Help picking a bow?

[mtnfolk mike]

i'm also an avid traditional archer/bowhunter... you can't beat the simplicity of a simple longbow and/or recurve... they do take a bit more practice and require a little more patience, in the begining.. but it is far worth it... both of my boys ages 6 and 11 have been shooting since they were 4 and the misses is also a longbow shooter...

check out the "Traditional Bowhunters Handbook" by T.J. conrads... it'll answer a lot of questions you might have and is a great read for tradtional archers of all skill levels.. T.J. is the founder/ediitor for Traditional Bowhunter magazine.... the book is available through them www.tradbow.com or www.3riversarchery.com

 

[jlouis976]

This has been some great info. I never thought about cutting down the arrows or the complications that could come with that.

That said- I'm going to go shopping for a recurve that is at least 58" long, that is drilled to take an adjustable rest and has at least a 60lb draw. (I know that draw weights can be an issue, but I'm still young enough where this isn't a problem)

 

[R.H.Clark]

Go over to some of the trad bow sites and do some research.

If you want to get to be a good shot with a trad bow don't start with 60lbs.45lbs would be a much better choice.Heavier weight to start will cause bad habits in form.You have to get form down first and then increase weight.

Unless you have a very short draw 60" or longer bow will be easier to shoot accurately.

For tuning try the tuning section at www.bowmaker.net

I do shoot well enough to be able to give good advise in this area.

 

[R.H.Clark]

For some reason the tuning section does not show up on the link I posted.It is however the yellow - mark directly under home.Just click on the - mark under Home.

 

[stingray4540]

You will also want to think about arrows. I never realised that there was such a variety. If you are shooting at archery targets I cannot recommend the wooden ones, they are too flimsy. Of the 9 I bought 3 are already broken.

I got a 50lbs Samick SMK and the impact of the arrows has both buried the head so deep the tip pulled right off on removal and the plastic nock?? on the back bounces off on impact.

I think I will go for fibreglass for shooting in the back garden.

Woah, if you are making your arrows I would look into using a different adhesive, or make sure you are using the one you use correctly. If you are buying them already put together, then find a different supplier.

I shoot woods, and the only time they ever break is when I miss the target, and even then 50% of the time they survive. I shoot a 40lb. bow, but I shoot with a lot of guys that range up to 60lb. and I have never seen that there is a problem with penetrating too deep. Penetration is what you want, your tips should not be pulling off under any circumstances. I've enven pulled tips out of 4x4s without damage.

This has been some great info. I never thought about cutting down the arrows or the complications that could come with that.

That said- I'm going to go shopping for a recurve that is at least 58" long, that is drilled to take an adjustable rest and has at least a 60lb draw. (I know that draw weights can be an issue, but I'm still young enough where this isn't a problem)

Wait! Make sure you shoot the bow you want to buy before you buy it. Most shops have a range and will let you try any of there bows before you buy them.

I don't care how strong you are 60lb is way to heavy. You use different muscles when shooting a bow, and I can almost guarantee that you will have problems, and get frustrated if you start with something that heavy.

Most states you can easily hunt with 30 or 40 lb bows, check your regulations. I would think you would do much better with a 40 to 45lb bow, then next year, if you feel the need move up to a 50 to 55 lb bow.



All that being said, I think you will have fun with the compound. Try to get out and shoot as much as possible, but don't overshoot to the point you are practicing bad habits from being tired.
I'm pretty new to the sport, Mtnfolkmike and boomstick got me into it. I started last Christmas with the longbow my wife got me, and I placed third in a shoot this spring. I'm not great or anything, but in that amount of time, I have come a long way from knowing nothing about bows, and I would be confident enough to hunt up to 15 yards. Oh, and did I mention I only shoot once a week?

So, if you get out and shoot at least 2-3 times a week, practice good form, and you aren't over-bowed, I think you will have a good chance to be accurate enough with a recurve to hunt this season. Just make sure you find out at what distance you are accurate to, and don't take a shot further than that.

P.S. Get that book mtnfolk mike mentioned. traditional bowhunters handbook, it helped me a lot.

 

[Ramm9]

If you want to get to be a good shot with a trad bow don't start with 60lbs.45lbs would be a much better choice.Heavier weight to start will cause bad habits in form.You have to get form down first and then increase weight.

