could make better knives with more sophisticated stuff. But O-1 and 5160 will make a very good knife in the hands of a beginner with only a propane torch, a firebrick, and a pan of warm oil using a file and sandpaper to shape the blade. A couple clamps and a good vice and you are good to go.

More sophisticated temperature control will make O-1 or 5160 do some high tech/hi performance things but they both work fine with a minimum of tools and goodies in my experience.

Brian
 
I forge blades from all three plus several other steels. Biggest deciding factor for me would be which is closest at hand when the dragon breaths. I do seem to gravitate to O-1 as my allround favorite. Down to the "one steel" scenario, I could live out my remaining life with O-1, and be quite happy.
I tend to agree with Brian about all three being fairly easy on the beginner to learn. "Stupid proof".....well.... I've had a few students that defy that statement, but they were special.
 
Thanks again everyone. PimpinSquee has been kind enough to offer to send me a piece of 1080 to use on my first couple of knives. After that is used up and I need to order some, I'll probably make a small order of both 1084 and O-1 and just see for myself how I like working with either one and what I'm able to produce with them.

Thanks again Pimpin Squee.
 
steel is shipped out. just got back from the post office. you should have it by saturday. check your email also.
 
crex said:
I tend to agree with Brian about all three being fairly easy on the beginner to learn. "Stupid proof".....well.... I've had a few students that defy that statement, but they were special.
Click to expand...

Momma says "Stupid is as stupid does"! :foot: Yeah, stupid proof is definately too far. My experience is that *NoThInG* is truely stupid proof.:cool:

In my defense I did say *virtually* stupid proof.... :D

Brian
 
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