Help Sharpmaker and ESEE!!

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Ellocomotive

Joined
Nov 6, 2010
Messages
67
:mad: Argh!

I'm seriously going insane. I've had the Sharpmaker for about 2 months now, and it seems as if I have no idea what the hell I'm doing. Previously I was using a Smith's 3-1 sharpening system which had a stone and it's own set of fine ceramic rods. I could never get to razor sharpness, but I got my blades to a respectable state.

However, since trying to learn the sharpmaker system, I haven't made any headway at all-in fact, I've dulled my knives to the point where it's like there's a slip and slide on my fingernail and Rowen's invited.

I previously thought that I was applying downward pressure against the stone, so I fixed that. Then I tried applying pressure "just so" laterally against the stones. Finally I decided to lay off pressure altogether and just pull back:, to no avail.:barf:

R.A.T. Pack and others, what the hell am I doing wrong?
 
Or did you get the video? They didn't all come with it.

There is lateral pressure involved, about 3 lbs. which is a kind of a trial and error thing. You don't want to push hard against it, but you don't want to just rest the knife there. Remember we are removing metal from the blade.

One other thing. When you got it did you rub the corners of the grey stones against each other to wear them down a little bit? They recommend that.

I used the Sharpmaker I just got for Christmas on my Izula, 3, 4 and 6 and got them nice and sharp and did one of the wife's kitchen knives tonight and got it scary sharp.

Hang in there! Glad to help if we can.
 
Ah, forgot to mention that I did in fact watch the video-even all the drill bit and cuticle scissor parts. (Followed instructions accordingly, including the rubbing stones part) Have to admit I thought it was pretty funny. The process seems simple enough, but I'm guessing somewhere along the way I'm tweaking something to ill effect.

I can get an awesome shine on the edge, but it looks like that's about it.
 
Hmmmm, send me your knives and $300 and I will try it. If I can't get them sharp, I will send all your knives back, unless there is something in there I want.

What model ESEEs are you trying to sharpen?
 
just make sure you keep the knife completely vertical and use a light slicing motion. you don't have to go super fast. are you alternating sides with each stroke? if so, maybe try doing one side then the other for more consistency.

edit: all of my esee knives are new so i haven't had to sharpen the 1095 yet but i would imagine it wouldn't be any harder than s30v.
 
i only have trouble with my sharpmaker when i come against a blade that needs a complete reprofiling. The key is to practice, grab some cheapo knives, dull them on some cardboard and just find your rhythm and pressure on the cheapos and you will get the hang of it. took me about 10-12 knives to get it just right. Now i can get a good polish on the edge, not a mirror polish just a significant reduction in the scratch pattern.
 
Well last night I tried the izula, it's sharp (not as much as I would like) except for the point where the belly begins.

Today I attempted to sharpen my HEST-pretty substandard results. I'll try doing strokes on one side first, and let you fellas know how it turns out.
 
Ellocomotive said:
Well last night I tried the izula, it's sharp (not as much as I would like) except for the point where the belly begins.

Today I attempted to sharpen my HEST-pretty substandard results. I'll try doing strokes on one side first, and let you fellas know how it turns out.
Click to expand...

This means you aren't following the edge properly. You need to make sure you tilt the knife so the cutting edge that is being sharpened is always facing down. so basically you need to tilt the knife as you bring to down the stones on the sharpmaker. I still have issues like that from time to time if i'm not paying enough attention.
 
Have you tried taking a sharpie to the edge to make sure you're hitting the edge? Also if you're taking already sharp knives to a stone designed to sharpen dull edged knives you may just be dulling your knife. (Ie taking a razor to a coarse stone)
 
ditto the sharpie method. i've never had a problem getting my esee knives shaving sharp with the sharpmaker. i put more pressure on it than the weight of the knife itself, similar to say cutting a lemon. hard to describe it but it's definitely not light the way you would with stropping. especially with the ultra-fine stones, it gets really shaving sharp to the point i don't even strop anymore.
 
Actually tbh I am having the same trouble, but only with my esee hest [one that was still made by rowen]. I have heard these are hand sharpened which may have thrown me off the edge angles and thrown away countless hours, before just saying f' it and tried to turn it to a 30 degree back bevel and 40 degree, but the relief for the edge is so high I had a lot of trouble, especially getting through that AMAZING thick coat. I have never trouble with any other knives that went dull, I have gotten them back enough to ALMOST cut toilet paper, but thin paper have been easily done without trouble at all. So your not the only one with some issues. I would say, I wish I just sent my knife into a knife sharpener instead of ruining my sharpmaker rods.
 
