- Joined
- Feb 5, 2013
- Messages
- 194
I admit about all I know about knives is what I have read when I come here to figure out something about heat treating the occasional woodworking blade I make. I always end up spending a lot more time reading about knives and getting that itch... but I'm rather somewhat (totally) clueless about knife models and am only at the "oh, I've heard of them!" [Insert private, subconscious patting of self on back] level of knowledge (by which I mean ignorance) when it comes to makes.
So, on with my search...
I'm open to used knives if they would be a really good choice.
For the edc I'm after something that works in a large hand (doesn't mean it had to be large itself).
EDIT Profile: sheepsfoot, warncliff, tanto, straight back... I find a short straight section on the end, like on a clip of drop point, makes the curve itself get in the way, probably a technique issue. No recurve for easier sharpening.
Grind: hollow, full flat or chisel would give me registration s surfaces when using it somewhat like a paring cut with a chisel.
Uses: paring/whittling/slicing, not chopping.
Lock and opening: Lack of play is important, one hand use would be great but not critical.
Steel: fancy steel less so. I love using 1084, the feeling while sharpening it, the edge... I have no experience with the more complex steels so could go either way. Not worries about rust on exposed surfaces, but will keeping it clean and oiled prevent rust in the portion around the hinge? If so, then I put that issue below all the other factors, fine to have but no need.
Origin: I'll scrounge another $25 if made in USA.
A while ago (year? Two??) I saw a long thread about a new budget edc knife that people were excited about. Different blade shapes available, was a little hard to find in stock. Probably describes a bunch, right?
The second knife is for shop use, when I need a knife instead of a chisel and for using as a larger marking knife. A very keen edge is important. I think a true one-sided chisel grind with bevel on right (knife held edge down pointing out). I'll need to really push on some cuts, score with point in others. I actually think the blade should not be that long and a thinner blade is fine - won't see any prying use. A square back is useful if i refine it into a sharp 90°, in which case I'll relieve edges where my thumb might press. I'm very open to bare blades, would be a fun first step down the rabbit hole. 1084 feels nicer to sharpen than any of the other steels i have, might be in my head.
I'm barely ok at sharpening knives but quite experienced with sharpening a variety of woodworking handtools. I do have dmt duosharps w/4 grits, a couple water stones, a strop, but my favorite for my one good kitchen knife remains the dmt credit card size stones. I need to learn to do it right.
I've tried to give enough detail to make it possible.
Thanks for any suggestions!
So, on with my search...
I'm open to used knives if they would be a really good choice.
For the edc I'm after something that works in a large hand (doesn't mean it had to be large itself).
EDIT Profile: sheepsfoot, warncliff, tanto, straight back... I find a short straight section on the end, like on a clip of drop point, makes the curve itself get in the way, probably a technique issue. No recurve for easier sharpening.
Grind: hollow, full flat or chisel would give me registration s surfaces when using it somewhat like a paring cut with a chisel.
Uses: paring/whittling/slicing, not chopping.
Lock and opening: Lack of play is important, one hand use would be great but not critical.
Steel: fancy steel less so. I love using 1084, the feeling while sharpening it, the edge... I have no experience with the more complex steels so could go either way. Not worries about rust on exposed surfaces, but will keeping it clean and oiled prevent rust in the portion around the hinge? If so, then I put that issue below all the other factors, fine to have but no need.
Origin: I'll scrounge another $25 if made in USA.
A while ago (year? Two??) I saw a long thread about a new budget edc knife that people were excited about. Different blade shapes available, was a little hard to find in stock. Probably describes a bunch, right?
The second knife is for shop use, when I need a knife instead of a chisel and for using as a larger marking knife. A very keen edge is important. I think a true one-sided chisel grind with bevel on right (knife held edge down pointing out). I'll need to really push on some cuts, score with point in others. I actually think the blade should not be that long and a thinner blade is fine - won't see any prying use. A square back is useful if i refine it into a sharp 90°, in which case I'll relieve edges where my thumb might press. I'm very open to bare blades, would be a fun first step down the rabbit hole. 1084 feels nicer to sharpen than any of the other steels i have, might be in my head.
I'm barely ok at sharpening knives but quite experienced with sharpening a variety of woodworking handtools. I do have dmt duosharps w/4 grits, a couple water stones, a strop, but my favorite for my one good kitchen knife remains the dmt credit card size stones. I need to learn to do it right.
I've tried to give enough detail to make it possible.
Thanks for any suggestions!
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(hope they come with a lifetime supply of little Band-Aids). I don't have experience with a wide range of known steels but antique chisels and plane blades, and O1 and 1084 blades I have mostly feel great to sharpen, as does the laminated Japanese kitchen knife, while the cheaper chisels feel off - some mostly stainless steel.