help me spend my $250 on a sharpening solution

This link will help you regardless of which system you choose. Practice makes habit, perfect practice makes perfect.

https://bladeforums.com/threads/the-seven-secrets-of-sharpening-redux.1628756/

Also, mark your bevel with a Sharpie to make sure that you're actually sharpening where you think you are.

I'm currently using a $13 harbor freight 4 sided diamond stone (200, 300, 400, 600 grit) then a Sharpmaker. I have a KO Worksharp and a bunch of other stuff, but the setup I have now is the simplest and quickest way for me to get hair whittling.
 
Another option. Many folks have used the harbor freight 1 x 30 belt sander as a knife sharpener. $52 plus if you look hard enough, you can find a 20% off coupon (that was a joke btw). Just add some belts. Check youtube for vids if you have a few mins. Now you can spend that $250 on knives...just a thought. I'm not trying to poo poo sharpening systems.
 
It'll take a while but I'd suggest getting some bench stones and investing some time with some lousy knives until you figure out the zen thing.
It's very satisfying to get hair popping sharpness with hand skills instead of being dependent on mechanical assists.
I can get hair popping sharp edges with basic DMT stones and some strops with diamond paste down to .125 microns.
 
T
Norton Crystolon JB8
DMT Duo sharp fine /extra fine
Spyderco ultra fine 3x8

I wish someone would have told me to get these before spending a few grand experimenting.
Would not have listened anyways but if I had to choose only 3, it would be these stones.
That is an excellent setup to get ridiculously sharp edges.
I forgot to mention my ultra fine spyderco ceramic. I'll never get rid of that beaut.
 
Is there any maintenance with the stones? Like, do you have to level them off from time to time? I saw one of the sharpening systems with some add on like that. I'm getting kind of interested in the stones now.
 
Is there any maintenance with the stones? Like, do you have to level them off from time to time? I saw one of the sharpening systems with some add on like that. I'm getting kind of interested in the stones now.
Japanese water stones often need flattening and can be victimized with bad technique. Freakishly high polished and lazer sharp edges, though.
Ceramic stones are great and you don't need water or oil so its a relatively clean process. The spyderco medium is prone to clogging and one can spend a bit of time scrubbing out the metal with toothpaste or an eraser... kind of a pain. The fine and extra fine don't clog. I believe those are closed cell ceramics instead of open cell like the medium (think I got that right)
If you're using steels that have a lot of vanadium or other super hard element, diamond stones will cut the carbides instead of tearing them out and losing the benefit of the silly hard carbide properties.
Diamond stones typically don't require maintenance. The diamonds are often bedded into relatively soft metals and can be torn out if one uses to much force when using them. Light passes on diamond stones work just fine.
Softer steels like 1095, O1, A2 and the like? I'll always have a thing for Arkansas stones. I can get those steels lazer sharp with true Arkansas stones.
Too much info, I guess, particularly since its worth 2 cents.
 
Is there any maintenance with the stones? Like, do you have to level them off from time to time? I saw one of the sharpening systems with some add on like that. I'm getting kind of interested in the stones now.

Well, if you're open to free hand sharpening then that is awesome. Nothing at all wrong with systems but I do prefer free hand sharpening.

I posted a thread here a while back about the minimum four stones people would put into a kit. Might search for it as it has some good recommendations.

There are a ton of different routes you can go. Some will be more specific to certain steel types and desired results and others will handle just about everything. There's as many opinions on what is best as there are options.

A course or medium SiC (think Norton Crystolon) and a medium or fine AlO (think Norton India) can handle most everything. Baryonyx (sp?) is owned by @FortyTwoBlades and he has very popular stones as well and can make a recommendation. But, these types of stones all do wear and dish. Not as quickly as water stones but they do indeed wear. Diamonds will wear also. They don't dish but they do lose their abrasive over time.

If I really had to give a bare bones, best thing to start recommendation? I'd have to say a 300grit UltraSharp 8"x3" diamond stone and either a 600grit diamond or a Spyderco Medium bench stone. I like a strop as well but you can make one of those easily enough if you don't want to spend money (cardboard, denim, paint sticks, etc. can all be used). A bar of green compound (CrO) is pretty cheap and will last you like seven life times. It isn't great for super steels though so you might need to consider diamond sprays/pastes/etc.

