Help needed 5160

Revolverrodger

Revolverrodger

Joined
Jul 23, 2007
Messages
3,889
I bought some 5160 from knifemakers.ca and started grinding my knife.
It takes forever so I suspect it is already hardened. When I try to drill the holes in the tang the drill press will barely scratch the surface
What can I do to get it soft and make it easier to grind and drill ?
At the same time could you recommend a complete heat treat protocol (this is a 1/4 inch 10'' blade)
Thanks in advance !
 
Heat it to non magnetic and then let it slowly cool, by plunging it into some sand or vermiculite and leaving it till it's cool. That should anneal it for you. You will need a fire source to anneal and reharden it later, like a forge or kiln. An acetylene torch would also work, or a decent coal or camp fire even. Annealing it is easier than hardening it back up. You might want to send it out for professional heat treat after you get it ready for that step.
 
Machine shop can drill your holes for a couple bucks. Belt grinder will grind a hardened blade. However, without knowing who and how the heat treat/temper cycle was done, it'd be a risk to use it after finishing it. To anneal the 1095 files that I have, I clamp them between two pieces of mild steel and just toss them under the embers in the wood stove. Open the draft to max, and presto! next morning soft and ready, usually with only minimal warping. As far as heat treat instructions, there are many stickies on the forums here. Google is your friend.
 
It is not hardened. It was shipped annealed, if it came from a knife supplier.
It takes metal grinding belts on a grinder, sharp files, and metal grade sandpaper to shape a blade. It also takes time and elbow grease.
 
What sort of bits are you using in the drill press? Though I never heard of this happening from any suppliers I know of, if it really is in a hardened state, then annealing is what needs to be done - and even if it's not, annealing it anyway shouldn't regress the quality of the steel. However, the first time I did stock removal on 5160, it didn't simply wear down my cutting discs - it devoured them before my very eyes. I see you also had a question about the heat treatment. I have a little experience with 5160, and I'm sure others will chime in to give more or better advice, eventually. I heat it to roughly 1500 F in my forge and maintain a soak for about 5-7 minutes for a 1/4" thickness, then quench in canola oil preheated to about 130 F. Keep in mind that canola oil does not have the same heat capacity as water, and thus will take 5 or 6+ gallons of it for a blade of that size to cool quickly enough. It doesn't take much to temper it after quenching, about 300 - 325 F for an hour or two.
 
Yes it still has scale on it
I previously drilled some O1 tool steel with no problem at all. This time with the 5160 the drill will barely go through the scale...
 
I have bought 5160 from knifemaking.com and had no problems grinding and drilling it. You typically won't get hardened steel, especially from a well established knife making vendor. Try sharpening your drill bits or get some new ones. And remember have fun!
 
Thanks guys it probably is the hard scale !
I will try to grind it off
As you say BallewBlade knife making is great fun !
 
Perhaps the more experienced guys can comment on this, but I had trouble drilling 5160 in the past, too. It work hardens very quickly, and if your bit is a little dull, it will harden the surface of the steel as it spins. If the holes are big, you might need to drill a small pilot hole first, so the bigger bit can really get ahold of it.
 
Bladsmth and Lucy: thank you !
Indeed it was the scale. I removed it with sand paper and I was able to drill though the 5160 like butter !
I had no idea scale was so tough.
Thanks again guys for helping a new guy
 
Sodium bisulfate or AKA PH minus sold by the local pool store will also take the scale off. It's less vicious than muriatic and sulfuric acid, but still needs to be handled with care, but it removes forge scale and rust like a champ.
 
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