Help: Removing Anodizing from Chavez Megalodon

JackstrawIII

JackstrawIII

Joined
Jan 25, 2015
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429
Hey, maybe you guys can help me out with this.

I recently acquired this knife on the forum here, and the knife itself is truly awesome. However, I am definitely not a fan of the purple anodizing that was done. I wish I'd be told about it ahead of time, but whatever.

Can anyone recommend a safe way to remove the anodizing without ruining the finish or messing with the tolerances on the knife? Thanks, pic below.

2016-01-19 08.09.15.jpg
 
What finish is on the handle? I've found that a little bit of scrubbing with fine steel wool removes anodizing.
 
S.Alexander said:
What finish is on the handle? I've found that a little bit of scrubbing with fine steel wool removes anodizing.
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From the texture, it looks like the original finish was bead blasted and it's chemically anodized, vs heat anodized. That's my best guess.
 
There are many different kinds of anodizing, if it's just a color anodizing the it will come off but if it's a dyed hard coat anodize good luck. That stuff is very hard and even sanding won't touch it. Back in the day we got these huge aluminum molds that needed to be re worked. Thy had smashed part of it in the press and needed to be repaired. Well it was black dyed hard coat 3 I think and we could not get it off with an angle grinder. It took a lot of work. I doubt it's that hard but I would Imagian that on a hard use item like a knife that it would be some type of hard anodize as the color anodize does come off easy.
Your best bet would be to call around to different plating companies and have them strip and re anodize it in the color you want. But be warned that hard coat anodizing adds material we always counted on around .003 per surface. If it's just a color anodize then it does not add anything as it's just a surface treatment.
 
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JTknives said:
There are many different kinds of anodizing, if it's just a color anodizing the it will come off but if it's a dyed hard coat anodize good luck. That stuff is very hard and even sanding won't touch it. Back in the day we got these huge aluminum molds that needed to be re worked. Thy had smashed part of it in the press and needed to be repaired. Well it was black dyed hard coat 3 I think and we could not get it off with an angle grinder. It took a lot of work. I doubt it's that hard but I would Imagian that on a hard use item like a knife that it would be some type of hard anodize as the color anodize does come off easy.
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Well that's encouraging... haha. I wonder, is there a chemical that would remove it?
 
Anodizing is basically aluminum oxide aka the same stuff on sand paper. Thy build up the oxide level and then dye the oxide layer and then seal it. It's designed to be tough if it's the hard coat. I made a lot of parts for electron microscopes and other optical equipment and it was all just color anodized flat black.

If you don't mind me asking how did you end up with a purple knife and not know about it befor hand.
 
JTknives said:
Anodizing is basically aluminum oxide aka the same stuff on sand paper. Thy build up the oxide level and then dye the oxide layer and then seal it. It's designed to be tough if it's the hard coat. I made a lot of parts for electron microscopes and other optical equipment and it was all just color anodized flat black.

If you don't mind me asking how did you end up with a purple knife and not know about it befor hand.
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Good question. I agreed to the trade (seeing a low light picture that didn't show the purple) and then was informed after the guy shipped it that it was purple. He was like "I shipped you the knife, you're going to love the purple." And I was like, "Um... what?"

I didn't fight him on it though because I figured I could remove it fairly easily... which seems like it might not be true.
 
I'd list it here.
Someone will love that anodizing if it's in great shape.
Then pick up a new one. I see a few on the usual sites.
 
Your going to love the purple, lol
I edited my first post to say that you might want to call a few plating company's and have them strip and re anodize the scales. I know it can be done, don't know the cost. Normaly anodizing is not very expensive but that's done in a batch.
 
If the handle is aluminum, and it's really anodized, lye-based oven cleaner will remove the anodizing.
Look for "sodium hydroxide" as the main ingredient.
If it is anodized aluminum, the handle will be soft after the anodizing is removed.
I don't recommend experimenting on an expensive knife with the information I just gave you....
 
You might try to Whinks (sp?) Rust Remover if it's just an electro anodized titanium scale. Ferric Chloride might do the same?
 
I've used oven cleaner on aluminum before, worked great but needed a bit of surface finish work afterwards. If it's titanium instead then a great product I use is Multi-Etch.

~Chip
 
WValtakis said:
If it's titanium instead then a great product I use is Multi-Etch.

~Chip
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Pretty much the same stuff as the Whinks Rust Remover I mentioned, although I think the multi-etch is a little more expensive. If I recall, Whinks has hydrofluoric acid in it. Just a cautionary note to the OP, it will lightly etch the surface. Not sure what kind of pivot or bearing system Chavez uses, but if there are any polished surfaces around the pivot, you'll want to mask them off with some nail polish or something to keep from roughing up the machined surface. It's not a deep etch by any means, but it will likely affect smoothness to a degree until the knife wears back in.
 
That's a full titanium anodized handle....3 ways to remove the anodizing:

1. scotch brite wheel....works, but not recommended as its an abrasive and may change up the look & finish.

2. Wink rust remover (available at most hardware stroes). Soak in a bath of Wink for a short period...you will see the colors "wash away" then the chemical goes to work on the Titanium. Once you see the piece start to fizz like an alka-seltzer tab you are done. Wear a mask as it gives off some nasty fumes.

3. Multi-Etch - this is the best way, but most expensive. ME is rather pricey, but acts similar to wink.....but is designed specifically for prepping surfaces for anodizing. ME also helps produce more even and vibrant colors when anodizing in the future. Similar to Wink, submerge in a bath (cold) for 5-10min (until all coloring is removed). You can also heat up the ME to speed up the process. Wear a mask, it also has some nasty fumes.

Personally I use Wink as a quick remover if I plan of giving a blasted or tumbled finish. If you are going to re-anodize...or anodize a lot anyways, get you some Multi Etch...its amazing stuff.

Best of luck!
 
Thanks everyone, some great ideas! I'm so nervous to mess with the pivot system... but I'll give it a go if the knife doesn't sell on the forum.
 
Multi-Etch would be my first choice with the precautions above but you can also use a metal polish like Flitz.
 
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