I don't have a Spyderco Medium bench stone (though I might just get one) but they'll last forever and everything I've seen on them is that they produce a good edge.

In general, I like toothier, lower grit edges but there is a place for more refined edges as well.

Stick to larger stones. In the long run you'll be glad you did. I believe 8" is a really good balance. With the larger stones you can do a one inch pen knife or an 8" chef's knife. Much more versatility than the 6" options.

Your steels, your desired results, etc. will all be a factor sooner or later.

It is challenging but don't get overwhelmed or intimidated. That's easy to do when starting out. People make it out to be a mystical art and the sheer volume of choices and opinions can be a lot to take in. Working edges are not that difficult to achieve if you follow fundamentals and learn the basics of sharpening. As mentioned, a permanent marker is your best friend here! Know that a lot of what you see and hear is folks who already have the basics down and are simply diving deeper into the rabbit hole. It's a really deep hole if you want to keep going down it but it is not necessary to get acceptably sharp knives.

That's just scratching the surface and just my own rambling thoughts. There's a bunch of other ways you can go as well and be just as happy. The folks in this forum are awesome so never hesitate to ask questions.
 
Last edited:
Another vote for the KME.

I have the Sharpmaker and most of the mid and lower end sharpeners like DMT, Lansky, and EP clones. If I had to do it all over again, I'd get the KME

The Sharpmaker is great for maintaining a sharp edge. (I keep mine in the kitchen.) But for repairing or reprofiling, you need to buy the optional diamond rods or, preferably, the CBN rods. And for the modern steels, like those you list, you'll want diamond or CBN.

Why do you prefer the CBN rods over the diamond?

I don't have either one for the Sharpmaker, but am thinking of buying some.

I have numerous diamond plates and DMT Diafolds, and just figured I would get diamonds.

What do you like better about the CBN?
 
I always sharpened my blades on bench stones learned when I was 40 years younger. Damn I'm getting old! Last summer I got a KME mostly because of my fear of messing up a edge on one of my high end blades with "super steels" it's a nice easy to use system mine came with the diamond stones. I recently reprofiled a fix blade on my KME the shines went through it like butter and the edge is beautiful. Honestly I still prefer using bench stones.
 
I started out with a Lansky and didn’t like it nearly at all. Nowadays it just sits in its box, only opened to snag a few of it’s ceramic stones to finish some of my knives. I eventually got a few benchstones and I much preferred them. It’s the best way to start out, in my opinion. Learn the basics first. You don’t need to buy the really expensive ones right away. It took me a while to get it down, and I’ll be the first to admit that I still screw up once in a while, but I do prevail more often than I don’t.

I recently bought a Sharpmaker just to give it a try and I like it for quick touch ups. I’ve gotten some of my sharpest knives off of it and I’ve only owned it a few months. I’m still new to it so I have to give it a little more time before I know if it’s the right one for me or if I’ll be back to the stones. A diamond stone is invaluable these days, though.
 
Why do you prefer the CBN rods over the diamond?
I don't have either one for the Sharpmaker, but am thinking of buying some.
I have numerous diamond plates and DMT Diafolds, and just figured I would get diamonds.
What do you like better about the CBN?
CBN cuts just as well as Diamond. For most uses, there's no discernable difference.

But, for the Sharpmaker, the CBN rods are preferred. As I recall, according to Sal, the CBN rods are made with a different substrate which holds the CBN particles to the rod better. The implication being that the Sharpmaker CBN rods should last longer than their Diamond rods.
 
First try sharpening a recurve with the KME and a Hewlett JewelStik 1-2-3 Diamond Hone. I never could have done this with Bench stone but then again I always sucked at free hand.
tI7A6mZ.jpg
 
Another option. Many folks have used the harbor freight 1 x 30 belt sander as a knife sharpener. $52 plus if you look hard enough, you can find a 20% off coupon (that was a joke btw). Just add some belts. Check youtube for vids if you have a few mins. Now you can spend that $250 on knives...just a thought. I'm not trying to poo poo sharpening systems.
I have a 1x30. I've had it for about 10+ years. I don't really recommend it for most people.....

I've used it on knives in the 1k range, but it is super easy to absolutely destroy your knives. They are high speed, no changing speed, and they are a bit more "bouncy" also.
 
Back
Top