This is sound advice and worth repeating, especially with traditional bows. Being "over-bowed" (in my case "under-muscled) will have you adjusting form and make the learning curve longer.

A lighter draw will allow for longer practice sessions with less fatigue.

In a hunting situation you may have to hold at full draw before a good shot presents itself so if you have good strength maybe go with 50# which is more than enough for deer.

 

[shike]

Excellent advice given here. A 50 # bow is more than adequate for deer. As far as brands I used a Damon Howett "Super Diablo".

 

[hung-solo]

I own a Bowtech and i am very happy with it. if you do not want to pay that kind of $$ for one and want one with the same lifetime warranty then go with a Diamond compound bow. they are made my bowtech just cheaper and comes with the same warranty..

 

[hung-solo]

i'm also an avid traditional archer/bowhunter... you can't beat the simplicity of a simple longbow and/or recurve... they do take a bit more practice and require a little more patience, in the begining.. but it is far worth it... both of my boys ages 6 and 11 have been shooting since they were 4 and the misses is also a longbow shooter...

check out the "Traditional Bowhunters Handbook" by T.J. conrads... it'll answer a lot of questions you might have and is a great read for tradtional archers of all skill levels.. T.J. is the founder/ediitor for Traditional Bowhunter magazine.... the book is available through them www.tradbow.com or www.3riversarchery.com

nice

 

[Shore08]

I just got into archery as well, and I am having a blast shooting Trad. I made a longbow out of hickory (I was lucky enough to have some great help!) and the first arrow out of it was the first arrow I ever fired. I also have an old Red Wing Hunter recurve I picked up for a song, and it is a blast to shoot. It is 45# and has taken deer and other game (not by me, but by the previous owner. I'm not good enough yet for that ). Enjoy it!

 

[jlouis976]

I can't thank you guys enough.

So, with all this info......I'm kinda getting stuck and I've got a few more questions. I didn't think the 60lb bow would be a problem considering my fitness level, but from what you guys have said it is making me question the bow even with my strength.

I'd really like a bow that will allow my to screw in a site and a rest if I choose to do so. I'm open on the materials (wood or fiberglass). I just want something that works.

Do you have an entry price level bow that you would recommend that would allow me those options? I went to archery talk on the recommendation of some guys here and.....well I think I offended the Traditional guys when I mentioned a whisper biscuit.

 

[bikermikearchery]

Repeat start with a 45# bow and no heaver.
These are wooden arrows. Made properly they will function and be as durable as any other material.

 

[Shore08]

Haha, yeah, you have to be careful. Some of the trad guys are REALLY traditional. You may also be surprised to find you might also not need the site once you get the hang of shooting. Pick a spot, stare it down, and let er fly . Also, if I understand correctly (and I'm still new at all this) you can add a site to just about any bow as long as you are willing to put a hole in it

I didn't notice this site listed previously, but I got it from someone on here.

www.tradgang.com

It's another good trad site to try out.

The advice I was given was to look for some of the cheaper bear recurves. Some of the sites have for sale sections, and you could pick up a deal there. I got mine at a traditional shoot. I ran into a guy and his son and kind of buddied up to them. He had a bow he was looking to sell but said that I could just shoot it for the weekend and if I liked it, I could have it for 1/2 of what he was trying to get. He also threw in some arrows, a quiver, and a finger tab. Your mileage may vary, but it doesn't hurt to check out a local shoot if you can, you may find a deal there.

 

[R.H.Clark]

For a new bow that will accept sights and rests and such you cannot beat a Quinn Stallion.They are about $270 new but around $200 used.It's a three piece bow and you can get heavier limbs later for a very good price if you want.I know several target trad guys that like the Stallion better than much more expensive bows.

I do not like the PSE recurves.An older Bear or Pearson would be a cheaper choice but you need to know that the used bow is in good condition and that the seller is knowledgeable enough to know the condition.Point is that on the auction site I've seen recurves listed in great condition but the seller has them strung backwards in the picture.

With the geometry of most trad bows a whisker biscuit would probably block your site picture.

Do a search on Quinn archery and you will find the site.The folks are out of Texas and have a history of archery excellence.Both Mom and daughter have held high level titles.There is also a good tuning section called Tuning for Tens. Lots of good bows there but the Stallion is a great hunting and 3D bow geared more toward hunting.