Help me decide on sharpening equipment.

I was confused by the word "alundun" So after that you finish with Spyderco medium ceramic?
I was thinking of getting a strop as well.

'Alundum' is a term I'd never seen before. But I have assumed it's a reference to aluminum oxide, which is the abrasive in the India stones from Norton. The word looks like a combination of 'alumina' (or 'aluminum oxide') and 'corundum', which is often the term used to describe naturally-occuring mineral forms of aluminum oxide. They all refer to the same thing, i.e., aluminum oxide or Al2O3.

I often touch up afterwards on the medium Spyderco, as a matter of convenience. Not always - but when I do, it always follows the India nicely. Some sharpening combinations play well together, and this is a combination I've liked every time I've tried it.

Most any stropping I've done, after the India and medium ceramic, is usually on just a bare leather strop. Haven't felt the need for anything more, with the steels you've referenced earlier.
 
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Hjalmar69,

As long the edge are straight, the angle will not change. But - when you come to the belly curve, the angle will change.

So, you can sharpen a machetes long straight edge - and the angle will NOT change on the straight part.

Thomas
 
Yeah the belly on my knives have a bigger angle than closer to the handle. What I meant is that the angle of the stone will change the further away you get from the angle guide... or maybe it doesn't? When I say belly I mean the curve near the tip, I don't know if that is correct term.
Regards Erik
 
Do not understand what you mean. But if you move away far from the middle with the stone, the angle will change. I have to increase the angle on my belt knives when nearing the tip on free hand

I think he is referring to the blade clamp having issues with clamping blades without a flat section. Something with a full flat grind like most spyderco models are difficult to clamp into the jaws because the jaws do not move independently of one another. So if the "triangle" created by the blades primary grind is different than the one between the jaws it is not going to be even in the clamp. As such you will be grinding at a different angle on one side of the blade as opposed to the other. Hopefully all of that made sense.

The KME system (which I upgraded to from the Lansky) compensates for this by having the jaws move independently with a hinge in the back of them. Maybe take a look at some of the videos of the KME clamps in action on a Full flat ground blade and that will help explain things a bit better in a visual format.
 
I think he is referring to the blade clamp having issues with clamping blades without a flat section. Something with a full flat grind like most spyderco models are difficult to clamp into the jaws because the jaws do not move independently of one another. So if the "triangle" created by the blades primary grind is different than the one between the jaws it is not going to be even in the clamp. As such you will be grinding at a different angle on one side of the blade as opposed to the other. Hopefully all of that made sense.

The KME system (which I upgraded to from the Lansky) compensates for this by having the jaws move independently with a hinge in the back of them. Maybe take a look at some of the videos of the KME clamps in action on a Full flat ground blade and that will help explain things a bit better in a visual format.
AhA, I see.. I've decided to go with a fine/coarse India stone from Norton to begin with. And a diy strop. Really appreciate the answer though if I buy a system later.
Regards Erik
 
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