Try on one knife to use jig .With jig you can really apply more pressure .Maybe you will learn something?
Belt speed ? If you don t know tell us RPM of motor and Dia. of drive wheel and I will calculate speed of belt ?
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Help me liven up my ceramic belts - or declare them dead
- Thread starter matto6
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Belt speed ? If you don t know tell us RPM of motor and Dia. of drive wheel and I will calculate speed of belt ?
use this ..................... https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-beltI'll do the RPM math and get back to you
With ceramic belts it's hard to use too much pressure and too much speed. 4,000 SFPM is the min, with 5,000 to 6,000 SFPM being better for ceramic. OR, as Natlek does use 7,000 SFPM (Did I get that right Natlek?).
I personally get better results from Zirconia belts since I can't use 5,000 for bevels, except at very beginning. I use more belts, but less cost per belt and it seems to equal out. I'm usually working with 60 to 62 Rc blades.
I personally get better results from Zirconia belts since I can't use 5,000 for bevels, except at very beginning. I use more belts, but less cost per belt and it seems to equal out. I'm usually working with 60 to 62 Rc blades.
Hmmmmm, I have a Baldor motor that says 1735 RPM, and a 5" drive wheel.
Does that mean I'm at 2271 SFPM max? Yikes.
Ahhhhhhh VFD's double the RPM and mine is already doubled so I'm at 4452 at 100%.
Red Label abrasives agrees on 3540-5880 SFPM for stainless steel. Maybe I'll try a 7" drive wheel to get closer to 6K and see how it works out.
Does that mean I'm at 2271 SFPM max? Yikes.
Ahhhhhhh VFD's double the RPM and mine is already doubled so I'm at 4452 at 100%.
Red Label abrasives agrees on 3540-5880 SFPM for stainless steel. Maybe I'll try a 7" drive wheel to get closer to 6K and see how it works out.
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Ohhh, I found this 3M article on belt pressure. My belts look almost identical to their Figure 4, "An example of glazing which can result from not applying enough pressure"
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A single point diamond dresser help me get a little bit more life out of a blue destroyer belt. It help expose a more grains that were getting glazed over.
weo
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Thanks for sharing the link.
The VSM 885 are medium to high pressure applications, the 880 are medium pressure.
I have tried multiple versions of VSM ceramic belts and I have never been very impressed but on Joshua's suggestion I tried the 880s and so far I like them.
The other ceramic belts I like are the 3m Cubitrons 947A which are also designed for lower pressure.
I have tried multiple versions of VSM ceramic belts and I have never been very impressed but on Joshua's suggestion I tried the 880s and so far I like them.
The other ceramic belts I like are the 3m Cubitrons 947A which are also designed for lower pressure.
Thanks. Sounds promising.
Do you know if they work well for hard, wear-resistant stainless steels? Like Magnacut, 10V, etc?
Thanks.
As an experiment, I attempted to de-glaze my 60 Grit VSM 880 by pressing a piece of scrap magnacut (hardened) into hard while running on high. I did only half the belt to compare before and after.
It only made it worse. The side I stabbed is now significantly less grippy then the original side. I guess I ripped off whatever little abrasive was remaining :-/ This is why I was wondering if I'm pressing too hard to too light, because dressing it doesn't seem to help.
But I'll try again on the next blade pressing harder from the start, and using a real dresser.
Yes they work on the high alloy vanadium steels. 10v is the highest vanadium content steel I have used and it does take more effort to grind compared to Magnacut.
The Cubitrons don't cut as fast as Blaze belts but I feel for me they have a more refined scratch pattern and always track smoothly.
I mostly use the 40+ grit belt.
I have never had much luck trying to refresh a belt. What I have done is when a belt is getting glazed is to turn up the speed and add a little more pressure or just set the belt aside for profiling and surface grinder work.
Britt_Askew
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Not accurate. Paid members can post pictures straight from their computer or phone , people that are not paid members can still post pictures they just have to use an image hosting site. I'm sure a quick search will help you with directions.
Sorry... let me correct my statement.
"This place won't let you post picture any more without paying"
Hosting pictures elsewhere and posting links is insanely annoying and unnecessarily difficult compared to just about any other forum or social media platform, which make it seamless and free. Is BladeForums owners' goal to slowly drive people to other platforms? And to accelerate the shift from traditional web forums to social media groups, which is already happening? If so, then they are making great decisions.
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Things you can try
Use a Desmond bca-2 type dresser that “cleans” the belt, it is a belt dresser
Use a diamond dresser, this gives you “fresh” grit
Split the belts in half and grind with the 1” wide belt. Try it, you might be surprised
Grind significantly slower belt speed than everyone here is suggesting. I’m talking like at 10-20% on your vfd dial. You have to find what works for Your style. Grinding high speed never worked well for me
I always switch to using a new fresh belt when the edge is getting thin and I’m almost done with the bevels.
Lastly, What are your expectations on belt life with these wear resistant steels? When I’m grinding a 240 mm zwear kitchen knife I’m going to use a couple 36/40/60 grit belts and it is what it is.
You said “used to profile”. Does that mean the edge shape profile or did you mean grinding in the bevels?
Edit - i see you said - “I started the bevels brand new belts.”
Use a Desmond bca-2 type dresser that “cleans” the belt, it is a belt dresser
Use a diamond dresser, this gives you “fresh” grit
Split the belts in half and grind with the 1” wide belt. Try it, you might be surprised
Grind significantly slower belt speed than everyone here is suggesting. I’m talking like at 10-20% on your vfd dial. You have to find what works for Your style. Grinding high speed never worked well for me
I always switch to using a new fresh belt when the edge is getting thin and I’m almost done with the bevels.
Lastly, What are your expectations on belt life with these wear resistant steels? When I’m grinding a 240 mm zwear kitchen knife I’m going to use a couple 36/40/60 grit belts and it is what it is.
You said “used to profile”. Does that mean the edge shape profile or did you mean grinding in the bevels?
Edit - i see you said - “I started the bevels brand new belts.”
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OMG great ideas!
I mean that I do the edge shaping pre-heat treat with an old belt, and also break the 90 degree edges with an old belt, then switch to a new one for the bevels. And yes I've discovered that switching to a new belt when the edge is getting this is amazing and helps a lot for the final touches.
I'm not sure what I expect on the life of the belt with wear-resistant steels.. but I got the impression by looking at the belts that there was life left. If I know I'm using up the belt, I can life with the cost. I just don't want to throw out belts that have 80% life left because I didn't know better.
Do you have a favorite technique for splitting the belt into 1" strips?
Also I have found a surface grinder or attachment more efficient and faster at grinding. So I can surface grind in the distal taper and start off the bevels with the surface grinder attachment. You can get more grinding out of the belts this way in my experience.
This generates a lot more heat so it has to be water cooled.
This generates a lot more heat so it has to be water cooled.
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A dedicated belt splitter tool would be best. I just cut it with a razor or knife and tear the belt By hand. It doesn’t need to be a precision split.
There is life left, and I feel you, but that is the way it is with wear resistant steels.
We use those belts for profiling or other less wear resistant steels.
I probably have 30 used belts hanging that are 36/40 grit Vsm ceramic that won’t cut z wear anymore waiting to be used on other steels.