Square_peg
Gold Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2012
- Messages
- 13,823
I posted this link before but here it is again.
http://axeconnected.blogspot.com/2011/05/notes-on-ax-head-geometry-part-2-of.html
There's a photo of the flat cheeks of the Gransfors Forest axe in the article. I don't own that axe but I do own several flat-cheeked axes. They work fine but they're just a little more effort to use. The bit sticks a little more and the chips don't pop out quite so effortlessly.
When I talk about doing 'detail work' with an axe I'm mainly talking about using as what the old timers called a 'stump axe'. That's not an axe for chopping stumps but rather an axe that would be used one-handed on top of a stump for shaping wooden objects like wooden mauls (hammers or batons), tent and tarp pegs or just reducing the size of a piece for some further bushcraft work with a knife. I'm most comfortable with a small broad hatchet or carpenters hatchet for this work but a boys axe or regular hatchet will do fine. And a boys axe gives you other usage options as well.
http://axeconnected.blogspot.com/2011/05/notes-on-ax-head-geometry-part-2-of.html
There's a photo of the flat cheeks of the Gransfors Forest axe in the article. I don't own that axe but I do own several flat-cheeked axes. They work fine but they're just a little more effort to use. The bit sticks a little more and the chips don't pop out quite so effortlessly.
When I talk about doing 'detail work' with an axe I'm mainly talking about using as what the old timers called a 'stump axe'. That's not an axe for chopping stumps but rather an axe that would be used one-handed on top of a stump for shaping wooden objects like wooden mauls (hammers or batons), tent and tarp pegs or just reducing the size of a piece for some further bushcraft work with a knife. I'm most comfortable with a small broad hatchet or carpenters hatchet for this work but a boys axe or regular hatchet will do fine. And a boys axe gives you other usage options as well.