Help my edge is chipping.

[Jason Fry]

Stainless under 1/8, I grind after heat treat. Slipjoints I typically use 3/32. I drill holes and rough fit prior to HT, but I'd say 50% of the fitup occurs after HT. I grind my bevels toward the end of the process, after I've got the liners/handle/etc built and the spring/blade fitted.

 

[Bob Ohlemann]

That's good to know. I did all the fitting first to make sure it worked before I ground the bevels and put time into finishing, but I heat treated it last. I wonder then if this applies to all small knives? A lot of neckers and such have blades around the same size as folders . I was under the impression that as long as you left the edge thickness to the recommended measurement for the steel that was all there was to be concerned about.

I grind all my stainless blades, folder & fixed, pre-hardened. I grind carbon Damascus folder blades pre-hardened. As I mentioned earlier, I will put a bevel on W2 blades to encourage a good hamon but, I leave .060" on the edge and do a lot of grinding after HT. I have only recently begun to forge blades and they get hand finished to 400 grit before HT. Different techniques for different situations.

Bob

 

[Don Hanson III]

I grind all blades to 85% before heat treating, even folders.

 

[Bob Ohlemann]

I grind all blades to 85% before heat treating, even folders.

But you're a superhero!

Bob

 

[Don Hanson III]

But you're a superhero!

Bob

I would disagree with that, Bob. I just find the easiest most efficient way to do stuff.

 

[Ryan J]

I would disagree with that, Bob. I just find the easiest most efficient way to do stuff.

So I wonder if the enlarged grain structure due to over heating can be fixed by redoing the entire heat treat? I understand that means I'd have to grind the edge flat again.

 

[Don Hanson III]

So I wonder if the enlarged grain structure due to over heating can be fixed by redoing the entire heat treat? I understand that means I'd have to grind the edge flat again.

You would need to normalized the blade 3 times to refine the grain. With the blade in it's thin, finished size I don't think it's a good idea. Just make a new blade for it.

 

[Varga Knives]

I think all folder blades should be ground after HT regardless of who does it. I do however, put an initial bevel on W2 folder blades to aid in creating a hamon.

I grind all my stainless blades, folder & fixed, pre-hardened. I grind carbon Damascus folder blades pre-hardened. As I mentioned earlier, I will put a bevel on W2 blades to encourage a good hamon but, I leave .060" on the edge and do a lot of grinding after HT.

Hey Bob. Just confused as to which way you do it? I've been grinding my folder blades (.14 stainless) to practically finished before HT and haven't had issues.

 

[Bob Ohlemann]

Hey Bob. Just confused as to which way you do it? I've been grinding my folder blades (.14 stainless) to practically finished before HT and haven't had issues.

In my folder process, which I have been doing for much less time than Don, I profile, drill and ream the pivot and fit the blade to the knife before heat treating. I may also surface grind the blade if there is going to be a major thickness change from the original stock. I will also install and contour the bolsters, backspacer and scales before HT. When my handle is pretty much finished, I verify the fit of the blade and do last minute profiling before HT. After HT, I do final surface grind, grind lock face, cut the lockbar, fit the lock, set the detent, then grind my bevels. Basically, when I'm finished grinding the bevels, there is nothing left to do on the knife except hand finishing.

I don't think there is any one right way to do anything in knifemaking. This is how I was taught and it makes sense to me. Every one of my blades is perfectly centered because there is no chance of warping after the grind. I have talked to a lot of folder makers and I think the majority harden their blades before grinding the bevels. I think if you are comfortable with the way you're doing it, stick with that. If you have to fix warps or have trouble getting centered blades, try hardening the blade first.

Bob

 

[Varga Knives]

Thanks Bob. Fixing warped blades IS something I am very good at by necessity but I just can't imagine torturing myself with bevelling 62 Rc s110v. When I work on some softer soft I may give it a try.