- Joined
- Feb 15, 2022
- Messages
- 42
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Help me sharpen two basic knives that i can't figure out
- Thread starter Against_The_Wind
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2022
- Messages
- 42
https://ibb.co/VYtVzKh
https://ibb.co/HPDWrz7
https://ibb.co/xCxx09r
Let me know if these links work.
If they do, the pics are of my esee 6 on the sm at 40 inclusive.
When I color the secondary bevel with sharpie, the sm does not touch the sharpie on one side of the knife but does touch it on just the apex on the other side.
However, when I go to 26 and 28 on the ws, the sharpie is perfectly taken off the entire secondary bevel.
If I set the ws to 20 degrees, I get the same result as the sm. I have to go to 26+ degrees to properly hit the entire secondary bevel
There is not really a wrong way to clamp in the ws and the only way you could inadvertently change the angle is if you pressed so hard that you slightly bowed the clamp.
If these pics work I will include more, and if there is anything in particular you want to see let me know
Last edited:
Are you using angle cube?
Sorry, double post
They work. Here are the direct links:
They aren't very helpful images though. I don't know exactly what you are trying to show or what you think we're supposed to learn here. We all already know what the sharpmaker looks like with the medium sticks in the 40 degree inclusive (20 degrees per side) slots, and top-down close-up shots of one side of your edge can't communicate the angle.
That's new information. You didn't say that before. Is it possible you screwed up the edge when you used the Worksharp? I think so. If you don't clamp it straight, then that can happen.
Here's what you originally said:
You never mentioned that you were only hitting one side.
I advise you to stick with the Sharpmaker because I think you're not using the Worksharp correctly.
It will take longer to reprofile the knife on the Sharpmaker, but it's better than continuing to mess up your edge.
Last edited:
So,
you have a knife Esee 6 and somehow you have measured secondary bevel with a help of permanent marker on WS - one side 26 degrees and the other side 28 degrees.
No problem. Whatever angle there is.... make a new secondary bevel at the angle you want.
What I would do:
-clamp the knife in Work Sharp precision adjust elite
-put the stone in stone holder
-put the stone on the knife
-reset the ANGLE CUBE (zero on the base)
-use ANGLE CUBE on stone holder and adjust the angle of the stone to 20 degrees
-start gringing and make a new bevel from both sides (20 degrees each side)
As simple as that.
If you don't know how to use WS check some sharpening videos on Youtube.
you have a knife Esee 6 and somehow you have measured secondary bevel with a help of permanent marker on WS - one side 26 degrees and the other side 28 degrees.
No problem. Whatever angle there is.... make a new secondary bevel at the angle you want.
What I would do:
-clamp the knife in Work Sharp precision adjust elite
-put the stone in stone holder
-put the stone on the knife
-reset the ANGLE CUBE (zero on the base)
-use ANGLE CUBE on stone holder and adjust the angle of the stone to 20 degrees
-start gringing and make a new bevel from both sides (20 degrees each side)
As simple as that.
If you don't know how to use WS check some sharpening videos on Youtube.
Last edited:
Based on everything I've read so far, I would strongly advise against using the Worksharp to try and reprofile the knife!
I don't think this poster knows how to use it properly!
Please stick with the Spyderco Sharpmaker! We know that the sticks are angled at 20 degrees! Just use that! Don't screw up your knife even more! Please!
I don't think this poster knows how to use it properly!
Please stick with the Spyderco Sharpmaker! We know that the sticks are angled at 20 degrees! Just use that! Don't screw up your knife even more! Please!
Sooner or later he will had to learn how to use WS.
He wrote he did a lot of research so we should trust him he knows what he's doing.
After all, he will only loose some steel in worst case.
You know.... if you want an omelette you need to break an egg or two (or three).
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2022
- Messages
- 42
Until I just checked again to take the pics, I admit that I had mistaken that the sm was only hitting one side.
However, since it's only hitting the edge of the secondary profile on one side and not at all on the other side, it will take way to long to reprofile as is. I don't have the more coarse stones for the sm.
And to clarify, on the ws, I was just just using the 800 grit with one or two light swipes to simply see where the ws was hitting the entire bevel and removing the sharpie.
So I never actually tried sharpening the esee 6, which is why I posted here first, because i wanted advice on how to proceed, because I don't want to mess up this knife and the bevel seems really odd.
I have contacted ws, and they are going to let me send mine back and I'm going to pay the difference to get the professional model, which clamps larger blades more robustly.
To also be clear, I have watched 15+ videos on the ws, including every video by ws themselves. I also followed the written manual verbatim. I also practiced for two hrs on several old smith and wesson and gerber junk fixed blades.
I was able to sharpen a Becker bk18 on the ws, and I am astounded how well it did. It is above and beyond, that sharpest I have ever gotten a knife, I'm actually in disbelief, I can pop hairs and go through receipt paper like butter along the entire edge.
Last edited:
I guess... but if you're going to screw something up then it's better to learn on a cheap knife.
By the way, the Worksharp Precision Adjust doesn't come with an angle cube. Not even the Elite version includes one. And there was never any mention of having one.
Okay, let's try once again to make this clear: the fact that it is hitting the apex (or microbevel, or secondary bevel, depending on how big it is) on one side proves that that side's primary bevel is LESS THAN 20 degrees, because that's the angle of the sharpmaker's sticks. Get it? Please tell me you at least understand that much.
