Help me pick a traditional please...

IMG_20170419_102037.jpg Here are three I can recommend that I carry. I agree that the #83 would be a top choice. It's the one I carry the most (obviously). It does sit at exactly 2.5" though (cutting edge), and I'm not sure if you'll find one at retail, but they do pop up here on the exchange fairly often. I've seen them at the big auction site too, but you're going to pay about double what you should.

The Russlock is a great choice if you need something you can open one handed, and is readily available.

The GEC Calf Roper is a beautiful stockman pattern that will be in production again this year sometime, and you may be able to reserve one at CK.
 
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Keep in mind while shopping for traditional slipjoint knives that they are usually listed by their closed length. Some dealers will also list a blade length, but I have seen the blade length listing vary significantly between dealers of the exact same knife.

In general, main blade lengths are about 1" shorter than the closed length. That varies per pattern, though. But if you look for knives that are 3.5" closed or less, you'd be in the right range.

Case Tru-sharp is 420HC. If you feel 440A is inadequate, you won't like Case's 420HC. If you like the steel on your SAK, then you'll like the Case Tru-sharp 420 HC. They seem about the same to me.

Northwoods is a brand name owned by KnivesShipFree, so if you want that brand, you have to buy from them (or via the secondary market). They are made for KSF on contract. KSF does not manufacture their own knives currently that I am aware of. Most recently, they have contracted with Queen and GEC to make their knives.

There are very few volume producers of traditional style knives left in the US, meaning you would have a regularly available supply of a wide range of patterns. You have Case and Buck.

Buck only makes a few traditional slipjoint patterns in the US (their 30x series) with limited handle material choices. Great knives if they fit your criteria. They also use 420HC but do a good heat treat and run it a little harder than Case does.

There is also Bear and Sons. I have no experience with their product but have read enough posts by others to have formed an opinion about them. I will let you do that research yourself.

Queen is still making knives and if you want better steel than what Case uses, Queen offers D2 steel in many of their knives. I own 3 Queen knives but none of them are of very recent manufacture. I think mine are from 2008 - 2012 time frame. There are some discussions here and there about their quality control in recent years. Again, having no personal experience, I will refrain from comment.

There was a period, ending somewhere in 2013-2014 or so, where you could leisurely browse through dealer stock and pick out a GEC pattern of your choosing from recent runs. More recently, GEC's popularity in the market has exceeded their ability to supply, so new runs usually sell out very quickly, and sometimes the only way to get one is to pre-order or participate in a dealer early-reserve program if offered. Because of the demand and interest, past runs tend to sell for higher prices than the original price, sometimes significantly higher for the most sought-after patterns.

If you are looking for a modern steel in a traditional pattern, that is under 2.5" blade length, made in the US, you are going to have a tough time finding something. The annual Case/Bose collaborations are usually in ATS-34 or 154CM, but they tend to cost about $300 - $450 and you get one pattern to choose from each year, and I don't know if any of them were ever in your size range.

Unless every penny is critical to your survival, I would suggest finding a Case knife in your size range and giving it a try. Decent users at a decent price point. That way you can find out for yourself if the 420HC steel is enough for your needs. It certainly is for me, but I have no idea what you put a pocket knife through every day so my experience may not be germane.
 
Queen may be a reasonable choice but you will most likely be dealing with a nail nick. Depends on the spring strength as to how hard they are to open. Queen makes a lot of their traditionals in D2 steel and a few in ATS-34.

There are some Northwoods coming up on GEC's production schedule.

The small GEC #48 Weasel has a blade length just over 2.5" and it has a 3 7/8" closed length. Both the one and two blade versions are nice knives. Probably too long of a blade for your area.

The #14 Lick Creek Boys knife (GEC made) is a much smaller with a closed length of just over 3" (3.07"). So the blade is small. Nice handy little knife. I like the two blade versions myself (usually a clip and pen). They have a medium strength spring and aren't hard to open.
 
View attachment 698825 Here are three I can recommend that I carry. I agree that the #83 would be a top choice. It's the one I carry the most (obviously). It does sit at exactly 2.5" though, and I'm not sure if you'll find one at retail, but they do pop up here on the exchange fairly often. I've seen them at the big auction site too, but you're going to pay about double what you should.

The Russlock is a great choice if you need something you can open one handed, and is readily available.

The GEC Calf Roper is a beautiful stockman pattern that will be in production again this year sometime, and you may be able to reserve one at CK.
I believe that most laws regarding knife lengths are measured from tip of blade to the front of the bolster. Your image there is only measuring the cutting edge length. All of those knives are too long, and based on my GEC 15, which is same closed length as the 66, the Calf Roper would be too.
 
Thanks so much for the great and informative posts. Yes I like SAK steel so I'm off to the Blade HQ site to scope out the offerings from CASE and BUCK.

Thanks again.
 
The problem here is that anytime anybody asks for a knife suggestion everybody points to various GECs that you're never going to find. GEC is only a good suggestion if their next run is exactly what you're looking for. Otherwise, you're stuck with a secondhand knife that's priced double what you should.

Look at Queens. If you do a search for a Queen 68 doctor's knife you should be able to find some still for sale. It's a great little single blade knife that you can pinch open and has a 2 1/4" blade.

