Help picking a bow?

Joined
Feb 25, 2008
Messages
396
So I want a bow for deer season. I grew up shooting recurves, but I have been throwing around the idea of picking up a compound bow due to the fact that I will not have a ton of time to practice shooting.

I'm looking for the best bang for my buck in either a recurve or a compound bow.

I am open to anything. What would you guys recommend?
 
Martin Hunter is a sick recurve bow. I've always liked martin bows for both their price tag and performance. Watch ebay once you've picked your model because I got mine for 110 bucks with a new set of Easton gamegetters...
 
Too wide opened of a question. First decide weather you want to go with a recurve or a compound. A well made modern recurve set up with carbon arrows and a DAS sight is a formidable weapon. http://www.3riversarchery.com/product.asp?i=8176X
The only problem with compounds is that it is like having a sports car, There is always "one more" widget to put on, and no mater how well it works your always tuning the thing.
There are other questions you need to think of, like weather you are going to shoot with a release aid or fingers. Is you want to shoot with your fingers you need a long axle to axle bow. (for a compound) Wont mater with a recurve.
 
Those sites are freakin SWEEET!

My biggest hesitation with the recurve was my concern about being effective with the weapon given my limited amount of time to practice. That site seems like it would change the game a bit.

So if I go with a recurve and I'm open to modern technology, what would you recommend?
 
In a perfect world, I want a recurve that is easy to shoot, durable, inexpensive, and good enough to last me for a few years.
 
Way back when, I started with a Ben Pearson recurve, then got sucked into the compound thing; bought a Mathews and an Alpine and a boatload of sights, rests, stabilizers, grips, peeps, dampeners, etc.. Now, I'm back to recurves... plain, simple and natural.

There are plenty of deals to be had if you do your homework. I have a couple of nice old Bear recurves that I picked up for a song. If the limbs are straight and the tips are good, you can't go wrong. Start hitting the yard sales and classifieds.

For a most excellent book that will guide you through the whole sport, I strongly recommend a copy of Tony Camera's Shooting the Stickbow. It is the most complete, best-written archery book I've ever seen.

Don't forget to check out Archery Talk... the archery version of BladeForums.

Stay sharp,
desmobob
 
I think you are on the right track looking at compound bows, because of your lack of time to practice. (I am not saying you don't have to practice if you buy a compound bow)

I own 6 different compounds from Mathews and Martin Archery. There are plenty of good products from the major manufacturers.

The most important thing IMO is proper fit for a compound bow. It all starts there. If you can make it to a good archery shop and get fitted you will be way ahead of the game. good shops are not easy to find.

Good luck if you chose to jump back into the sport with training wheels.

Paul
 
IMO it took me longer to learn a compound than it did a recurve. There are so many things you need to watch out for with a compound bow, your sights are not aligned, your rest is tweaked, your cables are worn out, laddy daddy dah. I still to this day prefer my recurve over my compounds just because they are so might lighter, simpler to use, and more true to the sport of archery. If you want a 10 pound chunk of fiberglass with a bunch of stuff hanging off of it you might as well get yourself a rifle. There are high powered recurves, if you are looking to hunt bigger game or at longer range. The Howard Hill in my closet has a 70# pull. As with a rifle I highly recommend you at least hold it before you buy it-you don't have to buy it locally but at least get hands on with it make sure it fits right and it is exactly what you are looking for. It took me about two hours to get accurate enough at 15 yards to feel capable to hunt. Just hit the range over lunch for a few days, work on your technique, be diligent about it and you'll do fine for hunting season.
 
Last edited:
I have been fixing other folks bows for the last 30 years. I can fix or make anything in archery. Witch is exactly why I shoot a longbow. A stick, a string, and some arrows, I good.

There are so many good recurve bows out that it is really a mater of personal choice. I can recommend some general ideas.
Get a bow that is at least 58" long (recurve) Longer means smother in traditional bows.
Look for a riser that is center cut and drilled for an adjustable arrow rest.
Leave your first batch of arrows full length. You can always cut then later. Long arrows carry more weight for deeper penetration, stabilize in flight faster, and are easer to aim if you shoot instinctive.
 
It took me about two hours to get accurate enough at 15 yards to feel capable to hunt

If you became proficient enough in 2 hours then I would say you are one in 10,000, a natural. Congratulations

I usually give people the benefit of the doubt but I really question that statement. If you are a ethical hunter I can't see it taking 2 hours to learn how to shoot and feel confident to make a ethical shot.
 
I'm confident enough with my skills to make a 15 yard ethical shot, but not confident enough in my stalking skills to get that close :grumpy:
 
Well I have a free range 3 blocks away and in the 2 months I've lived here, I'm the only one I have ever seen use it-and I'm out there every 2-3 days. It is NOT complicated to learn to shoot instinctive.
 
The best values in a quality recurve IMHO are the Quinn Stallion for a takedown metal riser and a CheckMate Falcon in a one piece wood and fiberglass laminated bow.

There are examples of both for sale right now in the classifieds at tradgang.I don't have any info about the sellers good or bad.

I've been shooting trad archery for years,have owned dozens of bows and shot lots more.I like trad archery better myself but a compound doesn't require the same level of practice to get deadly.
 
You will also want to think about arrows. I never realised that there was such a variety. If you are shooting at archery targets I cannot recommend the wooden ones, they are too flimsy. Of the 9 I bought 3 are already broken.

I got a 50lbs Samick SMK and the impact of the arrows has both buried the head so deep the tip pulled right off on removal and the plastic nock?? on the back bounces off on impact.

I think I will go for fibreglass for shooting in the back garden.
 
Find an Archery shop and range in your area, go and check it out, talk to the people, they will teach you a lot, give you hands on advice and then you can make a better choice for you, they are nice people ;)
 
Compounds can be more accurate and take less time to learn to shoot. My experience with them is that you always need an allen wrench with you to tighten up all the accessories which will loosen up and fall off during a shot. Good ol' recurves and longbows are hard to beat for simplicity and getting off shots quicker. They're purtier, too. They can be expensive, though. Martin makes some good ones.:thumbup:
 
This has been some great info. I never thought about cutting down the arrows or the complications that could come with that.

That said- I'm going to go shopping for a recurve that is at least 58" long, that is drilled to take an adjustable rest and has at least a 60lb draw. (I know that draw weights can be an issue, but I'm still young enough where this isn't a problem)
 
+1 for Martin bows. I picked up a 50# Rebel two summers ago and I love it. It only took a week or so of practice to get my groupings pretty tight, but I'm pretty out of practice right now. It's not like riding a bike. :p I've shot my fair share of compounds, but nothing beats hitting a bullseye at a decent distance with a traditional bow.
 
I have a Martin Stick longbow. Always wanted something from Blackwidow
 
Back
Top