This means that when you are measuring an angle greater than 20 degrees for that side, YOUR MEASUREMENT IS WRONG. Do you understand that?
What I want to know is where it's hitting on the OTHER side. You're not hitting the apex? So where is the stone hitting the edge?
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2022
- Messages
- 42
If you see my above post to you, I'm going to be swapping out my ws to the professional model, I didn't want to spend the money, but I'm really impressed with this platform.
To be candid, I don't know what an angle cube is, so I'm looking at up before everybody gets their panties in a bunch that I didn't do my research, so I dare not ask what it is.
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2022
- Messages
- 42
Looks like the professional does come with an angle cube, if I'm properly understanding what a cube angle is.
Would someone kindly let me know the advantages of that?
Would someone kindly let me know the advantages of that?
Last edited:
It's a digital angle finder. The Professional model comes with one.
It's more precise. But you have to use it correctly.
Please answer my above question.
Okay, I think I'm starting to figure out one of the areas where you are getting screwed up.
When you sharpen a knife with a micro bevel, you want to sharpen the primary bevel and then add a micro bevel afterwards. You do not want to start by sharpening the micro bevel, and you definitely do not want to measure the micro bevel to determine your bevel angle, because it's not going to give you the actual bevel angle.
All you are accomplishing by sharpening the micro bevel is to make it bigger and turn it into a secondary bevel.
Sharpen the primary bevel. Then add your micro bevel. Or don't add one at all. Definitely don't start out by sharpening the micro bevel, and don't use the micro bevel to measure the edge angle because it's not the angle you want. You want the actual bevel angle, not the angle of the micro bevel. They're different angles.
When you sharpen a knife with a micro bevel, you want to sharpen the primary bevel and then add a micro bevel afterwards. You do not want to start by sharpening the micro bevel, and you definitely do not want to measure the micro bevel to determine your bevel angle, because it's not going to give you the actual bevel angle.
All you are accomplishing by sharpening the micro bevel is to make it bigger and turn it into a secondary bevel.
Sharpen the primary bevel. Then add your micro bevel. Or don't add one at all. Definitely don't start out by sharpening the micro bevel, and don't use the micro bevel to measure the edge angle because it's not the angle you want. You want the actual bevel angle, not the angle of the micro bevel. They're different angles.
Maybe this helps to understand the main principle:
1) The first image shows, why Sharpmaker set at 20° does not reach the secondary bevel and the cutting edge: The knife has a bevel bigger than 20° so you touch the shoulder. That's why you don't get a knife sharp. You would have to thin out the knife (the shoulder).
2) The second image shows a reprofiled edge. The angle is 20° (per side) and matches the Sharpmaker at 20° perfectly. The rod touches the secondary bevel and the cutting edge.
3) The third image shows how to put a microbevel on your edge. The bevel is lower than 20° (per side) so the Sharpmaker rods touches just the edge but not the whole secondary bevel.
What you should do: Reprofile your blade. The bevel should be 20° or less. Than the Sharpmaker will work perfectly to keep your knife sharp. Even if the bevel is less than 20° (so you microbevel), after some time the microbevel will become bigger until it is the secondary bevel. If the bevel is reprofiled to 20° you will hit the secondary bevel like shown in 2).
1) The first image shows, why Sharpmaker set at 20° does not reach the secondary bevel and the cutting edge: The knife has a bevel bigger than 20° so you touch the shoulder. That's why you don't get a knife sharp. You would have to thin out the knife (the shoulder).
2) The second image shows a reprofiled edge. The angle is 20° (per side) and matches the Sharpmaker at 20° perfectly. The rod touches the secondary bevel and the cutting edge.
3) The third image shows how to put a microbevel on your edge. The bevel is lower than 20° (per side) so the Sharpmaker rods touches just the edge but not the whole secondary bevel.
What you should do: Reprofile your blade. The bevel should be 20° or less. Than the Sharpmaker will work perfectly to keep your knife sharp. Even if the bevel is less than 20° (so you microbevel), after some time the microbevel will become bigger until it is the secondary bevel. If the bevel is reprofiled to 20° you will hit the secondary bevel like shown in 2).
Last edited:
I'm sure you did. I can tell from your posts.
Guy McVer, kudos for your patience and willingness to deal with the situation.
I'm sorry but I give up.
- Joined
- May 14, 2012
- Messages
- 11,571
We were all new at sharpening at one point in time. It would be good to remember that.
Some folks learn differently so we need to find a way to communicate what we are trying to explain, sometimes in different ways.
I think that P Papilio response showing what is happening is super helpful for the OP.
Try to show a little patience or I would suggest not posting at all.
Some folks learn differently so we need to find a way to communicate what we are trying to explain, sometimes in different ways.
I think that P Papilio response showing what is happening is super helpful for the OP.
Try to show a little patience or I would suggest not posting at all.
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2022
- Messages
- 42
Yes, understand that now, the picture further down helped also. So I need to figure out what is causing the ws to show 26 and 28 degrees when it appears I am properly hitting the entire bevel from apex to the shoulder.
Well that throws the theory from my previous post out of the window.
But yeah that can't be an accurate measurement, so it would definitely be helpful to figure out what's causing the issue with it.
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2022
- Messages
- 42
Yes, Papilio's picture was extremely helpful, thank you to him or her for that.
I realize that I should be able to visualize that without assistance, but it gets very confusing trying to extrapolate everything said on here into an accurate visual and have certainty I'm doing it correctly.