Another option would be to do a search for Schatt & Morgan pint. It'll pull up some different knives from their File & Wire series that are pint-sized, as the name implies. The Pint Gunstock Jack is a nice little knife that has 2 7/8" blades. I believe it was made in both ATS-34 and D2. It does have 2 blades though, so you'll be relegated to nail nick usage. The Kentucky Shiner Pint has a single, pinchable blade that's 2 7/8" long and comes in ATS-34, I don't know if they offered this in D2 but it wouldn't surprise me if they did. They also have what they call a pint mini-barlow that had a 3" blade in ATS-34. I'm sure there are others, but the point is that the pint versions of the File & Wire series would almost all fill your requirements, and they're nice knives to boot. Most were offered in single or double blade versions. The stag handles seem to mostly be D2, whereas the bone handles seem to be in ATS-34. There are some anomalies here, but that's the general rule of thumb.

Another great option that has been mentioned is Schrade Old-Timers. If you are going to go secondhand, this is the way to go. You can find NIB offerings for less than you'd pay for a Case or Buck. They have several options for single blade knives that have blades under 2.5". The 12OT is a single blade peanut that you can easily pinch open. Do a search for Schrade USA to filter out the new ones to fulfill your Made In America requirement and you can come up with several NIB options for under $50.
 
I just did a quick measurement of some of my medium sized Case knives. The 6318 Medium Stockman, 63032 Medium Stockman, and 62032 Small Texas Jack are just barely too long. Like 1/16" inch. With some slight tip modification you could get them there. Or hope if you are ever having your knife measured, the cop isn't that concerned with that slight difference.

The Mini Trapper and Sod Buster Jr are definitely too long.

The 6344 Medium Stockman and any of the '087 patterns (32087 Pen, 22087 or 62087 Jack, 63087 Medium Stockman) are fine. Any of the smaller patterns like the Mini Copperhead and Peanut would work, too.

All of those use nail nicks, so may not meet your criteria otherwise.
 
Go with a vintage Barlow. Nobody freaks out when they see it, proven pattern, and are really cheap if you get like Imperial, Colonial, etc. Even a nice Camillus NY won't set you back too far ;)
 
When checking out Case knives, look for models made with their chrome vanadium (or "CV") blade steel. This is what they call their carbon steel, and it's good stuff. Takes a keen edge and beautiful patina. Unfortunately, it seems a small percentage of their knives are available with CV blades these days.
 
In my experience, Case's 420HC is comparable to whatever steel that Victorinox uses on their SAK blades. Victorinox might be just a smidgen better but I think they are very close. I don't have enough experience with Leatherman blades to comment but I do agree that Buck's 420HC is slightly better than Case's 420HC.

Maybe you could try out an inexpensive Case knife like the Sodbuster JR. in TruSharp just to check out the blade steel. Or maybe one of the Yellow Synthetic knives in TruSharp. Those are usually reasonably priced too so you wouldn't be out much if you didn't like the steel.
 
Bryan,

My comments above were in response to your questions from post #20. I'm still getting used to the new format and didn't see all the posts between here and there. I erroneously thought that my post was #21.:confused:
 
The GEC #83 Tascosa is a nice little traditional lockback with a blade right at 2.5".

83-Tascosa-OD-Green-Micarta.jpg
 
Op here. The Case mini copperlocks have 2.75" blades.

How about the Case Teardrops with 2.5" blades? Anyone tried one of these?

Thanks
 
I'd be careful about a blade that's right on the limits. Usually advertised blade lengths are measuring cutting edge. Reports are that there are several places where the law considers blade length to be from handle to tip. If you cut it too close that tang is the difference between being ok and owing the constable some change. It's worth looking into how they measure in your area or staying well under the limit if there's any ambiguity.
 
I know the law is the law , but is the blade length of your small non threatening slipjoint ever going to be checked ?
I personally would not worry weather the blade of my small slipjoint was right on or 1/16 over length. Cops are generally nice guys and probably wouldn't think to length check if they see you using your small traditional and classy slipjoint. Besides its going to be in your pocket most of the time anyways and nobody's going to know it's there.
Now if you're carrying a 2 bladed folder, you could just make sure your using the small blade in public and since the larger blade and handle are hidden in your hand all anyone will see is a 1.5" knife blade which is instantly recognizable as under length. You're having such a difficult time finding a knife, and for what ? Such a small chance that you'll get length checked ?
 
Another option is a single spring 2 blade knife. You can use the smaller blade when out in public and longer blade back in the bunker.
 
Why not go custom? There are several makers that are members here that will make exactly what you want at a very reasonable price.
 
Not sure what's going on with my pictures... must have missed something in the update...

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Buck 55, Buck 309, newer Buck 503, older Buck 503

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Case swayback jack, Case tear drop, Case mini copperlock x2

Hoping this works...

Ok, no idea what's going on right now. Will have to try again later.

May be working now..
 
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Not sure what's going on with my pictures... must have missed something in the update...

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Hoping this works...

Ok, no idea what's going on right now. Will have to try again later.

Not sure what link you're trying to post. I've used the same Photobucket and imgur codes I used on the old software, and they both worked. I'll help if I can.
 
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