Help me decide on sharpening equipment.

H

Hjalmar69

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Aug 3, 2019
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Currently I use a Fallkniven Dc4, which is getting a bit worn on the diamond side, for my pocket and belt knives. In the Kitchen I mainly use a ceramic stick. So I would like to get more serious. I'm thinking a coarse diamond bench stone, a medium ceramic Spyderco and a strop. Or, a guided angle Lansky, 5 stone aluminum oxide. The latter seems easy although a bit cumbersome to use and the first combo seems quicker, more fun, but needs more focus.

What do you think? The Spyderco stone and a DMT diamond coarse bench hone are quite expensive.
 
The stock answer is Sharpmaker then any top guided system. Wicked Edge, KME, EdgePro ...
 
That's kind of funny but I went through a similar progression. Now I mainly sharpen with sandpaper glued to a stick :eek:
 
Hjalmar69 said:
Basically old school slip joints, Buck 105 pathfinder, SRK, Opinel and old Sabatier
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For those kinds of steels, I always recommend Norton oil stones to start. The Baryonyx Manticore is an awesome low grit stone for fixing and establishing edges but it can remove a lot metal very quickly. So, when starting out, I typically recommend a Norton JB8. That will cover your course needs. Pair that with an India fine and you'll be in a pretty good place.

Those steels can be stropped on denim, cardboard, newspaper, old belt, etc.

Get a Sharpie to mark the bevel and research sharpening fundamentals, to include the stickies on this page.
 
Just go freehand, get a decent coarse diamond stone (I use a Sharpal coarse/extra fine combo stone) and if you want finer than that get a Spyderco Medium, and if you want more than that a Spyderco Fine. The diamond stone will get a blade refined but still toothy, and I'm usually happy with that, but I do like how my edges just pop hair off my arm effortlessly after the Spyderco stones.

The system works for me because I don't have to worry about setting any equipment up, just grab a stone and get to work. I carry them in my lunch box so I can sharpen or touch up knives at work if I want. Simple and effective. I still have my Lansky and Sharpmaker, and reprofiled and sharpened many knives on both. I'm happy I transitioned though. Just had to find a technique that worked for me and now reprofiling takes very little time and touch ups are quick.
 
Hjalmar69 said:
Basically old school slip joints, Buck 105 pathfinder, SRK, Opinel and old Sabatier
Click to expand...

As with Eli's comment earlier, those steels will respond very nicely to Norton oil stones. In particular, I really like the Fine India for these. Something like the IB8 Coarse/Fine India bench stone in 2" x 8" size is a great jumping-off point for these steels. I came around to that conclusion, AFTER trying many other things like DMT & Lansky systems. I still have use for DMT hones for more wear-resistant steels, and I learned an awful lot in using a Lansky system. But after all that, I've settled very comfortably into the Fine India for most of my EDC knives in simpler mainstream cutlery steels.

Another very good supplementary option for quick touching up, after finishing on the Fine India, is a medium Spyderco ceramic. I often do quick touch-ups for my India-sharpened blades using the medium (brown) rods of the Spyderco Sharpmaker. It can add another notch of refinement after the Fine India.
 
marchone said:
No. It’s clamp won’t allow for distally tapered blades.
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Do not understand what you mean. But if you move away far from the middle with the stone, the angle will change. I have to increase the angle on my belt knives when nearing the tip on free hand
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
As with Eli's comment earlier, those steels will respond very nicely to Norton oil stones. In particular, I really like the Fine India for these. Something like the IB8 Coarse/Fine India bench stone in 2" x 8" size is a great jumping-off point for these steels. I came around to that conclusion, AFTER trying many other things like DMT & Lansky systems. I still have use for DMT hones for more wear-resistant steels, and I learned an awful lot in using a Lansky system. But after all that, I've settled very comfortably into the Fine India for most of my EDC knives in simpler mainstream cutlery steels.

Another very good supplementary option for quick touching up, after finishing on the Fine India, is a medium Spyderco ceramic. I often do quick touch-ups for my India-sharpened blades using the medium (brown) rods of the Spyderco Sharpmaker. It can add another notch of refinement after the Fine India.
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I'm sending you a link I found in a store where I buy knives. Is it something like that you mean? They have several Norton stones but it is hard to know which to choose.
Regards Erik

https://www.lamnia.com/sv/p/28624/verktyg/norton-combination-india-stone
 
Looks like any of the three you linked are valid options and all good stones.

The first looks like a 5" x 2" x 3/4" combination India stone (Norton model IB45 - the vendor picture shown in your link is a different, larger stone).

The 2nd one is a 2" x 8" JB8 crystolon (SiC, i.e., silicon carbide) Coarse/Fine stone.

And the last one looks like a 4" x 1" x 1/4" Fine India pocket stone (model FB14) - I have one of those too.

The Crystolon stone is very good for heavier work, especially on the coarse side of that stone.

The IB8 stone I have is in the same Coarse/Fine configuration as the IB45 referenced above, but in the 2" x 8" x 1" size. On the store site you referenced, it can be found here:

https://www.lamnia.com/sv/p/28626/verktyg/norton-india-alundum-8-inch
 
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Obsessed with Edges said:
Looks like any of the three you linked are valid options and all good stones.

The first looks like a 5" x 2" x 3/4" combination India stone (Norton model IB45 - the vendor picture shown in your link is a different, larger stone).

The 2nd one is a 2" x 8" JB8 crystolon (SiC, i.e., silicon carbide) Coarse/Fine stone.

And the last one looks like a 4" x 1" x 1/4" Fine India pocket stone (model FB14) - I have one of those too.

The Crystolon stone is very good for heavier work, especially on the coarse side of that stone.

The IB8 stone I have is in the same Coarse/Fine configuration as the IB45 referenced above, but in the 2" x 8" x 1" size. On the store site you referenced, it can be found here:

https://www.lamnia.com/sv/p/28626/verktyg/norton-india-alundum-8-inch
Click to expand...
I was confused by the word "alundun" So after that you finish with Spyderco medium ceramic?
I was thinking of getting a strop as well.
 
Alundun is more or less another way of saying aluminum oxide. India stones are aluminum oxide and Crystolons are silicon oxide.

I would recommend staying with at least 6" long stones but I prefer 8".
 
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