While there are a lot of other inaccuracies in your post I want to address this one. If you can touch your toes to the ground while on the saddle then it's likely too low. You need to determine your
pubic bone height first and then you can use one of a couple of
different formulas to get close. You may need to tweak it from there but at least you'll have a good starting point. The best way is to get a proper fitting from a good cycling shop.
Hmm...sorry I'm so stupid, but wait, you don't know what you're talking about!
Your leg is NOT supposed to be fully extended at the bottom stroke, which it will be if you can't even touch your feet to the ground when straddling your saddle! You are not supposed to be reaching for the peddles or having your feet lift off them at the bottom stroke, they are supposed to firmly rest on them at ALL POINTS and your knees should bend a little at the bottom stroke.
And applying formulas people with too much time on their hands dreamt up that don't even work in the real world because they all just play with numbers (make up numbers for unknown variables or worse don't even take into account unknown variables like shoe sole thickness, leg length, foot length, where the foot is positioned on the pedal, etc.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html#adjustment) isn't going to help, and uh, the pelvis distance to ground has little to do with proper saddle height (what does that matter when you don't know the leg or foot length or shoe thickness or type of pedal?!). You're in for a world of pain if you rely on faulty formulas to tell you what height your saddle should be at and then ride when it is uncomfortable "because the math just has to be right!" Uh, yea, no professional cyclist relies on such vodoo math, they go for what feels good, mile after mile, first and last.
And I have yet to find a cycling shop that isn't full of kids who don't know what they are talking about (but act like it) or unhelpful old men who just grumble and work on repairing bikes and won't even tell you how to properly lube a bike (they want you to bring it in for repairs).
Anyway, the "barely touch your toes to the ground while straddling" measurement (among a few other tests like hip rocking) works for me (and so does all the above I wrote, not sure what else could be wrong...you're probably the type that uses motor oil or wd-40 on their chain and cables and thinks he's smart for not falling for the expensive lube hype lol) and has for over 15 years. I've never had any cycling injury or strain due to improper seat or handle height adjustment, in fact I've never had any strain of any kind and only a few minor injuries when I was a kid. I'm no competitive cyclist (I don't compete in anything, I think it's rather childish to do so, I cycle for myself only), but I've logged thousands of miles on my old kid bikes ('91 Specialized Hard Rock and 10 speed Motobecane) and over 5,000 on my Trek (according to my Cateye) since getting it 3 years ago (I do about 5-10 miles 5 days a week on average). So if something was wrong with my cycling position I would have known it long ago.
That said, the most important thing is getting a frame size that fits properly (again, don't look to inapplicable formulas or bike employees to help here; get on a size that looks too small and ride it to get the feel, then get on a size that looks too big and do the same, then try for the middle and you'll have it!) and if that was not done it is already too late.
Oh, and yes padded bike shorts can be a life saver; I wear mine under other shorts or sweat pants (I do a lot of winter cycling) so I don't look so stupid. You don't want an oversized or overpadded bike seat since that just gets in the way (and can cause chafing) unless you are going to just cruise around at low speeds, so you need some padding--more than that is on your small and lean saddle--for long rides at least. And of course always wear a helmet. Oh, and hydration packs are lifesavers as well as padded cycle gloves. And get some climbing bars. :thumbup:
/out.