Use a Sharpie Marker to make sure you are at the edge. You may need to reprofile. The Sharpmaker is not good for reprofiling. Essentially you need to remove metal to thin the edge. The Sharpmaker is a good sharpener when minimal metal needs removed.
 
phrenik said:
I would say, I wish I just sent my knife into a knife sharpener instead of ruining my sharpmaker rods.
Click to expand...

how did you ruin the rods? i was under the impression that the fine (the white ceramic) and the ultra-fine stones will pretty much last a lifetime with proper use. the medium (brown stone) will wear much quicker - all these according to the video anyway...just curious.

they will turn black from the steel worn away off the knife and once loaded up won't cut as much and will need to be cleaned...again, just curious and maybe i/we can help.
 
As perviously stated you may need to clean them, they hardly work if loaded with steel. Just about all ESEE products are 40 inclusive. Go slowly and focus on keeping the knife perfectly perpendicular to the stones. I typically push diagonally against the stones, and always use the flat sides. I gradually back off the pressure as I go so towards the end I am using almost no pressure, mainly just the weight of the blade. Hope some of this helps.
 
I've had the sharpmaker for numerous months. I also had some trouble sharpening my kitchen knives that were very dull. My other folder and fixed blades were easier b/c they already had a decent sharpness.
In addition to moving the blade vertically, I also purchased the diamond rods. Those rods made a huge difference in the very dull knives and actually the blades were semi-sharp after using them. Now I just use the gray and white stones. Its a good system, but I also strop my blades after using the sharpmaker and its ultra fine stones. Do ten normal pressure strokes on each side maintaing that vertical downward strokes. Maybe shoot a video to all of us and we can see what you are doing wrong. You must be doing something wrong. This system will have your knives slicing paper at angle cut, but it won't be anything like the factory edges that some of the edges come with.
 
Thanks for all the help fellas, I'm certain I may have a handle on it now. Just for context, I have tried the sharpie method, and wash the stones periodically. I have to admit I was kind of thrown back when I realized I was doing a better job on my stones than on the Sharpmaker-it should be easier.

So I think I'm going to reprofile the Hest's edge, there are many nick, chips and rolls in the edge, and I'd like a clean one. What grit sandpaper should I use with the Sharpmaker? I've never done this trick before.
 
I just got my Sharpmaker in Monday. My ESEE 4 is shaving sharp again after I've been beating the hell out of it batoning firewood. My 4 has some character to it now as it looks used. Ha ha!

I've cut all kinds of things with my 4. From meat and veggies to firewood, rope and pipe insulation with the aluminum backing. Basically any excuse to use it!

As some others have pointed out. You just need to make sure you are following the contour of the belly of the blade through your downward stroke on the stones. While keeping it as perpendicular to the base as possible.

I'm a knife newb myself. With the Smith's diamond stones freehand I just can't seem to get that razor edge. Sharpmaker? No problem!
 
Davor said:
I also had some trouble sharpening my kitchen knives that were very dull. My other folder and fixed blades were easier b/c they already had a decent sharpness.
In addition to moving the blade vertically, I also purchased the diamond rods. Those rods made a huge difference in the very dull knives and actually the blades were semi-sharp after using them.
Click to expand...

That's good to hear. I have the Diamond Rods on order.....currently being held up by out of stock items at a bigger knife seller online.........i'm starting to get pissed.....waiting on some Blade Tech Tech Loks (one large one small) and a Forschner kitchen knife cover. I called them and contemplated canceling it to get my order out but this way I'll get a package next week also.
 
Ellocomotive said:
Thanks for all the help fellas, I'm certain I may have a handle on it now. Just for context, I have tried the sharpie method, and wash the stones periodically. I have to admit I was kind of thrown back when I realized I was doing a better job on my stones than on the Sharpmaker-it should be easier.

So I think I'm going to reprofile the Hest's edge, there are many nick, chips and rolls in the edge, and I'd like a clean one. What grit sandpaper should I use with the Sharpmaker? I've never done this trick before.
Click to expand...

I'd say a 300 maybe? It really depends on how deep the chips are. How are you planning to use the sandpaper?
 
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