Help sharpening my benchmade 943?

P

Paragon Fury

Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
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Hey guys first time posting here sorry if this is covered somewhere els I coulden't find it if so.
So I'm looking to get into sharpening my own knives pocket/kitch knives ect and i understand the concept of a blade but my problems I"m having is with serrations on a knife no mater where I have looked so far or who I talk to basicly, I find someone who uses so said method lets call it method#1 to sharpen serrations and the next place I look says always use said method #2 and never sharpen using method#1 ect... so I keep finding complete contradictions on mothods to sharpen serrations I'm not looking for the best be all end all method I just want a way to sharpen serrations without destroying my knife(s) and being nice and sharp thanks guys :)
 
When I would sharpen serrations, I would generally use a diamond or ceramic triangle stone and match the bevel to raise a burr, then knock that down by hitting the back side of the blade lightly with said stone.
Now rinse and repeat but this time with lighter pressure.

Go until happy with your results.

Welcome aboard. Check out the maintenence and tinkering section too
 
NJBillK said:
When I would sharpen serrations, I would generally use a diamond or ceramic triangle stone and match the bevel to raise a burr, then knock that down by hitting the back side of the blade lightly with said stone.
Now rinse and repeat but this time with lighter pressure.

Go until happy with your results.

Welcome aboard. Check out the maintenence and tinkering section too
Click to expand...

so are you saying like "Cut" down the ceramic while sliding across all of the serrations at whatever angle I'm trying to sharpen it them to?
 
Nope, move just the rod from spine to edge within the confines of each one serration individually... Doing this instead of a sawing motion with your stone will keep you from convexing the edge and potentially "ease" sharpening later on.
-This is one of the drawbacks to a serrated edge, when they dull, they require more attention to sharpen each small portion as its own cutting edge.

Though some say to just sharpen the back (flat) side of them to remove the dulled section and move up the serrations to new material.
-While this may sharpen the serrations, it will eventually lessen the depth of them until it is all one straight edge.
Mind you, that is a Long time away.
 
Spyderco triangular sharpener and they have video for serrations. Its how I sharpen them and works great.
 
NJBillK said:
Nope, move just the rod from spine to edge within the confines of each one serration individually... Doing this instead of a sawing motion with your stone will keep you from convexing the edge and potentially "ease" sharpening later on.
-This is one of the drawbacks to a serrated edge, when they dull, they require more attention to sharpen each small portion as its own cutting edge.

Though some say to just sharpen the back (flat) side of them to remove the dulled section and move up the serrations to new material.
-While this may sharpen the serrations, it will eventually lessen the depth of them until it is all one straight edge.
Mind you, that is a Long time away.
Click to expand...

so if sharpening from the flat side of the serrasion it would not ruin the knife at worst over a long period of time it would just turn into a strait blade? I'm I understanding this correct?
 
Paragon Fury said:
Would the spiderco sharpener work for any serratided blades even non spiderco kives?
Click to expand...

Yep!

I have one and it's my go-to sharpener for just about all my knives, plus a diafold dmt stone. And a Lansky lawn and garden stone for my machetes.
 
nick21 said:
Yep!

I have one and it's my go-to sharpener for just about all my knives, plus a diafold dmt stone. And a Lansky lawn and garden stone for my machetes.
Click to expand...
oooh okay, well my knife is half serrasions and half flat blade so how would usng the spiderco tri angle sharpener work withboth of those two combined on my one blade?
 
If you have a significant amount of edge damage and rolls, you can also use the corner of the triangular stones from a sharpmaker on the flat part of your knife. Using such a small contact area will concentrate your pressure on one Very small spot and increase the cut that is experienced from the stone.
-Think of it as pushing down on a knife edge and pushing down on a flat head screwdriver. The smaller surface will apply seemingly more pressure, but only since it is on a more minute area. (Though this may result in the stone loading faster, or filling with removed steel faster.)

For your time into the sharpening end of the knife ownership, you can do Much worse than a sharpmaker. Just learn the stone, see how each one works for you and keep your blade edge and knife spine aligned vertically.
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For all intents and purposes, use the flat for the flat edge, the pointy side of the stone for the pointy edge of the knife.
- To address what you asked for clarification on earlier.
Yes, I did mean that you can sharpen the back side of the knife, serrationsand all on a flat stone. Over time, usually years of regular maintenance, you will see a shrinking of the size of the serrations.
The flat part of your smooth edge will still be sharpened on both sides, as a "V" edge. Though the serrations will only be sharpened on the back side and have the burr removed from the front, on the inside of the serrations with a diamond stone/file or ceramic stone/rod.
 
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