Help!!! Rtak ii krinkle coat peeling off!!

B

Blitzkreig

Joined
Feb 18, 2011
Messages
25
I know I'm new to the forums, but i just bought a ontario rtak ii from budk.com i only used it one day lightly battoning through wood and after cleaning the knife after with hot water and then oiling the knife after dryed i noticed the (krinkle) finish was peeling off and flaking off i dont know what to do because it looking like normal wear and tear but its a freaking brand new knife and it looks like a 15 year old knife now!!!! help me figure out what i need to do! thanks in advanced
 
Just go with it. No coating is indestructible. It adds a little character and the more you use it the better it will look. Keep it oiled. Just my opinion.:thumbup:
 
Not a big deal. You don't want an unused looking knife anyway. However, when you say "peeling off" I'm not sure what you mean. Are we talking about normal wear and tear or something strange? Pics?
 
Don't worry. This is normal wear and tear. Just keep up with regular maintenance and keep the knife oiled up and it'll be fine. If you don't take care of it, it may end up looking like this: linky
 
ok if i literally scratched the finish with my fingernail it feels soft as in not baked on to the knife and when i scratch it it comes right off and at the edge of the blade it is already looking as if ive used hard for like at least a year. by the edge its no finish what so ever now.
 
and if i just go with it and let it wear ALL the finish off, what should i do to the blade then? cant i just krylon spray paint the blade after all coating wears off since it coating comes off soo easy?
 
actually, yes - you can hit it with krylon.
you can also use some citrusol and remove all the coating from the blade now and cold blue or patina it -- or pull the scales, strip the whole thing, degrease it with acetone, then paint with krylon and bake - cure it. (350 for 45 minutes)
 
ok truth be told, i used winchester break free solvent to get the wood and sap off the blade then i rinsed under hot water then i noticed how badly the finish was coming off. p.s. don't call me dumb because ontario's website says you can use mineral spirits and cleaning solvents on there blades to clean them.
 
Break free is pretty rough stuff but I'd think that coating should be a little tougher than that. I'd strip off the rest of the coating with Jasco and then patina it.
 
What oil did you use? it could be removing the coating. The reason I ask is because you say its soft and you can scratch it with you nail.

You really don't need to oil a coated blade anyways, that's why its coated.

If you remove the coating or simply wear it off you can patina it or just keep it clean and lightly oiled. I think more often than not people over think the care of a carbon blade, its really not that much trouble.
 
Blitzkreig said:
ok truth be told, i used winchester break free solvent to get the wood and sap off the blade then i rinsed under hot water then i noticed how badly the finish was coming off. p.s. don't call me dumb because ontario's website says you can use mineral spirits and cleaning solvents on there blades to clean them.
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Brian Sargent said:
Break free is pretty rough stuff but I'd think that coating should be a little tougher than that. I'd strip off the rest of the coating with Jasco and then patina it.
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Not sure about Winchester break free but I've use Break Free CLP on coated blades before and I've never had any problems. Maybe the Winchester stuff has a stronger solvent.

Krylon will eventually wear off. Patina is a good way. Your other option is Duracoat.
 
okay and wow all you guys are so smart at this stuff!! thanks! and not to sound dumb but what is patina? what does it look like? and how would i "patina" a rtak II? p.s. so i could strip the rest of the finish off with acetone just rubbed on the blade then i could krylon spray paint it and put it in my oven for 45mins at 350 degrees???
 
aznpos531 said:
Not sure about Winchester break free but I've use Break Free CLP on coated blades before and I've never had any problems. Maybe the Winchester stuff has a stronger solvent.
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There is one type that will dissolve plastic (gun scrubber solvent) and another that is a cleaner/lube. The solvent is like automotive brake cleaner. Works great for heavy cleaning but you need to use oil after you use it.
 
also ive heard you cant "bake" a new finish on a blade if your baking the blade at a higher temp then the metal was tempered at? but thats only what ive heard..
 
Blitzkreig said:
okay and wow all you guys are so smart at this stuff!! thanks! and not to sound dumb but what is patina? what does it look like? and how would i "patina" a rtak II? p.s. so i could strip the rest of the finish off with acetone just rubbed on the blade then i could krylon spray paint it and put it in my oven for 45mins at 350 degrees???
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Patina is natural oxidation from acids ... like fruit and meat. Gives a nice used effect. Google it and find some youtube videos. Spray paint will come right of and you will be right where you started.
 
Blitzkreig said:
also ive heard you cant "bake" a new finish on a blade if your baking the blade at a higher temp then the metal was tempered at? but thats only what ive heard..
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Look up duracoat. Good stuff. I'd leave it stripped though. Save the cash and beat on that thing!
 
I wouldn't bake any blade until I contacted a knifemaker and confirmed it wouldn't effect the blade temper. 350 for 45 minutes might have some effect.

Patina is a chemical reaction of the steel when exposed to a acid. It will turn the blade a dark blue/black/gray depending on the acid used and steel. My usual method is to use a lemon. I warm the blade under hot tap water then rub the lemon over the blade, I let it sit for 30-60 seconds then rinse and repeat until I reach a darkness I like.
 
okay cool. you guys are extremely helpful!! okay so i want to just take off scales and patina the blade with the lemon as you explained but 1. will "patina" last? 2. is it better stronger longer lasting than other things? 3. do i need to remove ALL finishing of the blade in order to patina it?
 
Leave the finish under the scales for rust protection. Patina will rub off but it is easy to redo ... just keep using it. Green wood will also patina.
 
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